Floor replacement

Working on redoing the floor on my KB, I have made both floor pieces on both sides and "rockers". Everything with primer on it in the pictures I replaced. Today I made the top flooring piece (unpainted in picture), I'm wondering if the best way to attach it would be by plug weld or rivets ? Don't have much experience with rivets.

I would think plug welding would be fine.

Dean

either will work, as long as we are talking solid rivets, not "pop" rivets, but I think spot welding or plug welding would be easier.

Plug weld is my preferred method.
Do your plug welds from the middle out to the corners. I like to have a damp rag to draw the temperature down after each weld. When I replaced the floor in our 1940 Ford I followed this procedure. Be prepared to do a little hammer work on the parts during the weld-up.
The problem with aluminium pop-rivets is the corrosion that happens with dissimilar metals. I have stainless rivets and I bought a pneumatic/hydraulic rivet tool because of the increase in difficulty in making the "POP"
I bought a pneumatic punch tool with edge forming. It was on sale for under $50 and worth the price, to me.
There are weld through primers available. Try http://www.eastwood.com/paints/automoti ... epoxy.html
https://www.kmstools.com/astro-pneumati ... tool-17400
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8549776e

Most common "pop" rivets will loosen over time, Cherry Max or Huck will not (or not as likely too), but can't be pulled by std riveter. Solid steel or aluminum (depending on the base metal) bucked with an air hammer and bucking bar is as good as a weld, but in most cases require two people and some experience to set the rivet correctly.

Thanks for the responses. I think I will go with the plug welding, seems to be the way to go. Would have been nice if there was a company that reproduced these floor pieces.

Anything made by man, can be re-made by another man...... if he has the skills! I am humbled by some of the work done by some members. Part of it is knowing your limits, then going just slightly beyond them, you learn as you go and find you can do a little more than you thought, then repeat, and your skill set grows!

CB sez: "Anything made by man, can be re-made by another man...... if he has the skills! I am humbled by some of the work done by some members. Part of it is knowing your limits, then going just slightly beyond them, you learn as you go and find you can do a little more than you thought, then repeat, and your skill set grows!"

I agree!

My take on "new adventures" is to determine what is "fixed in stone" as far as dimensions or locations
and then go for it!

I like to use #8 3/8 or 1/2 long hex head self tapping screws using a battery powered impact driver to hold my sheetmetal in place and pull it up tight to plug weld. If you made a nice fit a screw every 12 " is good. Then remove the screws and weld the hole shut. Its important to get it pulled up tight
You can reuse the screws about two or three times. I put my dull screws in a box marked dull and they get used on a household project. They will usually drill one more time
Use seam sealer before paint.

I use Clecos to hold tin for welding. They are re useable and a small Cleco kit comes with various other goodies for fastening tin temporarily. That's ambitious what you are getting into, nice work you are doing as well. Don't usually see so much rot in K Models, I have never even seen a rotted rocker panel on one of these trucks.