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6 volt coil

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 1:39 pm
by Bobby K1
OK ; we have KB1 with good wiring, rebuilt fuel pump ( Then and Now ) . Had issues while driving at a steady 40/45 mph where the engine would act as though someone was turning off the ignition switch or that the fuel was being chocked off. This would be overcome by depressing the accelerator further and it would clear up and continue running correctly.

Had the carburetor rebuilt and when installed it was worse. Returned and had it redone. The carburetor now seams very good. Still get a stumble and am now looking at intermittent loss of spark from the coil.

I hate to just throw money at it but a coil seams like an inexpensive maybe. WHAT I DON’T KNOW IS IF IT HAS OR NEEDS A RESISTOR.

Thanks
BK

Re: 6 volt coil

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 2:48 pm
by cornbinder89
Most 6 volt applications with less than 8 cyl use a coil that does not need a resistor. A Standard- Blue streak number would be UC 14/ UC14x Borg/ Warner E1 or E-5.
Most time if it is spark, more throttle will make a miss worse not better, so I don't think that is the problem. I would however take a good look at the vacuum advance set up.

Re: 6 volt coil

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 7:36 pm
by 53R110
Check your fuel pickup tube. Just cleaned mine on my R110. It acted like it was running out of fuel. There was stuff in the bottom part of the tube.

Re: 6 volt coil

PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 4:56 am
by manicmechanic
Don't overlook the condenser , inexpensive

Re: 6 volt coil

PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 7:36 am
by shoebone
When coils go bad they tend to get too warm to touch .... have a feel next time !!

Re: 6 volt coil

PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2019 7:15 pm
by Bobby K1
OK; Worked on the truck at my son’s house. I brought tools but as always never enough or the right ones. Affirmed that the fuel line from the tank was clear and reattached the line to the rebuilt fuel pump. The engine ran for about a minute then died. Removed the pump and took it to THEN AND NOW and talked to the person that rebuilt it. He tested it and confirmed a good rebuild.
Clamped a rubber fuel line from a can of gas to the intake side of the pump and insured pickup and output. The engine attempted to start but did not. I raised the level on the carburetor float as it looked very low. No start again. I got under the truck to check all the fuel line connections and discovered a crack in the flare nut that connected the line from the tank. OH BOY..this had to be it( sucking air and allowing fuel to return to the tank). Could find no gasoline leak in the line..WELL WHY WOULD I..IT WAS UNDER VACUUM. Picked up a new flare nut, cut and flared the line, reattached and attempted a start..didn’t. There was fuel at the carb. Could find no leaks in the lines. Ignition needs a look see.

The spark at the contact points seemed non existent although there was spark from the coil high voltage wire but seemed weak. I cleaned the point contacts with a tungsten file and gaped them.The coil seemed a bit more than warm but not hot. Maybe this wasn’t good as we only had the engine running for less than a minute. A trip to our neighborly Autozone found us a coil and condenser. I was very tempted to just try the condenser but what the heck I had the coil in hand, the existing coil was somewhat rusted under the clamp , was old and not original so I changed both.

It fired up. I fine tuned the idle and went for a test ride. I think we’re all set.

I sure don’t feel like much of a mechanic but we got the job done ( I hope ). Somebody on this site has a saying that he’d rather have tools he doesn’t need than to need tools he doesn’t have..OH HOW TRUE!