233CI-No1 position on cap?


The old and reliable.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:08 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

Monsonmotors wrote:There ARE some exceptions...I'm being smartass, again.. :)
"Odd-fire" Buick V-6 is one..

Thought about mentioning the Odd fire V6, but then it doesn't really apply to anything in a IHC. Remember the older version than the 231? the sixtys 225 V6? The early 231 ran just like a V8 with two dead cyl, which it basicly was. Had 90 deg crank throws. The "even fire" doesn't have exactly even (120 deg) crank throws either. It makes the crank too weak if exactly 120 deg, I think it was 123 or something. Another bastard design. I left automotive about when the Evan fire 231 was being stuffed into everything.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:24 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

mikelud wrote:mrjim2017
When doing timing work on engines a hand held remote starter switch is a good tool to have. You can bump the starter around from where you need to.
one can be made from two pieces of wire and a 20 amp horn button.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-r ... 35448.html

Harbor freight not recomended its just an example.



Know about remote starter switch or jumping the solenoids. I did not think I could rig up a remote starter switch on a foot pedal start application. I only see the lug for the batter cable. Where do I run a jumper wire to?
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

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Post Wed Oct 11, 2017 6:37 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

It wont work will it.
I get my high on heavy iron, the older and heavier the better I feel.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Oct 15, 2017 6:10 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

Worked on the truck today - good weather instead of the typical rain we seem to get every weekend. Got most of my 12volt negative ground conversion in place under the hood.

I purchased a hand held video inspection camera that has a 90 degree mirror attachment you can fit on the end. Figured I could put the camera head down into the No1 cylinder and watch the valves open and close to confirm my No1 firing position. Nope, would not work. Inserted the camera end into the spark plug hole and due to the design of the block/head, the camera end simply struck the top of the block area (?) adjacent to the valve. So could not do what I had intended to do to get the engine timed.

BUT, I remembered what DOXIN had posted about looking into the spark plug hole to see the valve. Sure enough, I could just see an edge of the valve (I don't know if the valve is the exhaust or intake? The valve looks in line with the exhaust manifold runner, not the intake manifold runner. It appeared to be the valve closet to the front of the engine. So I guess if I got this wrong, I am 180 out on my timing?) So I rotated the engine by hand and watched the valve open, then close, then I watched my timing mark as I brought it around to the pointer and lined it up. Still got the same No1 position on my distributor cap as I had prior to watching the valve movement - No1 plug wire/rotor is at the 4 o'clock position on my cap. So that is where I have No1 cylinder run and then put the rest of my plug wires in CCW.

Began working under the dash and pulled the instrument cluster to swap the Ammeter leads due to my swap to 12volt negative ground. It is a bit of a mess. Cloth on the wires is gone on some of them leaving them bare and exposed and some one prior has been in there as things are taped up and plastic wire covering has been fitted over some of the exposed wires. So I am going to have to do a little repair work so as not to have any grounded wires, shorts, fried electrical parts, or fires. My brother bought a new gauge cluster so it will get installed as well once I add the Runtz voltage reducers to the gauges.

Still working on replacing the makeshift rubber gas line hose installed by previous owner and replacing it all with 5/16" steel line.

So more hours to go on getting stuff fixed right before I can attempt to fire up the old truck.
Attachments
04 KB5 new cap,rotor,coil, electronic ignition.JPG
01 KB5 new wires & plugs.JPG

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 5171

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Sun Oct 15, 2017 7:05 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

Forget the runtz, Get something like this, and run you wipers and heater motor as well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WaterProof-12V- ... 1438.l2649


Not mine, nothing invested in the sale, but resistors and gauges are a bad mix.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Nov 12, 2017 5:41 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

Got the engine running today. Completed the charging/ignition system of my 12volt negative ground conversion. New 12volt battery/cables installed under the floor. Disconnected all gauge wiring but kept the Ammeter and reversed the wires for negative ground. Made up all new 5/16" fuel lines incorporating 2 inline fuel filters, drained the old gas and put in 10 gallons of ethanol free gas. Used a hand pump to fill the gas filters/lines up to the fuel pump.

Gave the carb a shot of gas and a blast of ether. Closed the choke a bit and spun the engine over. It fired up. I had set the idle screw on the rebuilt carb a little high knowing I wanted it to catch and run a higher RPM when it first kicked. Ran smooth and when it warmed up, I brought the RPM's down by adjusting the idle screw. When I hit the throttle, the engine responds instantly. I had to call my brother and tell him his truck now runs and let him hear it. He was all excited because we were not sure how well the engine ran as when I backed it off the drop deck trailer that delivered it to my house, it took 2 of us to get the engine running, it ran poorly, and had barely enough power to make a small hill 1/8th of a mile to my driveway.

Still have to get the distributor unstuck and the advance mechanism working. My brother is flying in for Turkey Day and he is going to help with removing the front fender assembly so I can get better access to the distributor and..........

Now that I know it runs well, I can continue on to the next step in this project. Got a brand new wiring harness, made like the original with cloth covering, from Rhode Island Wiring Service http://www.riwire.com/ Wires are all numbered and the quality looks excellent. Also have a new gauge cluster, 12 volt turn signal/4-way flasher set-up, and have to rewire all the rear lights and do a changeover to 12 volt lights/bulbs. Got a bunch more things to do on this truck to get it back up to snuff.
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 1887

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:40 am

Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:14 am

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

Thanks for the update! I'm enjoying following your progress.

Dean
Lifelong Kansan
Grew up with red paint
Moved off the farm 33 years ago.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Mon Nov 13, 2017 8:38 pm

Re: 233CI-No1 position on cap?

dean466 wrote:Thanks for the update! I'm enjoying following your progress.

Dean


Thanks Dean. Never worked on anything this old. Have been a car fanatic since I got my license at 16. Worked on cars of the 1950's through 70's (many Pontiacs/GTO's) when I was younger and you could afford to buy them. Went to school to learn autobody repair, took a college course for welding, and mechanical work I learned by doing 'cause I didn't have the money to bring my car to a shop. LOL Wanted to be another George Barris and do customs. Ah, the good ole days! Then life happened and I was out of it for almost 25 years (owning/working on them) and got to a point where I could pick it back up again in my late 50's. Having a lot of fun bringing the old truck up to par and doing some upgrades as well.

Jim
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