KB5 Nose Removal


The old and reliable.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:27 pm

KB5 Nose Removal

Removed the Nose on the KB5. My brother who owns the truck, flew in for Thanksgiving and I put him to work! LOL

The nose came off as described in the Service Manual, except I pulled the radiator. I drained the radiator, removed the fan shroud, removed the nuts from the upper X-brace, unbolted the lower stay rods at the radiator support, and disconnected the headlight/running light wiring. This was all pretty straight forward.

Pic 1.1 shows the bracket found at the bottom rear of each fender. Two bolts are used which go through the bracket, a rubber biscuit spacer, and then bolt into the nuts found on the inside of the fender. Unbolting was a pain. They were corroded and covered with undercoating. I hit 'em with a little penetrating oil. One snapped off, which was actually the easiest to get off. The other three I had the assistance of my brother ratcheting the nuts while I held the bolt heads with my breaker bar. I used heat on one nut, but did not help much in this instance, so just muscled them off. I will replace them with new bolts, washers, lock washers, nuts and rubber biscuits.

Pic 2.2 shows the upper rear fended bracket found just under the hood hinge. These are 1/2" bolts and backed out with little problem. I undid the top bolts on each side and then re-inserted them and tightened them up just a few turns so the bolts would hold the fender in place until ready to remove the nose. I removed the lower bolts completely. Inner fender remains attached.

Pic 3.3 shows the lower radiator support mounting holes where it sets on top and bolts down through the front frame crossmember. There is a rectangular plate as seen by the rusted area, that sits on top of the radiator support, then 2-bolts go through it and the bolt holes in the radiator support and then into the frame crossmember. Underneath the frame crossmember are 2 rubber mounts which the bolts run through, then there was a large washer, lock washer, and the nut which tightens down the bolt. No problem getting the nuts off, but had to use a hammer and steel dowel/punch to knock the bolts up through the radiator support. They will be replaced as they were badly corroded. The rubber mounts stuck in place, but looked dry rotted and cracked. I will pull these off and look into replacing them with something equivalent.

Pic 4.4 shows the nose off. My brother and I lifted the front of the nose up where it rested slightly on the front bumper. We then each undid the upper rear fender bolts to free up the fenders while supporting the fenders by holding them up so as not to drop down. We then simply lifted the entire nose up and over the front bumper and set it on the ground. IF you had good paint, you would not lift the front of the nose up and then back out the rear bolts as this angles the back top edge of your fender right into the cowl and would tear up the paint. So you would leave the front nose in place, unbolt the rear bolts, and lift up evenly and over the front bumper.

So 10 bolts, 4 stay rod bolts, headlight wiring disconnected, and 2 radiator hoses (I elected to remove the radiator & shroud) and the nose lifts off - pretty simple. Try that with a newer car. LOL

Pic 5.5 & 6.6 shows the engine and other components which are now very accessible. You can see the two bolt holes on the front crossmember where the radiator supports sets on. Hoping this will now give me the needed access to break free the stuck distributor.

Pic 7.7 & 8.8 reveals the rusted out panels at the lower cowl area that are hidden behind the back of the fenders at the rear. I am also guessing I have some rot on the lower cowl on the side where it has been gone over with a wide bead of window sealer. So looks like I will be doing a little metal work to get this back into shape.

Now the nose is off, I can also do some sheet metal work to it and get it cleaned, the rust encapsulated, and then primed/sealed for paint. The next phase will be the new wiring harness installation, new gauge cluster installed, dash controls working, wipers functioning, and getting all my lights rewired and working. These will all be set-up for 12volts.
Attachments
01.1  Rear Fender Attachment.jpg
02.2  Upper Fender Bracket Attachment.jpg
03.3  Radiator Support Attachment.jpg
04.4  Nose Removed.jpg
05.5  Engine.jpg
06.6  Engine.jpg
07.7  Left Side Panel Rot.jpg
08.8  Right Side Panel Rot.jpg
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 4922

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:47 am

Location: Bothell, Washington

Post Sun Nov 26, 2017 1:47 pm

Re: KB5 Nose Removal

good job, other than lower rear fender support brackets, same as pickup,

I found that when dealing with pass thru nut/bolts that I know I will be replacing, I just tighten them till they snap,

a lot easier than trying to unscrew thru petrified undercoat and rust
Gentle Men! you can't fight in here! This is the war room!

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Nov 26, 2017 4:45 pm

Re: KB5 Nose Removal

"other than lower rear fender support brackets, same as pickup"

OK, did not know that. Makes these old Internationals more appealing with the ease of pulling off the nose to work on the engine, whatever make engine might be between the rails.

"I just tighten them till they snap"

That's where experience working on these comes into play. But, if you have never worked on them and are not sure what has to be saved or what can be easily replaced, you do things the hard way. LOL Other times I have snapped things off only to find myself cursing and in a pickle - like exhaust bolts in the head or manifold. I'll be putting all new in where I can this go around.
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 4922

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:47 am

Location: Bothell, Washington

Post Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:36 pm

Re: KB5 Nose Removal

I only break pass thru nuts/bolts, not manifold, or other blind or oddball bolts, but everyone has a different technique, nothing is right or wrong, except if you draw blood,

the pick up lower rear fender bolts go directly into running board, but any coach built would be different,
Gentle Men! you can't fight in here! This is the war room!

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 5171

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:38 pm

Re: KB5 Nose Removal

1st rule of old trucks: the bolt you want to save will break, and those you want to break will spin!

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