Head gasket

After 42 years of marriage I have developed selective hearing and seeing things. At first it was a choice and now it is something out of my control. It is all good.

All the engine studs I have researched appear to be grade eight .You have suggested staying away from grade eight BOLTS. Do studs differ in this respect ? I’m thinking that studs would also be beneficial in sealing off the water jacket where the threads stop when screwed into the block. Am I off base wanting to put at least 3/4” of thread into the block ?
Thanks,
BL

Studs could be made from any material that will hold shape while the threads are being formed. Even frozen peanut butter can be formed into a stud. The grade of the stud material is a choice made before the studs are formed.
I like studs because they are installed while not under stress. I prefer studs because a stud can be sealed, installed and never disturbed again.
There is some thought that old and tired castiron threads are less strong and the turning of a bolt while the load is increasing adds an extra fail option for the threads in the block.
Your suggestion of 3/4" into the block would be the minimum I would like to see. I am not familiar with the Old IHC stud sizing.
I needed 24 different length studs for my Ford Flathead V8. I custom formed each one in my lathe. I chose to use a stainless steel of about grade 5. I made a stud map so I would not mix the studs up.
Old Ford use 7/16"/14tpi threaded coarse on the end that goes into the block and fine 20tpi thread on the out end.
A stud must be sketched a little to keep tight, not unlike a bungie cord.
I would be surprised if ARP are not able to supply grade 5 studs. Your local machine shop can make studs, they will need a few examples. I do not know if Old IHC had different length studs.

Love the finned heads. Lot of those flatheads around in my youth. Amazingly creative belt routing. Lathes do come in handy. Haven’t been near one since I worked at Boston Gear Works in 1967/68. Thank you for all the info but I think that my stud search is waning. I may just revert back to the bolts I removed . They cleaned up well. I put them in a pattern block when I removed them so I could have a look at each bolt and the coinciding block thread. A couple that I had previously removed and reinstalled had some rust color. Now I really understand the need for thread sealer.
AMAZING; I’ve had that same hearing loss for awhile..think it’s getting worse and maybe more selective.
Bk

I think the OEM bolts will work OK. Those engines are so low performance it very unlikely there will be a problem. I would use some LOCTITE 565 white Teflon paste thread sealer to assist the bolts to seal and turn with less risk of damage to threads. If you do the 565, only fill the threads level. Any more is wasting product.
I made all of the serpentine belt pulleys and tensioner wheels. There is a100+ hours into the design and machining. I work slowly.
This engine has been a lesson in what changes I make now will make other changes necessary later. Looking back, now, I think I might have been a little out of my mind. It is all just "nuts".
Just because I got the idea and my mind was off-leash, I did a single serpentine belt drive on an SD220. I bought the pulleys at an auto recycler, machined adapters to the OEM. and added power steering and an alternator. For me, the best way to design the belt layout is to draw it 1-1 on cardboard. I try to find a serpentine belt at the recycler that is about the right size. The design can be adjusted a little to fit the belt.
My IHC trucks have won a few awards at shows. It was very rare for someone to question the originality. When I installed a Diesel there was some questions. I lied and suggested the R120 was an original factory Diesel show truck. That worked about 90% of the time. Most people don't know and do not want to figure it out. Lies work well. Isn't that how some politicians get elected.
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The real advantage of studs, is they can use the thread form best for each end. A course thread takes more force to pull out, a fine thread can take more rotating torque. so course in the block where the load is a straight pull and fine on the nut where the force is applied by tightening the nut.

WOW. I see much thought and build patience were put into that. Very impressive and way beyond my skill level. It’s hard enough finding time in the garage as it is..imagine what stories I’d have to conjure up if there was a lathe out there. Maybe I could contact a local pol to come up with a great story; they seem to do it on a minute by minute basis. :lol
CB, I concur with your stud analysis but on this particular adventure I will stay with bolts. I did order #8 bolts ( I know, I know Nik that you suggested #5 ) and will coat the threads with a sealer. The originals were #8 so I’ll stay with them and see what happens. If the new head gasket arrives before the new bolts I may just get anxious enough to use the existing . Delivery times are a little off during these COVID-19 times.

Head’s on and I my test voyage was to cruise night. Nik; the grade 8 bolts had not arrived On time so I locally purchased 21 proper size grade 5 bolts ( with you in mind ) and installed the head. I was looking forward to the aromas ,from my youth , of recently assembled engines. The odors never occurred (as I remember them) . Maybe the new gasket stuff is more environmentally friendly . The only things I smelled were the new paint from the head and maybe something that reminded me of hot coolant. With these in mind when I got parked at the show I quickly opened the hood and checked there and under the truck saw nothing. SOMETIMES NOTHING IS A GOOD THING. Ran well all the way home.

FANTASTIC

Rod in head.While cleaning the machined surface to mount the thermostat goose neck ,I observed a loose 1/16” rod running front to back inside the head ( water jacket ). I cut a piece off with some wire cutters, took It out, bent up the end of the existing and pulled the rest out. Don’t know if I would be able to hear it rattling around or not. Probably not but I removed it anyway.

Am I correct in assuming that the rod may have had something to do with the casting process ?