48 KB-5; GRD 233 Head Bolts

'48 KB-5 winch truck: Finished with like new rebuild of front end and suspension (only rear leaf spring bushings remaining), rebuilt/sleeved brake cylinders/master cylinder, re-shod brake linings all way round, new brake lines, new fuel line, cleaned and painted fuel tank, 6 new 20" tires, etc. Father-in-law and I had stogies lit for the first drive. Wouldn't start where it was running smooth in the shop the day before. Coolant in the cylinders. Can get head gasket material from NAPA for $18 so will likely manufacture own head gasket if can't find one for reasonable price ($175 ain't reasonable --- yet). Wouldn't object to purchasing one, just can't find one for less. Copper water jacket seals hardest part but father-in-law thinks we can handle that (the "yet" part of "reasonable"). What NAPA doesn't have are head bolts. Existing ones are rusted to point of losing diameter so can't reinstall. I don't know about the necessary material or grade for head bolts on an old engine such as this. Would grade 5 or grade 8 bolts be fine? Are head bolts made with special material for the expansion/contraction from heating/cooling and to stand up to the coolant (appear to be installed through water jackets), any other considerations? I can't seem to locate a source specifically for GRD 233 head bolts. Anyone have a source?

Anyone have input? -- looked through the forum, saw discussions on head gasket replacement, but didn't see anything regarding the bolt source.

I think you need correct head bolts. Even if they are used. These aren't "TTY" torque to yield bolts...so a good used set should be OK.
I learned from an old-time engine- rebuilder that sometimes hardware store bolts just aren't appropriate, grade 8 or not. I think this is another instance.
I personally have had trouble with GRD head bolt threads (in the block) not holding a bolt at torque.
In other words, stripped threads in the head bolt holes.
Did you have trouble torquing the bolts initially?
With all the old IHC engines being yanked you should be able to locate a set here or elsewhere.
Good luck.

Check to make sure you had no fluid in the holes for the bolts, could keep them from fully seating. Check with this guy about cost of a new gasket. http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/ He is a good guy.

I have some used head bolts. Sent you a pm.
I just realized that you have a GRD233 and the bolts I have are from a GRD213. They may not be the same?
Bob

A 214 and a 233 use the same head bolts. Torque the head bolts to 65 ft lbs in 2 steps, 35 then 65. Then retorque them after it has been run.
Bill

A lesson learned the hard way: always run a tap throught the headbolt holes and blow clear with compressed air before assembly. Not only will it allow the head to be torqued correctly, you will thank yourself if a head bolt snaps, you can back out the broken bolt no problem. Don't ask how I came by this knowledge, just know it is worth knowing .

Had not done anything to the engine except carb kit, plugs, points, condenser, coil, new 8 V battery, prior to the head gasket going out. I got the truck not quite a year ago and with the ignition and carb parts, the motor ran like a top, just a little bit smokey, but not abnormally so. Ran it quite a bit at idle and warm up rev's, but hadn't driven it an inch. Figured the rings would loosen up once it got under load rolling down the road with a few heating/cooling cycles. Sequence of events was that the truck was started and rolled out the of the shop. Clutch engagement was too high on the pedal so slipped and wouldn't roll well under power. Part of the repairs was fixing an old repair on the clutch linkage, so there wasn't enough adjustment. Cut additional threads on the new repair. While trying to determine the clutch condition (revving up and dumping clutch just a little) I think the motor heated up a bit more that it did idling/rev'ing without load and allowed the old bolt torque/gasket combination to allow the coolant to leak into cylinders. (Clutch appears to be fine for now, by the way). Next day, after the linkage fixed and clutch adjusted, got set up for the first drive (could just about hear the "fat lady" -- hence previously mentioned stogies, which got smoked anyway!) and that is when the water in the cylinders exhibited itself. When taking off the head, found that re-torqueing the old bolts likely wouldn't have done much good. They were very tight and came loose with quite a snap, didn't break though. Found quite a bit of carbon on some of the bolts, likely and indication of the source of some of the smoke, and all but cylinder 1 (if that it the cylinder at front) had coolant in the cylinder. The corrosion is that flaky black sooty gritty crap, some bolts not black but rusty/flaky crap that kind of flicks off in little chunky squares leaving the bolt surface pitted. (technical terms!)

I contacted Olsen Gaskets, per Ibesq's recommendation. They were pleasant on the phone and had one in stock for $82.50, wellll, that ain't $175 and has quite a bit less risk than making own (read that aggravation for my father-in-law!, although there is no doubt he would be successful), so I ordered one, plus the thermostat housing gasket. Should be at the house in about a week. I'll try to remember to post how it turns out.

Am discussing a partial set of used head bolts with Captainbob, anyone else have some more that are in good shape? I need some more. None of those that came out of my engine are in what I would consider good condition.

Would think that you might be able to find a suitable replacement with taking an old one in and comparing? Chasing the threads in the holes is an excellent Idea. Making sure that there is NO water in the holes when tightening down is also a good thing to insure. Doing the recommended tightening sequence and all is good to follow. Before you go to all that trouble, put a machinist rule/straight edge on the block to insure flatness, and also on the head to make sure you have no warp-age. Better to check those now than put it all together and have it still leak. If head is warped but can be shaved great, if warped and can not be, I am sure someone has a head. Just my thoughts.

Just an addition to the discussion regarding head gasket replacement. I found a Marine Corps Manual online that has what appears to be useful information for the GRD engines. Those that have been on this site for awhile probably have it but it may be useful for Oldihc rookies such as myself. I found it at:

http://olive-drab.com/archive/IH_trucks ... b_10-2.pdf

Thank you! That's cool!