Rusty Driver
Posts: 195
Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm
KB5 Nose Removal
The nose came off as described in the Service Manual, except I pulled the radiator. I drained the radiator, removed the fan shroud, removed the nuts from the upper X-brace, unbolted the lower stay rods at the radiator support, and disconnected the headlight/running light wiring. This was all pretty straight forward.
Pic 1.1 shows the bracket found at the bottom rear of each fender. Two bolts are used which go through the bracket, a rubber biscuit spacer, and then bolt into the nuts found on the inside of the fender. Unbolting was a pain. They were corroded and covered with undercoating. I hit 'em with a little penetrating oil. One snapped off, which was actually the easiest to get off. The other three I had the assistance of my brother ratcheting the nuts while I held the bolt heads with my breaker bar. I used heat on one nut, but did not help much in this instance, so just muscled them off. I will replace them with new bolts, washers, lock washers, nuts and rubber biscuits.
Pic 2.2 shows the upper rear fended bracket found just under the hood hinge. These are 1/2" bolts and backed out with little problem. I undid the top bolts on each side and then re-inserted them and tightened them up just a few turns so the bolts would hold the fender in place until ready to remove the nose. I removed the lower bolts completely. Inner fender remains attached.
Pic 3.3 shows the lower radiator support mounting holes where it sets on top and bolts down through the front frame crossmember. There is a rectangular plate as seen by the rusted area, that sits on top of the radiator support, then 2-bolts go through it and the bolt holes in the radiator support and then into the frame crossmember. Underneath the frame crossmember are 2 rubber mounts which the bolts run through, then there was a large washer, lock washer, and the nut which tightens down the bolt. No problem getting the nuts off, but had to use a hammer and steel dowel/punch to knock the bolts up through the radiator support. They will be replaced as they were badly corroded. The rubber mounts stuck in place, but looked dry rotted and cracked. I will pull these off and look into replacing them with something equivalent.
Pic 4.4 shows the nose off. My brother and I lifted the front of the nose up where it rested slightly on the front bumper. We then each undid the upper rear fender bolts to free up the fenders while supporting the fenders by holding them up so as not to drop down. We then simply lifted the entire nose up and over the front bumper and set it on the ground. IF you had good paint, you would not lift the front of the nose up and then back out the rear bolts as this angles the back top edge of your fender right into the cowl and would tear up the paint. So you would leave the front nose in place, unbolt the rear bolts, and lift up evenly and over the front bumper.
So 10 bolts, 4 stay rod bolts, headlight wiring disconnected, and 2 radiator hoses (I elected to remove the radiator & shroud) and the nose lifts off - pretty simple. Try that with a newer car. LOL
Pic 5.5 & 6.6 shows the engine and other components which are now very accessible. You can see the two bolt holes on the front crossmember where the radiator supports sets on. Hoping this will now give me the needed access to break free the stuck distributor.
Pic 7.7 & 8.8 reveals the rusted out panels at the lower cowl area that are hidden behind the back of the fenders at the rear. I am also guessing I have some rot on the lower cowl on the side where it has been gone over with a wide bead of window sealer. So looks like I will be doing a little metal work to get this back into shape.
Now the nose is off, I can also do some sheet metal work to it and get it cleaned, the rust encapsulated, and then primed/sealed for paint. The next phase will be the new wiring harness installation, new gauge cluster installed, dash controls working, wipers functioning, and getting all my lights rewired and working. These will all be set-up for 12volts.