OldIHC

DuPont 7410 (IH50) is finally on the major portions of the frame. I’m pretty pleased with the color.

Thats looks sharp. I like the color...
Keep posting love to check out your build..

Have fun with it !

The subframe and front springs are installed. However, the subframe might have to come out again in order to install the steering box. Sequencing is important I suppose, but I’ll burn that bridge when I’m on it.

I’m looking forward to installing the new radiator from The Brassworks in Paso Robles, California. The shop did an outstanding job. New round-tube core and tanks (period correct). The upper portion of the shroud was about the only thing worth saving. A new bottom portion of shroud was fabricated and riveted to the upper portion. Brassworks also remanufactured the support cross member. I’m very pleased with their work.

I’ll get the steering box disassembled and cleaned up next.

Water pump is back together. I had to remanufacture one half with the Bridgeport and lathe. Thankfully, the impeller was still serviceable.

Couple more photos...

I’m considering using a drip oiler on the water pump shaft. Is this a bad idea? The operator’s manual shows it was lubricated with a grease cup (one turn per day). Any thoughts on using an oiler with water soluble oil?

Second photo shows my setup for cleaning up the bore on the impeller.

The three big rear suspension springs are installed. Nice to get the frame off the jack stands.

I also got the starting crank installed after cleaning and blueing with Brownells Oxpho-Blue. No paint on the crank; just the gun blue. The engine dropped in easily and probably won’t come out again. Different story on the radiator, it’s just in for test fit and hose fabrication. Clutch plates and flywheel are out for re-lining.

Great to see a real antique being restored. Your workmanship and photos are inspiring. Looking forward to the next installment.

Liking your restoration I am doing a H at the moment but with the covid lockdown here in Victoria Australia its come to a stop.

Since anything worth doing is worth overdoing; I decided to re-line the clutch pack with fresh friction pads. ‘Capital Clutch and Brake’ located in Sacramento California did the job for me. They did really nice work and I plan to have them re-line the four brake bands as well.
I’m looking for a suitable replacement throw-out bearing next.

Upside down crossmember:

I finally caught on to something. I’ve been wondering why one of the aft most crossmembers was bolted to the frame rails rather than riveted. Curiosity got the best of me and I began looking at examples online in greater detail. I’ve determined that someone (great grandfather or grandfather) took the time to flip the crossmember upside down. I see now, this was done to accommodate the large crosscut saw that was installed.
Clearance was needed to move the drive shaft from the differential up to the saw. The curve on the member should be on the bottom. Apparently the crossmember was removed and reinstalled upside down during the modifications. I am grateful it wasn’t just torched away as one might expect.
I’m thinking I should flip it back to its’ factory position as the geometry for the brake controls is affected.