Green diamond oil filter

Doc says I have to go to decaf after the first two real cups in the morning. The malt beverage in the evening sounds rewarding.

hi

I looked at my green diamond 214, mine's different for the high pressure line

First, yes the rubber hose from the top of the canister goes in the hole almost directly below:



but the high pressure line is completely different, it goes around the other side of the engine. It looks original and not somebody's homemade hack job, as the line is nice and straight and has all the mounting brackets. (note: in the last picture the last 90-degree fitting has been removed at the end of the line, where it enters the block just in front of the oil pressure sensor, but it's just a brass 90-degree elbow)

Guy's this ain't rocket science. Oil taken from the oil rifle (pressure side of the pump) gets fed into the bottom port on the filter. The top is return and is "dumped" into the pan. As oil filters were optional, and could have been dealer or customer installed at a later date, plumbing location may vary. As long as it is connected correctly, where the connections are made isn't critical.
Bypass oil filters are always plumbed in parallel with the rest of the lubed parts. Full flow filters are plumbed in series which makes how and where the connections are made more critical.
All you need is one pressure tap and a free opening to the pan for return.

This readin' might help

Bud

http://www.texaspowerwagon.com/oil_filter_debate.htm

Thank you all very much for the input regarding the Green Diamond oil filter. I have also been continuing my research. I have not yet purchased the oil filter canister as I was not sure how much it would help extend engine life because it is a by-pass system. I'm also of the mind set that any filtration is better than none.

I'm thinking that my truck will probably do around 1,000 miles per year, at the most. The engine underwent a rebuild around 48,000 miles without a filter and that seemed a bit early. After all the post inputs I think I have enough information to go forward and install a filter.

Again, Thank you all,

Bobby K1

If you are not concerned about oringality. I recommend the "Spinner" centrifical bypass filter. Spinner is a brand name sold in North America by TF Hudgin. The industrial version requires no air system to work, but does require a good drain path to the pan as it relies on gravity to get the oil back. This makes them more difficult to install as the location becomes more critical.As long as you have about 30 psi of oil pressure, they do a very good job of cleaning the oil. Many of the British buses I worked on had only this type of bypass filter, no full flow. We never lost an engine due to a lube failure or dirt in the oil.
With such low mileage expectations, moisture in the oil and the sludge and acid that come with it, will be a much bigger concern then dirt. A good 180 or 192 deg thermostat and a PCV system will go a long way in keeping the moisture out of the oil. When in doubt change it more often, on a time schedule rather than by how many miles it has gone.

Thanks on the tip regarding spinner type. I may keep it as original as possible. Having worked so many with bypass filters would you recommend a multi viscosity oil such as 10W40 ?

Bob k

10W-40 is a fine choice. oil filter type has no effect on viscosity selection. The filter type could conceivably be a factor in the type of oil. Oil falls into two types, one keeps the dirt in suspension and trys to "clump" dirt together so it can be removed by a full flow oil filter. The other type does not. With just a bypass filter you would prefer the dirt to fall to the bottom of the sump and not stay in suspension. The first type is called "detergent" oil, although that name is misleading. The second is called "non-detergent". The problem is that it is hard to find modern, quality, non-detergent oil. I use a good quality detergent with my old trucks that only have a bypass filter. I add a PCV system and change the oil.

How would one go about installing a PCV system on a Green Diamond ?

Thanks,
Bob K

I don't have a GRD so don't know the exact things you will need, but basically, you need to supply filtered air into the crankcase (most commonly done at the fill tube) seal off the road draft tube, and install a fitting in the tappet cover (side cover) for the PCV valve. The valve is connected to engine vacuum at the manifold.
My BLD's were easyer to do because they already had a rudimentary breather system from the start. They had the oil fill with a wire mesh filter and the top of the valve cover was "vented" to the clean side of the air cleaner with a 3/8" tube. The hope was the engine would draw in fumes with the intake air. All I had to do was replace the line that went to the air cleaner with a PCV valve and route it to the vacuum port on the manifold.
Since the GRD was not designed by IHC, I don't think it had this venting system, and used a road draft tube instead.