Recommendation for GRD233 Head Bolts

Then run it til it’s hot, let it cool and re-torque

Do able? yes, would I do it at this point? no. 1) the studs would have to be overly long to allow double nutting to install. 2) long stud will make it hard to pull the head in vehicle should that become needed. 3) there is little to be gained at this point.
You might be able to find a stud installer that could install the correct length studs, either the collet or bearing type would work.
The time to do it is when the engine is apart.

Yup. Always better before assembly. No harm in thinking.

I just don’t get it. Two days parked, no obvious signs of moisture. Third day a decent size drop of antifreeze sitting on manifold flange by #2 cylinder . The moisture trail leads to the area by the head bolt to the left of the vent port. When the head was installed the block was clean, the head milled flat and a new gasket installed with copper sealer.
The threads in the block were clean.

Thinking maybe I gouged the new gasket somehow. OR maybe I’m anal about this as the engine runs fine and no moisture shows during operation. Maybe, if I do it again, I’ll get an assistant so I can place the head gently down with no movement before bolting down. AND maybe I’ll use a different sealer. It just bugs me to see this with a machined head and a new gasket.

Don't blow it out of proportion. If it is not leaking antifreeze into the oil sump, doesn't leak an excessive amount while in storage or operation, then I wouldn't worry about it.
Leaks into the cyl area or oil sump would be a different matter and would require some attention.
Look, these engine don't even have a full contact rear main seal if I am not mistaken, a little seepage on the garage floor isn't worth the cost of making it 100% dry.
You could spend a lot of time and money and still not be 100% leak free. Seal head stud in place, o ring the coolant passages, where do you stop, for a drop or two of antifreeze.

Of course you are right. It’s just one of those things that was fine before and has now changed. I suppose it’s my curiosity as to WHY ?

I just don’t get it. The moisture trail leads to the area by the head bolt to the left of the vent port. \

This points to coolant making it way up the threads and past the bolt. Not a 100% "guilty" but points in that direction. Could even be a crack in the coolant jacket near the bolt hole in the head. Like I said keep it in prospective. If it is minor and you can live with it, than that it was I would do. If it is minor and you want take a chance there are "repairs in a bottle" like Irontite sealers for the cooling system.

I kind of suspect the same thing. I don’t like additives that may have a chance to clog up parts of a cooling system. Maybe, just thinking again, I’ll drain the coolant down, remove that one bolt, dry the receiving threads the best I can and reseal it.

I was looking at a used green diamond on eBay ( not to buy )and observed what appeared to be moisture lines near the head gasket. Don’t know if it’s common or not.

Casting always carry the possibilities of leaks. Add to that years of coolant and water can erode the castings.
Heavy and expensive engines counter this by painting the inside with sealer and running supplemental coolant additives to maintain a sacrificial layer on the inside of the casting, and filters remove casting sand and rust before it builds up.
No harm in an attempt to re-seal the head bolt, but don't be too surprised which ever way it turns out.
You could pressure test the head, but that would require making a "plate" to bolt it too and seal the bottom, then place in a tank and pressurize the coolant passages with air and look for bubbles.
Sealers come in various qualities, and not all are the same.
I have a large Cummins that has a a little seepage from the rear head when cold, or more likely in the transition from ambient to running temp. A new headgasket didn't solve the leak (it was changed due to 3 broken head bolts) and I have no plans to do anything else at this time. The leak is so minor and the amount lost is hard to even notice (but I can see the stain on the block). It could be a little coolant seeping by the wet liner or a minor crack in a bolt hole. As long as it doesn't effect the function of the engine, why spend more time on it? If I had the block out and dis assembled, I would have it machined for the up-dated lower press fit liners, but the loads pay the same whether the engine seeps a little coolant or not.