Cab removal

I have no experience with anything IHC K series. Does the side of the "K" cab narrow toward the front like the L&R I am used to?
For more than a few years I have wanted to build a crewcab from two Comfo-Vision Cabs. I was not so sure where to make the cut on the two cabs and have them lime up reasonably well. I am pleased to have found an original IHC crewcab made from 2 IHC Comfo-Vision cabs by an outside non-IHC fabrication shop. IHC supplied the parts and the fab shop added length and doors.
I will be looking forward to following your build-up. I get the feeling you know what you are doing from what you post.
For me, the most difficult part of a big project is getting started. When I decided to put a 6.9 litre V8 Diesel in my "R" the most difficult time was making the cut in the firewall so the cab would clear the engine. After I had this big hole to fill a mild panic set in. It ended well.
I usually make a list of what I want to do and follow up with the changes as the project progresses. I have tried to make a projection of estimated costs. I was close on the R120. My Ford project, not so close.
I hope you are OK with the frog thingee. No harm meant.

I'm new to IH so not sure what a Comfo-Vision cab is?
No problem with the ribbettttt!
Does anyone know an easy way to post pictures from an I- Phone?

comfo-vision cab is what IHC used from 1950 -1956 trucks, L, R, S, series K, KB were not comfo

Slfwilrr, put this in the google search: How to post photos from an Iphone to phpbb3 forums here is one that showed up there: https://www.phpbb.com/community/viewtop ... &t=2457341 You might need to look on that forum for information on our older version of phpBB3 Currently we are using version: 3.0.11

We are currently looking at the most current version to upgrade to.

I am putting a KB-7 cab and fenders on a 69 Chevy C-40 dump truck frame. The Chevy runs, dumps, has good tires, brakes, etc. and a straight 6. Frame width and wheel base are exactly the same! I just pulled the IH cab, three bolts in the side of the frame and one bolt down through the top of the frame on each front cab corner bracket. Fenders have to come off first. In the back, two bolts down through the center bracket, through the cross member. I pulled it apart in this order; bumper, nose assembly, fenders, cab, running boards. As I got the parts off, I could see how to get the next ones off. I cut the rivet heads off on the running boards with a torch, and while they were hot, drove them out with a tapered punch. They were the most difficult as the battery box and the brake booster were in the way.
Believe it or not, most of the hardware came right apart after spraying with a good break-free lube. I also had to make a template for all of the holes in the frame to bolt all these parts back up. It is working pretty well. I had to remove and custom bend the shifter and have to fab in a fuel tank as there is a cross member right where the IH fuel tank used to be. Also have to fab up steering, brake and clutch linkage. And I am unsure how to get my 6 volt instrument cluster to work in a 12 negative ground system. Suggestions?

Brianz, you need senders that will communicate With those vintage gauges. As for running on 12v there are some things available to reduce 12 to 6. You might look to replacement gauges that will fit the same hole. Someone will remember the brand, I do not.

^^yup^^^ either put in newer gauges, or you need the original senders from the old motor,

I had a 47 Ferd panel which used King Seely like IHC, it was easy to plumb the oil sender into the block of the 305 chebbie motor,

the temp sender was another story, it bottomed out everywhere I tried to install it, they are almost 2" long,

Amp gauge doesn't care works with any voltage, and gas tank sender needs to be king seely, after market 1940s Ferd truck are Supposed to work, I don't know if they do,

I have an original Ferd one in my 49 KB-1 panel, it reads fine

Got the cab on both trucks removed and yes there are only 3 cab/frame mounts on KB6's and KB7's. They are setting on a jig I built so when i start cutting into them they will stay straight and true.
My plan is to cut off the back of the best cab just an inch or so behind the door jambs. On the second cab I'll also cut the back of the cab and then the front at the firewall. I'll then split the cab down the center so I can widen the front to the width of the first cab at the back of the doors and attach the back sides to the cab back that I cut from the first cab. The real difficult part will be getting the roof filled in and all aligned. It'll definitely challenge my metal working skills. I also don't want the back set of doors and openings to have the "windshield pillar pitch so the openings and the doors will take a lot of work to "square" them off. It'll take 4 doors to make the 2 back doors.

I wish I knew how to post pictures but since I can't figure it out on this forum anyone interested can find them on FB under "International Harvester trucks and parts group.

Also if any of you have any suggestions I'd appreciate your input

check out how this guy did his Diamond T, he made rear doors suicide,

The Diamond T is really nice and what I'm shooting for. The only difference is I don't want to have the rear doors the same as the front, doesn't look like something that would have been made by the manufacturer. It won't take a lot of work to square the doors because I have an extra set to cut the tops from and will just cut out he angle and weld on the other door top reversed. The real work will be squaring off the door opening to match the door.