Rear End Ratio's.


The old and reliable.

AZD

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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:37 am

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

I made shims from aluminum pop cans, and gaskets from high quality linnen paper that looks close to the original stuff. I think the shims typically are placed only on one side as it’s the total adjustment that matters, not a side-to-side balance.

Rusty Driver
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Post Tue Nov 20, 2018 10:51 am

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

What adjustments do the shims make? Will wheels not rotate if these are not shimmed correctly?

AZD

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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:11 am

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

The shims adjust the rear axle bearings much the same as the nut on the front spindle. The difference is that (on the half-ton only) both sides are adjusted at once. Inside the differential, by the spider gears, is a chunk of steel called a thrust block. It fits between both axles shafts and transfers side loads between the two. This is why you only need shims on one side (doesn’t matter which). Also, you need to make the shim adjustment with both back wheels up. If one side is resting down, especially at an angle, the side that is up will be forced too far outward and the adjustment will be way off.

Rusty Driver
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Post Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:42 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

Thanks to all for this great information. I will be ordering some shims from McMaster.

Rusty Driver
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Post Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:01 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

The numbers on the head of the pinion are 11-46. Those numbers are on the very end where the nut and washer hold the yoke on.
Are those the correct numbers? If i divide 46 into 11 I come up with 4.18.
Are the pinion seals and the seals on the outer ends available?
I think they were not called seals back then but that is what I call them.
I have the rear end setting on jack stands and with the yoke turned down oil comes out.

I am getting close to being able to put the axles back under the frame.
I blasted the frame today and going to power coated later this week.
Have been working on the cab and fenders rust in the usual place on the fenders where the running boards attach to them.
Steady by jerks is the progress.
Thanks for any help.

Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:15 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

What is "power coated?"
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Jun 18, 2019 9:15 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

yes, you have a 4.18 rear gearset.

Rusty Driver
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Post Wed Jun 19, 2019 1:44 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

Powder coating is what I meant to type.

Golden Jubilee
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Post Wed Jun 19, 2019 3:12 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

My ex employer used to use a powder coat finish on the components of the "Lift-U". http://www.lift-u.com/products/transit/lu12/
The problem we had was the plastic coating acted like a plastic bag and trapped moisture. 3/8" steel plate would rust away and fail in about two years.
There were two situations that caused premature corrosion. 1) the steel was not totally cleaned of surface rust. 2) the plastic finish was compromised by a stone chip and road splash could get in next to the metal and get trapped.
If you have any rust hidden between the cross-members and the frame this will become a big problem in the near future. If rust is hiding in any pits in the frame, powder coating is not for you.
My employer changed to RUSTOLEUM paint and this rusting situation went away. Rustoleum paint can be repaired with painting over a scratch, plastic coating cannot be repaired with a simple paint. Three rattle cans of Rustoleum will paint a frame for about $22.00. Powder coating could cost hundreds.
Powder coating is not paint. For those who may not know, the powder system is a very fine plastic dust that sticks to any surface with electrostatic attraction. In this case, the frame is sent through an oven and the heat melts the plastic dust into a continuous surface coating. You could not give me this finish on a frame.
I hope this give anyone who reads it something to think about.
FULL DISCLOSURE: I did have the grill and headlight bezels for my 1940 Ford powder coated with a primer. These components can be zinc alloy castings. When zinc alloys, and what used to be called "pot-metal" ages, it off-gasses. This gas raises the surface finish and leaves pits. This was often seen as pitted and lifting chrome. Paint has difficulty sticking to a zinc alloy, powder primer does not. I had the powder coater heat cycle the grill and bezels five to six times, with other customers parts. At the end of the day, my parts were coated and sent to the oven.
It has been a few years, now, and the finish seems to be holding up. I had never hears of this being done before, so there were some risks involved, for me. I glass beaded the chrome off the new parts before the powder primer was applied. Paint to match the car followed. If this was a fail, I would have been out of pocket more than $1700cdn for these new parts and I would have to replace the parts. Total; $3400cdn. The powder primer was $100.
Attachments
at the neighbours.jpg
BEZEL INSIDE SHOT OF THE BUCKET.jpg
HEADLIGHT BEZEL 2.jpg
grill first test fit.jpg
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Rookie
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Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:25 pm

Post Wed May 26, 2021 10:20 pm

Re: Rear End Ratio's.

Just for my knowledge! :m03104:

The Tooth Count to Ratio!
there are Three ratios available
3.72 : 1
4.18 : 1
5.11 : 1

The Tooth count Pinion to Ring at 4.18 : 1 is 11 to 46
what about the others?

That info would maybe help somebody by identifying some rear ends...
or if someone is thinking about repop some gears :t1809:
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