Hand Crank. Where can I find one?

I think this may be a good solution to my issue.

After my KB2 sits for a few months, when I try to start it, it takes a bit of engine turnover to get fuel up and get it started. I am concerned I am putting too much wear on the starter.

I figure if I use a hand crank and put in a few rotations, it will be an easier and quicker start with the starter.

I am googling for the hand crank, but I didn't find anything that would take me in the right direction.
Did anyone find one? Can I make one on my own?
How do you handle starting the truck after it has been sitting for a few months? (maybe there is an easier startup procedure you can share?)

Is this post the best way to solve this? viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11438
Thanks

After many years, I found a crank for my K-7's. I have one crank for two trucks. You'd have to be a stronger man that I to crank it long enough to draw fuel. Starting once it is primed is a whole nuther matter, the crank will work fine for that.
I used the hand syringe, and one big pull is enough to draw fuel to the filter above the intake, it still need the engine to crank a few revs just to fill the float bowl. How many revolutions it would take to do it all with the engine fuel pump, I don't care to guess.
Problem is, the fuel they call gasoline today is a far cry from what it was in 40's. It is designed for closed fuel tanks in in-tank fuel pumps. The fuel is designed to evaporate at atmospheric pressure. SO when one of our old truck sits, the gas evaporates before we start them again.
So depending on your priorities, either an electric primer or something like I use. An old primer pump for a Cummins would work and be period correct, but any way to get fuel to the carb, is all that is needed.

thanks.

I saw this guy do it, figured I have hope

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSUTy2viQyo

This may be one of the most silly posts, ever. If the starter works, use it. The starter will rotate the engine many times faster than a hand crank. If the engine will not start while cranking, with the starter, the voltage may be too low to generate a spark strong enough for ignition. My Dad used to place a separate battery ahead of the coil, after disconnecting the coil from the truck mounted battery. This way, the heavy current draw from the starter was not able to drop the available voltage. After the engine started, Dad would quickly reconnect the coil to the truck wire.
If you are cranking like the guy in the video, you are at risk of a broken arm, if the engine back-fires.
If the ratchet has gone missing, lots of luck finding one. I have both styles. Don't ask, not for sale.
BTW, there are at least three crank styles. I have the third style somewhere. Each ratchet requires its own style crank.
Plumb an electric fuel pump into the truck's fuel system. This will get fuel up to the carburetor in a few seconds. You might consider adding a check valve at the fuel tank to prevent fuel drain-back.
Wile modern fuel is not like the fuel of the distant past, it works if a person allows for the changes.

I have hand cranked both tractors and trucks. That is not the way to crank a motor. If the motor fires and motor kicks back. Your arm may feel like it is dislocated and cause you to use some choice language to express your pain!

I should have mentioned this. It is much better to install the electric pump near the fuel tank, These pumps can push fuel ahead and under pressure many times better than they can draw fuel from behind the installation. It is a good idea to know and understand that it is the atmospheric pressure that pushed the fuel out of the tank and into the fuel system. The pump lowers the pressure between the pump and the tank and the tanked fuel is pushed to fill the lowered pressure area by the ambient air pressure of about 14.5psi.
I installed a submerged fuel pump in the tank of my 1940 Ford. This pump has the ability to make 100psi of fuel pressure. I use a residual check valve to regulate the fuel pressure to something like 45-50 psi for the injectors. The residual check valve I used is boost referenced because of the supercharger on the engine.
Look at all of the fun you are missing.

As I stated before I have one crank for 3 engines, I haven't tried to hand crank the '48 (winch truck) and until recently, the '42 (flatbed) the radiator wasn't properly aligned for the crank. Truck didn't care about alignment but to use the crank it has to be right.
A while back I set the points by dwell and set the timing and checked the advance curve, made a big difference over setting points by gap and not getting the timing spot on. Starts great.
After the radiator alignment it kicks over on the first compression stroke with the hand crank. While i wouldn't want it to be my only way of starting, and I still have the "dry carb" problem when it sits, hand cranking the 269 is easy when compared to my Buda 525!

deleted

Ether and/or a few drops of fuel into the carb.
Do not drown the engine with fuel. Remember the engine does no burn fuel. It burns the vapor.
If you cannot live without a crank, make one. If your engine does not have a ratchet on the front of the crankshaft, a crank will do you no help.

I have a inline fuel filter before the carb. I use a syringe to draw fuel up through the filter, and the expel it into the carb fuel through the float valve into the float bowl, then start normally with the choke.