Pile of Parts
Posts: 32
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2012 8:08 am
Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:51 pm
DOOR WINDOW CHANNEL PART #2
The next step is to get the correct parts. Measure the width of your old channel and order the right channel. The channel for the K/KB 6 and larger cabs and the D cabs is 5/8" wide and you need a 8' length for each door. The Restoration Specialties part # is 3A1-96-WIN. The part # for the clips is 1972-WIN. The KB 1-5 trucks may use a different channel, you'll have to measure. If it is 9/16" wide the part # is 8A2, I don't know what the length is but it comes in 60" & 96" lengths.
Now you need to inspect all of the clip holes for the channel and the "cat whiskers". The area around the holes HAS TO BE FLAT. If a hole is concave (pushed in), your new clip will NOT snap in. I found several of my "cat whisker" holes were bent inward, and the new cat whiskers would not clip in until the holes were repaired. I use a bolt with a washer on each side of the sheet metal to flatten the hole. Tighten the nut and the sheet metal flattens out. Unfortunately, some of the holes can't be accessed from both sides, so you may have to weld a bolt on to a thin rod to get between the door skin and the steel channel, what fun.
Finally, the tab at the bottom of the steel channel needs to be flat and straight (see picture). The problem here is you can't see this tab and you have to work by "feel" . I made a block of wood to place behind the tab to support it while pushing in the clip.
Once you have the steel channels clean and straight, all the holes flat and round, you're ready to install your new parts which I'll cover in another thread.
Spikedog
Now you need to inspect all of the clip holes for the channel and the "cat whiskers". The area around the holes HAS TO BE FLAT. If a hole is concave (pushed in), your new clip will NOT snap in. I found several of my "cat whisker" holes were bent inward, and the new cat whiskers would not clip in until the holes were repaired. I use a bolt with a washer on each side of the sheet metal to flatten the hole. Tighten the nut and the sheet metal flattens out. Unfortunately, some of the holes can't be accessed from both sides, so you may have to weld a bolt on to a thin rod to get between the door skin and the steel channel, what fun.
Finally, the tab at the bottom of the steel channel needs to be flat and straight (see picture). The problem here is you can't see this tab and you have to work by "feel" . I made a block of wood to place behind the tab to support it while pushing in the clip.
Once you have the steel channels clean and straight, all the holes flat and round, you're ready to install your new parts which I'll cover in another thread.
Spikedog