IHC 54 R120 Brakes

can White Post Restoration refurb master cylinders as well, or do they just do the wheel cylinders?

I Googled the name and apparently they do brake cylinders. There was no limiting description so.......
Maybe it might be worth checking into the cost and compare it to NAPA. A good OEM system with modern brake fluid could last for decades.
I think that a little research on the Internet might find someone who does all of the lines and hoses and sells it as a kit . I bought a MASTERCOOL hydraulic flare tool and all of the RIDGID benders to do this sort of job just right. I'm fairly sure that several vehicles could be done for less than the cost of tools which neared A grand.
If this Binder Guy was close, I would do his lines for free, he buys the material.

When removing the brake line from the master cylinder, be careful not to damage that line...it has some tight bends that you'll not likely duplicate, bending it by hand. A tubing bender tool might be good for that job.

I agree with B72.
Most of this stuff is 80% planning and 20% doing. It should be mentioned here, If one of the steel lines gets kinked is should be replaced. The line has lost its ability to withstand pressure and will most certainly fail.
I like to add residual check valves into the brake system. These residual check valves keep just a little pressure in the system and this is another important step in keeping moisture out. You will be pleasantly surprised at the much improved brake response. These residual check valves are a must install where the master cylinder is near, at or below the level of the wheel cylinders. Your Binder L,R,S series qualify. There cannot be a good argument against using them.
There are lots of bunk-house BS stories about silicone brake fluid. SBF is often a misunderstood product. It can be truthfully said that it does not mix with regular brake fluid. That is the good part. The bad part is that the regular BF will continue to absorb moisture and contribute to corrosion unless it is totally removed and replaced with your choice. SBF is able to find any place in your system that is less than 100% perfect, but then, I would want to know where that might be and correct it. Never shake up the container of silicone brake fluid. Bubbles will be introduced into the SBF and it can take hours if not a full day for the bubbles to rise and clear. If bubbles, in any fluid are introduced into the brake system, the brake peddle will appear "spongy". SBF will not harm the paint. SBF is inert and does not damage the soft components in the brake system.
When bleeding the brakes, start with the one farthest from the master cylinder, probable the RR, then the LR, RF and finally the LF. Be gentile don't pound the heck out of the system. Mad-man pumping will not accomplish anything positive.

I used nickel-copper alloy brake lines on my KB project. It is sold online under various brand names and you can get it on ebay as well. I bought a 25' roll which was more than enough for my truck. It costs a bit more, but it MUCH easier to flare and bend compared to normal steel lines, and it will never rust out.

X2 on what Nikki said earlier. If you are at a point where your master cylinder is rotted & rusted, the rest of the system is not far behind. It's best to bite the bullet and replace all the hydraulics at one time, otherwise you will be doing additional repairs when the next component blows out, and potentially leaving you in a bad situation when the pedal goes to the floor when you are on the road!

There's a supplier link in this thread for nickel-copper alloy brake lines.
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2420

There's a supplier link in this thread for nickel-copper alloy brake lines.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

FWIW - That's the source I used, too.

Wow Guys Thanks For the Overwhelming Responses! Trust me I do not want to drive this baby on the road with out proper breaks. I will post a new Tread with picture for you all to enjoy!

Thanks,

Justin

I had a problem like that i hit the brakes and it slammed into the floor and wasnt braking very well i took off the transmission access panel and the brake pedal had come off its joint, i put it back on and put a thicker carpenter key in and now i dont have any braking problems. hope this helps

You guys were correct in the corrosion. I replaced the master cylinder. and an now working on replacing all the wheel cylinders. as well as break lines. quite the project.

Thanks