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GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 2:36 pm
by ks ihc guy
How can I tell which rods are off set? The book says 1,3,5 are offset from 2,4,6. In looking at the rods I cannot see what they mean by offset the guy at the machine shop could not see any difference either. New pistons, new wrist pin bushings, rod bearings and mains.
Thanks for any advise.

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 6:05 pm
by bedrockjon
I don't remember reading anything about being offset, But you did keep them in order when removed from motor, Yes?

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:46 am
by d2crazy
The following info comes from the IHC CT-140 shop manual that covers the HD-213 engine. Pretty sure this will cover the GRD since they use the same connecting rod.
"Cylinder numbers are stamped on a flat space on rod and cap and rods should always be assembled with these numbers toward camshaft side of crankcase."

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2018 11:27 am
by ks ihc guy
They were kept together when removed. I will put them back in with the number to the camshaft side of the engine.
Thanks for the information.
The word offset was throwing me off.

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 1:07 pm
by ks ihc guy
I have screwed up I think. I mounted the timing gear and chain before I mounted to front engine mount. I pulled the gear and chain off put the front mount on then figured/thought I needed to realign the dots on the gear and crank gear. Turned the crank and cam to realigned the dots but I am thinking I need to start all over making sure that #1 is at TDC then go from there. Does the intake Valve on #1 at TDC needs to be closed? Does this sound correct.
Thanks for the help.

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 7:19 am
by dean466
As long as the dots align with each other and the crank and cam centerlines your valve timing will be fine. It is good practice, while everything open and visible to position the crank at TDC on the compression stroke, where both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed. This is the position you will want it in when you install the distributor to establish ignition timing.

Dean

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 10:20 am
by ks ihc guy
Another question on this rebuild. Should the pan gasket cover the rear main rope seals I would think yes but I either installed it wrong or I had the wrong gasket as it does not completely cover the rope seals. All the bolt holes lined up fine the way it is now but I am thinking those rope seals need to be covered by the gasket. Everything is stuck down but it can all be removed if needed. What do the experts say.
Thanks for any information.

Re: GD engine pan gasket

PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 11:02 am
by ks ihc guy
Should the pan gasket when installed cover the rope seals on the rear main? I have it and the pan on but did not notice prior to bolting in down that about half of the rope seals are not covered by the gasket. Everything lined up hole wise so I thought it was good to go. Did not pay close enough attention I guess. Any way any help or information is appreciated.
Thanks Mike.

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 6:11 pm
by Southtowns27
The 214 doesn't have an actual rear main seal. There's an archimedes screw on the crankshaft that pulls the oil back into the sump. Behind the screw is a slinger plate that throws any oil that does make it that far into the groove in the rear main bearing where it drains back into the sump through the tube attached the the main cap.
If you got your gasket kit from Olsen's, DO NOT install the rope into the groove around the slinger plate as per the directions. Ask me how I know....

Re: GD 214 rebuild.

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 8:10 pm
by lbesq
Southtowns27, do I understand correctly, that the instructions from Olsen's is wrong on that particular item? Or did I misread? If instructions are wrong, have you let them know? Thanks sir.