KB3 Build Advice

Hi, I am new to this forum but I see that it has a wealth of knowledge. I am building a 48 KB3 and I have put a Chevy 454 in it. Yes it was a very tight fit and hand building headers that fit was quite the task. I used a SM465 4-speed transmission. My goal with this truck is to keep it a dually and build a new flat bed with incorporated welder/generator, tool boxes, fuel take, and oxy-acetylene kit. This will be a old school functional service truck and pipeline welding rig.

I am looking for advice on the front axle. Keeping the original steering gear is fine with me but I want disc brakes and 8-lug hubs. Is there any hubs and brake systems that will fit that I can find at a junk yard or purchase from a auto parts store? I can get bearings from a local bearing house in virtually any size...Any help would be greatly appreciated.

you will more than likely need different axles, in my opinion. Look for something that is very close to width needed, spring perches can be moved, drive shaft and ends can be remade. Just my opinion. Others will have more and better advice.

The front axle isn't esp stout by todays std. Between the V-8 and the welder placing some added weight on the front axle, you might need to consider an upgrade. Even the -6 and -7 axle is only good for around 6K lbs, depending on the wheelbase, it isn't hard to reach its limit.

You fit that monster motor in without steering column interference?

Has anyone done a front axle swap to and 8 lug? If so, what axle was used? Yes, the engine and headers clear all the steering gear but it is a tight fit. Still have about 1" of clearance all around. The origional plan was to twin turbo it, but there is not enough room.

I have done a few axle swaps. My favorite route is to buy a matching set of DANA 60 axles from the same truck. You can have your disc brakes and 4X4. An NVG 241c transfer case could fit your GM driveline.
I bought a Ford/DANA 60 set. The front is a DANA 60 high pinion from a 1997 F350. The rear is a DANA 60 from an ECONOLINE E350. Both axles have disc brakes. These axles measure wider than the OEM IHC axles for my final project. It is a 1953/4 R crewcab.
If you are buying an axle combination that may be too wide, the track width can be corrected by using positive offset wheels. I prefer the RAM wheels because Dodge stayed with 8 X 6.5 inch and
did not change to the metric bolt pattern.
Ford up to and including 1997 F250/350 had 8 X 6.5 inch bolt pattern. The Econoline stayed with this pattern for another two years. By 1998 all Ford F250 and F350 had changed to 8 X 170 millimetre.
Dodge/RAM did not stay with 16 inch wheels. My 2002 RAM came with 16 inch OEM. I changed to 2010 RAM 17 inch for a better look. The tire height was increased about .5 inch.
My son's L110 Shorty has DANA 40 axles from a 1997 Ram 1500. We bought those axles knowing the bolt surface to bolt surface was much wider than the original 66 year old crap. We will be partially correcting the track width with 2015 RAM 1500 20 inch wheels. The track width will be increased only a few inches. the big "L" fenders need some tire fill to get away from that wheelbarrow look.
The OEM 20 inch tires for RAM 1500 are 275/60R20. https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/275-60R20.htm You will never see a raised letters or white-wall tire on any of our vehicles.

https://youtu.be/piPq01w1YHo

So what is your steering setup on the dana 60?

The steering design will be dictated by what it takes to make it all work. I get much of many of my ideas from visiting auto-wreckers and having an (up-skirt) look at what the manufacturers have done. I continue to like the SAGINAW power steering boxes because they are made in so may configurations. For my R120 and again my son's L110 Shorty we are using a Saginaw Chevy Van steering box. You main consideration should be matching the pitman arm to the steering requirement. Sometimes the steering box can be moved ahead or behind the tie-rod linkage to change the relationship.
I will include a picture of two of what I did on my R120 then repurposed it for my son's L110.
I made a triangle shaped .250" plate that bolts to the frame and supports the steering box. Tis is some fabrication that may be different foe each application.
I find and get lots of ideas from the custom build off road sites. I often go to the local Ford Recycler for some ideas.
I think it can be said that a DANA 60 set-up could be different from year to year and maker to maker. DANA appear to be making axles specific to the demands of each manufacturer. My RAM 2500 front DANA 60 will not fit a Ford because of the difference in suspensions.
On our L110, I/we are using a reduced number of OEM leaf springs to guide the axles. Air springs with Holland Neway height control valves will maintain the ride height regardless of the loading.
Some pictures.

That is great information, thank you. Do you have any pictures of the front axle installed?

I do not thinkit would be in anyone's better interest to post pictures of the Dana 44 mocked up in our L110. We have retired that Jeep Grande Wagoneer D44s to a storage rack. The axles will ultimately go for a quick sale.
Installing a driven front axle is a matter of finding that happy, non-contact place where the differential centre section does not make contact with the engine or the frame. This can leave the only option of going up. If you use the OEM springs on the top of a Dana 4X4 front axle, this will naturally cause the front of your truck to be higher than it was on the OEM dropped axle. Spring compression and axle travel can be limited by bump stops http://www.energysuspension.com/univers ... strut.html
You will probably have to move the original spring mounts on the replacement axles. I make my own spring perches and others have had success with the spring perches they bought at a trailer supply.
If a person is not ready to add a transfer case and all that goes with it, your truck can be driven as a two wheel drive.
New Process Gear made transfer cases for The Big Three and others. My Cummins Dodge has a 241dld, my son's L110 had a 241c and Ford used the 241. My son's Jeep Wrangler had a lighter duty version of the 241.
There must be a million NVG 241 in the recycling yards. (wrecking yard) Parts are inexpensive and readily available. I found our 241c on Craigslist for $150. I bought my repair parts at a local auto parts store.
There are lots of options available to shorten your 241 and or adapt it to other applications. http://www.jbconversions.com/products/s ... rt_sye.php
I made an adapter to put a 241c on the back of a TH475. The TH475 was never designed to have a t'case
I may be buying a SYE kit from JB Conversions. The rear driveshaft in my son's L110 may be short enough to need the extra length that a SYE can give.