Door hinge adjustment on KB2

I am looking for suggestions on adjusting the doors on my 1947 KB2. There are two adjustments that I need to do . The first is to correct a drooping ( to low at the latch side ) that is likely due to wear of either or both the hinge and the hinge pin. The second is that I need to move the door slightly to the rear because it is too close to the front edge of the door opening. It appears that the door was pushed by a wind gust at sometime. From what I believe I am seeing, the hinges bolt into a fixed backing plate located just on the back side of the door frame. I had hopes that it would just be a matter of loosening the bolts, making the adjustments,then retightening the bolts. So far , that hasn’t worked. I am assuming that the backing plate that accepts the bolts is stationary. A friend suggested removing the door then persuading the hinge to the rear with a hammer to correct the second problem. I would like to think there is a better solution. Any ideas?

Yeah the threaded holes for hinges, are a plate that is welded to inside of door frame. There is very little adjustment wiggle room with the holes on hinges. The hinges near the pins, where they get close to body is miss leading. I thought my door was swung too far as well, with the slight dent in body at back of hinge where it is very close to the body. I thinks that's just how they were made.
If your not seeing much adjustment from loosen and re-setting door hinges. You can only try wollering out the holes a bit one way or another to get a bit more adjustment. If the hinge is truly bent, you will need to put it in a vise and heat with a torch and try to bend the the hinge back a bit. Just keep the bolt pattern flat in the vise so that stays flat. And if the hinge pin holes are wollered out and the hinges are loose you could weld up the holes and re-drill them. But you might have to make a jig to hold it at the correct 90 degrees and use a drill press, so you don't make the pins hole wonky.

I also had to grind down the back of my hinges where it is very close to body (where it curves near the pin) so I could set the hinge "in" a bit closer. My holes were not lining up after paint. I ended up filling up that slight dent in body behind hinge. So mine if flat without the dent behind pins in body.

A bit more work but you could remove the door, remount both hinges then get some square steel and weld a plate with mounting holes to match door and do this for top and bottom and you will be able to easily see if they are not parallel. And you could use that set up as well when you heat them to bend, checking level.
I don't think I would try to bang on the hinges while they are mounted, you might just end up bending the door frame. If you needed to bend the jam, you could also weld up a long heavy bar and bolt to baking plate and try to pull or push that solid bar to bend plate at jam frame.

Thanks Wylie, that confirms what I was afraid was the situation and since you have been there/done that, I appreciate your suggestions for a fix. I expect that that is the direction I will go. I want to thank you for taking the time for your thorough response. This forum with all the combined experience and willingness to share has been enormous help in my rebuild.

Happy to help! This forum was valuable for me as well. I finished my truck this year so it's all still fresh in my head. Continue to ask away!

if your hinge pins are sloppy need to address them first, oversize pins are available from Ferd repop sites,

if your pins are good, as stated only adjustments you can get on hinge bolt is in and out, not forward backward,

I met an old school body man years ago, he had stacks of hardwood wedges, if he needed to adjust bottom of door toward back of cab, put wedge at lower hinge and force door closed, at little at a time,

another route is the long bar tapped with screw holes to tweak pillar plate,

On the off-chance that a person cannot get the crack between the door and the body perfectly lined up there are a few options to draw the critical eye away from that area. I have used all of these, once.
Getting the door crack perfectly lined up was the most difficult. 199
It may be important to use some of these methods with some caution. A significant other may not fully understand. My friend has been wearing a bra for weeks since his wife found it under the seat of his R110.

if your hinge pins are sloppy need to address them first, oversize pins are available from Ferd repop sites,

if your pins are good, as stated only adjustments you can get on hinge bolt is in and out, not forward backward,

I met an old school body man years ago, he had stacks of hardwood wedges, if he needed to adjust bottom of door toward back of cab, put wedge at lower hinge and force door closed, at little at a time,

another route is the long bar tapped with screw holes to tweak pillar plate,

bedrockjon is 100% correct. If the hinge pins are not tight, the doors cannot be adjusted very well, if at all. I bought new pins from Bob Drake https://www.bobdrake.com/3740door-hinges
I chose to bore out the original hinges then install stainless sleeves. I bored the sleeves one size under then reamed them to size. This was a time consuming event of about 8 hours for eight hinges. (Ford)
It may be possible to make very thin shims to adjust the door to fit the cab opening a little better. Any movement at the hinge multiplies by 25 -40 times at the lock plate.

Thanks for the additional ideas guys. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of play at the hinge pins but as you said it doesn’t take much to make a big difference at the striker plate. Now if I can get my mind past Nikkinutshop’s illustrated suggestion. On second thought I may not try to move on right away.