ford explorer rear end

I am considering a ford explorer rear end for my KB3 woodie. The wood work is coming along famously, have pulled all the metal body parts (sans the cab) and are at the painter, sent the seats to the upholstery shop, and have installed front disk brakes to KB1 hubs.

After reading the posts (I am not lazy, just stupid) about the ford explorer rear end, I had a few questions that hopefully a few members will know. I am planning on buying one that is completely reconditioned (don't trust old parts), but need some help

1. Can the original rear leaf springs, U bolts, and brackets be used with the Ford Explorer rear end?
2. Is there a difference in the Ford Explorer rear ends from the early 90s to those in the early 2000s? If so, is one or the other preferable?
3. what modifications are needed to connect the original driveshaft to the explorer rear end?
4. what machining is needed (if any) for mounting the leaf springs?
5. Is it preferable to use the old knee shocks, or modern shocks?
6. With either shock preference, are new mounting sites on the differential required to be welded on?
7. Is the width of the axle the same? If not, are there considerations for wheel accomodation?


Thanks for any help. I am ignorant, but really want to learn.

1. Can the original rear leaf springs, U bolts, and brackets be used with the Ford Explorer rear end?
You will likely have to move the Ford spring mounts. Not a big deal. They can be cut off and rewelded on. Never reuse "U" bolts. They are not expansive.
2. Is there a difference in the Ford Explorer rear ends from the early 90s to those in the early 2000s? If so, is one or the other preferable?
The 8.8 Explorer differential you want is 1007 - 2003. They are all the same.
3. what modifications are needed to connect the original driveshaft to the explorer rear end?
Don't worry about this. Any driveline shop can make up what you need.
4. what machining is needed (if any) for mounting the leaf springs?
read answer #1
5. Is it preferable to use the old knee shocks, or modern shocks?
Both work well and both will have to be adapted to the new differential.

6. With either shock preference, are new mounting sites on the differential required to be welded on?
Read #5
7. Is the width of the axle the same? If not, are there considerations for wheel accomodation?
The widths should be the same. use your tape-measure.
Thanks for any help. I am ignorant, but really want to learn.

Stop with that shyte. I am sure you know lots of good stuff. You do not have to be that way on this forum. Most of the members could not answer your questions. Restorers do not know or accept substitutions or upgrades.

I bought a 1997 Ford Explorer differential from a Ford dismantler. If I remember, it cost me $250. I bought all of the seals, parking brakes components, new rotors, all new studs, new calipers and pads from NAPA. I changed the gear ratio. By the time the unit was complete, I was out of pocket about $1200.
I made all new mounts for air springs, and a four-bar system with Panhard. How far you want to go and how much you want to spend is almost endless.

I believe 1995 was the changeover year from drum brakes to disc on the Explorer 8.8's. You may need to look at upgrading your master cylinder and a proportioning valve, especially if you go with disc brakes in the rear. A little Google searching will get you all the different Ford 8.8 axle widths, from the Mustangs to the Crown Vics to the Explorer and Ranger pickups. From reading on here, the Explorer is at least close in width to the K series pickups. The pinion is offset toward the passenger side by a couple inches, but apparently not a problem. Measure your spring widths. If they're 1-3/4", you'll need perches that wide and for a 3-1/4" diameter axle. Not easy to come by, but 3" ones can be ground, or they can be made. You'll almost certainly have to cut off the old mounts and weld new ones on.

Yes, 1995 was the year when they switched to rear disks. If you are going to run front drums, I would recommend using drum rear. If you are going to run front disks, rear disks would be good, but with 4 wheel disks esp. you are going to need some sort of power booster.

As B72 might say, "This is not rocket surgery." I made new spring to axle brackets from rectangular steel tube. I used a hole saw to cut the tube to fit the axle.
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_l ... axle.shtml

Well the bracket itself isn't the difficult part, Making sure you have the pinion angle set right before you weld it is, for many people.
The output shaft of the trans and the pinion must be at the same angle when the truck is in normal riding position (weight on the suspension).

I always say, sometimes," It is always better to have the rear-end lined up properly for a better performance."

Thanks very much for all the replies and information!

I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help out with all the pointers.

Thanks again!

I believe 1995 was the changeover year from drum brakes to disc on the Explorer 8.8's. You may need to look at upgrading your master cylinder and a proportioning valve, especially if you go with disc brakes in the rear. A little Google searching will get you all the different Ford 8.8 axle widths, from the Mustangs to the Crown Vics to the Explorer and Ranger pickups. From reading on here, the Explorer is at least close in width to the K series pickups. The pinion is offset toward the passenger side by a couple inches, but apparently not a problem. Measure your spring widths. If they're 1-3/4", you'll need perches that wide and for a 3-1/4" diameter axle. Not easy to come by, but 3" ones can be ground, or they can be made. You'll almost certainly have to cut off the old mounts and weld new ones on.

Isn't the easiest thing to do address the leaf spring mounts would be to remove the mounting platform for the leafsprings from the old IH rear differential and then mount them on the ford axle?