Quick Build Update.


The old and reliable.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 423

Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 4:44 pm

Post Sat Dec 14, 2019 7:02 am

Re: Quick Build Update.

First time painter....Wow. Looks awesome. Luke

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 273

Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:16 pm

Location: Dallas, TX

Post Sat Dec 14, 2019 12:27 pm

Re: Quick Build Update.

Thanks guys, I'm still amazed it came out like it did. I think the high solids clear helped on the flow out.
Anyone know, if I can just use like "Step 2" of 3M compound and a buffer for over spray? Had my tape along backside of door edge cracked open while I was painting the outside and some very light over spray got in and dulled the shine a bit. Haven't got any compound products yet, would the 3M system be a safe bet for a rookie buffer?
https://www.amazon.com/1Pk-Perfect-Buff ... merReviews

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 156

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:50 pm

Location: Below the pinky finger of the Mitten

Post Sat Dec 14, 2019 4:21 pm

Re: Quick Build Update.

I rarely see true compound used on any BC/CC system, the clear just can't take the heat. I recommend the clay block for removing overspray- IF it is so thick the clay won't take it off, wet sanding followed by a medium synthetic compound/scratch remover. We used a lot of variable speed orbitals with foam pads when I left the industry about 15 years ago, when I started (late 1970's) it was wool pads on high speed with pumice compounds for orange peel enamels and wet sanding lacquers.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 444

Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 6:36 pm

Location: Pocono Summit , Pa

Post Sat Dec 14, 2019 5:29 pm

Re: Quick Build Update.

I would agree with "K" on the clay bar. I usually start with the finest grade of compound/wet paper or whatever and work my way backward to try and reduce the amount of work to get where you want to be . I'm partial to Mother's compounds rather than 3m. Just seemed to go easier with better results. Might be just me. I keep on hand Heavy compound, regular, finish, and final glaze. Foam pads are usually color coded, white convoluted, blue, and a black finishing. I use a spray bottle of plain water and mist the area, then a squirt of compound and go to it. The water helps keep the temps down. I also wipe off the haze with color coded microfiber towels and keep each color towel for a specific grit. Don't want to wipe off the final glaze with a rag that was used for wiping off a heavy compound, instant scratches. 1200 - 1400 rpm's for heavy compunds and 16-1800 rpms for final glaze works best for me. I also try and mask off or use drop cloths on those areas I'm not working on, the stuff splatters if you're not careful and dried speckles of compound can be a royal pain to wipe off later on. With how well you did on the paint, I'm sure you'll catch on quick. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll find what works best for you. This was just a quick explanation of what I've learned over the years, never had any formal training so. . . hope it might help!

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 273

Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:16 pm

Location: Dallas, TX

Post Sat Dec 14, 2019 8:55 pm

Re: Quick Build Update.

Thanks for the tips, will do. Good idea on the covering up of areas. I tried a little area of the floor for 5 seconds and just like you said, I got tiny little dot spatters everywhere....

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 156

Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:50 pm

Location: Below the pinky finger of the Mitten

Post Sun Dec 15, 2019 11:12 am

Re: Quick Build Update.

yes, more masking than when you painted some times. These new vehicles with all their black plastic trim everywhere, mask it all every time you wax- the plastic surfaces just don't release the clay/silica from waxes and compounds. It's less time consuming in the long run to mask it and never get the stuff on it than to try to recover the finish afterwards. and forget the wipe-on trim renewers, the oils will run onto your paint or glass eventually, and streak it all up

compound should only be used for scratch removal, possibly a fish eye or similar defect during the painting process, or extreme overspray removal. you do not need to do the whole surface. And, most defects really don't come out right in the end, you're better off to leave them than screw it up worse trying to get a little spot out. You are likely the only person to even notice 50%of them, anyway. Now, if you dropped the kind of money Nikki did on that Ford to have the best retail shop do the paint, then, yes, demand perfection. What you did here is great, and probably just fine as is!!

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 273

Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:16 pm

Location: Dallas, TX

Post Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:17 pm

Re: Quick Build Update.

Yeah, it's mainly a few runs I have to address. I got a set of "curtains" on the inside... The body itself looks like I could get away with starting at 2000, 2500, 3000 grit just to flatten then buff. I'm just going to start with the runs and see how I do.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 304

Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2015 8:16 am

Post Tue Dec 31, 2019 9:19 am

Re: Quick Build Update.

Love the exhaust set up at bottom of garage door.

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 273

Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:16 pm

Location: Dallas, TX

Post Wed Jan 01, 2020 2:48 am

Re: Quick Build Update.

Worked like a champ too. I had a door size piece with two big filter on it on the entry door. Didn't ever have to clamp it to open door, it just sucked it's self close when I turned on fans.
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