OldIHC

starters not engaging
I have just finished restoring my KB2 49'; current issue I cannot get the start to engaged. I did the first couple times I started it and now just spins and a little metal sound. What would you start investigating first?

Have now replaced the battery, cables, and cleaned the solenoid, turn the motor by hand and still can not get the start to engage. It did engage when I first reinstalled the motor three weeks ago. Any ideal what the start is not engaging?

check your other thread!

I thought people not looking at that group would not see the thread; I did all the things suggest!

You still haven't told us what engine you have. The small K's with a flat head DID NOT have a solenoid so if you "cleaned the solenoid" it is either different then stock starter or a different than stock engine.
The engine is cranked on the flat heads by a button/pedel on the FLOOR with a mechanical linkage to the starter itself, moving the mechanical linkage engages the starter pinion into the flywheel. THERE IS NO SOLENOID.
SO FOR THE THIRD OR FOURTH TIME WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE IN THAT TRUCK?

In the other post he has a 214 GND

Then someone has put a different starter in! No solenoid on a GRD starter.

gcranor:
can you tell us what the model number of the starter is? from the oval tag if it's still legible. i assume it's a delco.
also are you running 6 or 12 volts on your truck.
thanks.
tom

It was a switch on top of the starter; I thought it was the solenoid. The engine is a GRN 214, original flat head. I did include the engine if the first post.

12V I will pull get the start number later today.

Ok, since we have established it is a mechanical link type starter, that helps alot. AFAIK they were not made 12 volt. SO either the link/switch is adjusted wrong and is making contact before the pinion engages with the ring gear, or more likely the extra torque produced by feeding 12 volts into the starter has taken out the overruning clutch on the starter drive. I'd start by checking the starter drive, you should be able to turn it one direction without turning the armature in the motor, but should turn the armature when you try and turn the other direction. Many of the older drives had a thick coil spring on them that wrapped around bolts (screws) at each end. That spring could be broke if it has that kind of drive on the motor. Either way a new drive is in order.