49 KB2 slop in steering

My steering is getting worse and worse, I get over an 1/8 of a turn of movement of the wheel back and forth to keep it going straight down the road. I have a Motors Truck Repair manual for this year and the International Service Manual and as everyone knows these old manuals are hard to follow and the artwork is not great. Does anyone have any suggestions for my 49 KB2 Steering issues? It is almost getting to the point where it is undrivable. I am hoping my Steering gearbox is not shot.

It starts with a full inspection. King pin, drag link and tie rods are 1st on the list. Spring pin/hangers and U bolts are next.
Then check the steering box, it will likely take two people.
Before you can address slop, you need to know where it is coming from.
Steering box has adjustment, but you 1st need to be sure that is where the slop is, or you can make steering worse.
Boxes can be loose in several places. The main shaft from the wheel can be loose in the axial direction, and that is corrected most often by removing shims.
the output (pitman) shaft can have poor engagement with the worm and need to be adjusted tighter, and the bushing that support it can be shot and need replacement, you can't "adjust out" slop in the bushings.

check tire pressure is even, toe in is correct, if that doesn't help,,,,

put truck on jack stands wheels pointed straight forward, check king pins, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, drag link for slop by grabbing tire and trying to wiggle up and down, in and out left and right, note where you see movement. also check for slop at shackles holding leaf springs to frame and that axle is still bolted tight to springs.

wheel bearing are adjusted by removing hub cap, cotter pin and tightening nut just until no loose movement, replace cotter pin,
tie rod ends and drag link ends are adjusted by removing cotter pin and turn big slotted end plug in till it bottoms out no harder, replace cotter pin.

if king pins are shot that is a complete front end job.

see what moves that shouldn't, AFTER you've address loose bearings, tie rods ends etc, Then sit in cab and pull wheel towards you, any movement, need to adjust shims at top of steering box to column,

Next After doing all this you can adjust slop on box to pitman lever, turn steering wheel all the way one direction till it stops, then turn back the other way counting complete revolutions, (a piece of tape on wheel helps), now go back Half as many turns, steering wheel is now centered, mark it with tape.

on engine side of the steering box is a nut and slotted bolt, you loosen lock nut and turn slotted bolt in until it makes contact resistance, check wheel there should be the slightest drag at center position while turning it each way, Do Not adjust while wheel is not centered or you will wear out the steering box fast.

when you have slop out, hold slotted bolt in position and tighten lock nut,

if you adjust box first without addressing everything listed you wasted your time, do the check and repairs in order.

It starts with a full inspection. King pin, drag link and tie rods are 1st on the list. Spring pin/hangers and U bolts are next.
Then check the steering box, it will likely take two people.
Before you can address slop, you need to know where it is coming from.
Steering box has adjustment, but you 1st need to be sure that is where the slop is, or you can make steering worse.
Boxes can be loose in several places. The main shaft from the wheel can be loose in the axial direction, and that is corrected most often by removing shims.
the output (pitman) shaft can have poor engagement with the worm and need to be adjusted tighter, and the bushing that support it can be shot and need replacement, you can't "adjust out" slop in the bushings.

all good points, if he reads and follow both our replies,,,,maybe it will help.