Green diamond oil filter

Please read!!!!!!!!!

http://www.texaspowerwagon.com/oil_filter_debate.htm

Bud

Good article. Thanks
Bobby K1

Thanks to all for information regarding the Green Diamond oil filter. I have installed the can utilizing a sock filter element. I took Tom Fleming's advice and ran the input from the lower 1/8 pipe size passage , on the drivers side of the block ,using 1/4 " copper tubing to the bottom of the can. The return outlet from the top of the can was connected to the upper 1/8 pipe size passage in the block via a 125 PSI translucent plastic hose. I did this to observe the flow and get an idea how it all worked. Eventually I plan to install a more correct looking hose.

Interesting how much oil actually runs through a " bypass " filter and I found out that the top gasket has to be set exactly right ( chuckle chuckle ). After the engine was shut down the return hose drained completely.

Oil pressure is running around 45 lbs after warm up. Slight tick in one, maybe two lifters which I may or not address at end of season.

Now on to the regulator that I just can't seem to get adjusted exactly right. After all the advice from this forum I'm heading th the garage to test the generator output so I can match the regulator.

Thanks again All,
Bobby K1

I may be stating the obvious, but a "little tick" in the rockers is normal in all that I have ever had in old engines. "like a well oiled sewing machine"
Just my thoughts

Being A GRD there are no rockers, so likely a loose lifter or two. OHV can tick when the rocker arm bushing is worn even if the valve clearance is correct, not the case with flathead tho.

CB, agreed. However, L-head (flathead) engines always have a wee bit of valve noise, just like overheads with solid lifters. If the valve lash is set correctly, there will be a slight ticking, but not significant. If it sounds like a tin can full of ball bearings being shaken, yeah, I would definitely check the lash on the valves.........

Thanks again for lifter advice. I'll run and drive it for awhile. If it bothers me I'll plan on resetting the clearance but the on-line manual I purchased states the clearance but not how to go about it. I've worked with shimmed clearances and lock nut adjustments . The manual does not state what is needed to set the proper spacing nor is there as pic. Any words of wisdom from those in the know will be very welcome.

After the season I don't know if I'll remove the entire nose. I'm looking for advice if I can successfully get to the side plate and lifters by removing the inner fender and front wheel and what exactly will I find?

Thanks All,
Bobby K1

to adjust the valves in a running condition pick up,

you have to jack up and remove passenger front tire, block truck on safe stands, remove inner fender,

remove the two side covers under the manifold, you use three open end wrenches, one to hold the lifter body, one to hold the lock nut, and one to adjust the tappet end,

don't remember the sizes, I just did this a few month's ago, 1/2 & 7/16, or 1/2 & 1/2 or 1/2 & 9/16, any way three wrenches feeler gauge,
and oh yea, the manifold is supposed to be red hot to burn the crap out of you, for a hot adjust.

fun times,

you want a little tick tick tick, these are not hydraulics where you adjust the tick out, you don't want tick tick clack clack either, you can hear if they are too loose,

the saying was a sound like a well oiled sewing machine whatever that sounds like,

manual list tappet clearance on both intake and exhaust .015" Hot.

Thanks bedrock Jon. Many years ago running a " built " Chevy v8 I can recall adjusting solid lifter clearances with the engine running . It was oily and hot but it was done at the top and over the fender. If I do this it will be a new experience.
Again I rely on you guys for good tips.

Thanks,
BobbyK1

about 7:45 gives you the sound of a well oiled sewing machine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5IGR47 ... tml5=False