OldIHC

Over the years was there any difference in these?
The reason I ask mine had an old carb on it when I got it.
Rather than try and find a kit for it I bought a new one from a Company in Florida who specializes in carbs.
It will not fit the bolt pattern of the manifold that was on the engine when I bought the truck.
I did look at their web site before ordering and it says what I have will fit.
The bolt holes on the new card are too far apart to fit the studs on the manifold.
I contacted them in Florida and they swear that the one they sent me will fit a GD214 intake.
I have thought about making it fit but I question if the gasket would seal it correctly.
I suspect at some point the intake has been changed.
Would anyone know what brand the original card may have been? I am assuming it was the original one as it has a sediment bowl just before the fuel goes in the carb.
Any thought/ideas on this?
Thanks.

My first thing would be to make an adapter/spacer/ for this situation. I have the milling machines to make this easy, but any person with an electric drill and a hole saw could make something that works. I Googled for a few pictures and I will attach the link.
I would start off with a piece of 19 millimeter thick aluminum bar and go from there.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=aluminum ... 45&bih=881
https://www.google.ca/search?
q=carburetor+spacer/adapter&hl=en&sxsrf=ALeKk03M3ZggYzEaNiDt41IoTA44gogxHQ:1613171542820&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwik1JWmvOXuAhW0IDQIHd7kB_YQ_AUoAnoECBcQBA&biw=1745&bih=881

There are several 'SAE" sizes of 1bbl with different stud spacing to allow for different sizes of throttles and venturi sizes. I have a very large 1bbl on a 525 CID engine.
I have no idea, but I would doubt they used different spacing on the GRD.
I have found that the 282 take a wider spacing than the 220, but I would think the 213 would be similar.
The Flat head was also used in AG/industrial and it is possible that those used a different intake and stud spacing.

ks ihc guy, 1st, I am not a K or KB guy. How far are the studs off? Any Pics, I was looking at the K1 thru k5 metro manual, look like 2 manifolds were used on the 214, and an assortment of carbs. Which one did you buy? If the company in FL is the one I'm thinking of: DPC, I saw a 1 BLL to 1BLL adapter, No dimensions posted.
As posted above a home adapter would work. Oh curious about the throat size on the carb and manifold.

I will get some measurments and pictures and try to post them here.
It is Daytona Carburetor in Florida.

When replacing a carburetor, the primary concern, obviously, is that the mounting spacing is correct for the intake manifold.

However, even MORE important, is that the internal venturi(s) of the carburetor are matched to the engine size.

If the carburetor has too large a venturi, the engine will run lean (internal carburetor air velocity too low to pull the proper amount of fuel from the fuel wells).

If the carburetor has too small a venturi, the engine will run rich (opposite of above) to a certain RPM, and then fall flat on its face.

If you have the original carburetor, rebuilding is probably preferable to a new universal (the definition of universal carburetor - fits many, works well on none!).

Jon

Back when I was working in automotive, there was a "carb rebuild" company around Chicago that sold a lot of rebuilt carbs. The name escapes me now, but it seamed they took carbs apart wholesale and threw the parts in bins, from which they re assembled willy nilly.
When one of these abominations came into the shop with a running problem or I had an original carb that had worn so badly that they either needed the throttle shaft hole in the base bored and bushed back to size, I would buy a used carb from the junkyard and build that one, rather than try and fix the "rebuild" or do the machine work. In one case I was able to source a new throttle body for a dual-jet.
It was one of those junkyard carb's that had the "experimental" idle system on it. Other than not being able to get the correct gasket kit, it was rebuilt and ran out good.
Those generic rebuilds were a nightmare of mixed parts and impossible to make right!

Jon, After looking at your web site, KS's motor probably came with a Zenith, if he got the Holley clone 1904, universal, I would think it would be to big.

My two cents; my son’s 1965 mustang had a bad carburetor and I traded it in for one of the remanufactured gems. I could not get it to perform correctly. I returned it and received another quite easily from the big name auto store ( O’s ) better but not right . The old adage that it’s probably not the carb haunted me so I re-checked the tune-up stuff I had done previously and it made no difference. The big auto parts store traded me for another reman carb. I played with it for awhile with little success . I found an original two barrel that had been rebuilt and was being sold due to a swap over to a four barrel. As soon as I fired up the engine it ran like a dream.

I guess my take is that if there’s a good rebuilder near you go for it and stay away from the production line rebuilds. I had one barrel Zenith ( 1949 Green Diamond engine ) rebuilt by Then and Now Automotive and sent it back. The second rebuild was good. I also had the fuel pump done by them which was done well. The fuel pumps are done in-house but the carbs are sent somewhere.

I believe I am going to go use my old card so I need to either get it rebuilt or find a kit for it. The only number on it is 0-421 that is part of the casting, No metal tags or nothing else. I mentioned in my original post that that I had purchased a new one from a Company in FL... Daytona Parts CO it does not fit the bolt pattern.
Would anyone know if 0-421 is a good number to perhaps get a rebuild kit? I have not tried any of the local parts stores to see if they can find a kit.
I have tried a google search with 0-421 nothing much shows up other than to say it is a carb.
Thank you