1917 model F


The place to put your 1940 and older "Build Off" story.

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Sun Dec 20, 2020 2:28 pm

Re: 1917 model F

Transmission tear-down:

Now that the engine is sorted out and running, I’m working my way aft on the vehicle.

I spent a few hours scraping years of goo and grease from the transmission case. The shift mechanism was free and functional, but the handbrake cross-shaft was rusted tight. I have been soaking these mechanisms for several months with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I think this helped, but the handbrake cross-shaft was still tight. I was finally able to free things up with a bit of heat from the acetylene torch and wicking in candle wax.

All that overflow of grease and oil kept things pretty well preserved inside. I’m not seeing any damage. There was still a serviceable amount of heavy oil inside, and at the correct level; halfway up on the countershaft. Love the smell of that old oil. The gears look good so far. One bearing has some barely noticeable flat spots on the tapered rollers requiring replacement.

The main shaft and forks are out. I’ll continue with the disassembly and get the countershaft out next.
Attachments
76D5450A-3075-4240-92F5-E523BA248AC3.jpeg
Main shaft and forks as installed
2B9FB069-78F6-4B42-BFD0-015D34394CBA.jpeg
Output shaft
E7763BF2-C109-47E7-93E1-E6BE162B3CA4.jpeg
Top cover and shift finger
CD35481C-72C6-4E12-BF5D-C78F5F7211D4.jpeg
Transmission
Last edited by TimAkin on Sun Dec 27, 2020 12:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Sun Dec 20, 2020 4:25 pm

Re: 1917 model F

Because of the central position of oxygen, neither acetone or diethyl ether is a polar substance, and both dissolve oils effectively. Acetone serves as an ingredient in commercial preparations designed to remove excess oil from oily skin.
ATF and acetone do not mix to form a working rust penetrant. ATF may work better on its own.
The WD40 company make several great products for rust pentation.
https://www.wd40.com/products/
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
"No amount of evidence will persuade an idiot"
- Mark Twain

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Sun Dec 20, 2020 6:34 pm

Re: 1917 model F

nikkinutshop wrote:Because of the central position of oxygen, neither acetone or diethyl ether is a polar substance, and both dissolve oils effectively....
ATF and acetone do not mix to form a working rust penetrant. ATF may work better on its own.


Perhaps that explains why I can see the acetone boiling out of the ATF mixture. I’ve been using whatever the oldtimers recommend. And I can’t tolerate the smell of PB Blaster. WD 40 has a nice odor to me. Perhaps I should check out their line of penetrating fluids.

Thanks for the link.

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Sat Jan 09, 2021 11:40 am

Re: 1917 model F

Wheels out for repair:

My wheels are in South Dakota for rebuilding; Hansen Wheel and Wagon Shop. I’ll keep them as originally delivered; solid hard rubber. After rebuild, they will receive fresh vulcanized rubber on the steel wheels.

The transmission is ready for reassembly. I’ll be doing some of that work today. No foreseeable issues there. I might turn out a couple new bushings for the shift slide-bar. I’ll follow my heart and see how things fit up.
Attachments
0990D0FE-3C50-4DDD-920E-8A604C921A26.jpeg
Wheels ready for shipment
C46C1B46-731E-4876-A60B-6D7DA703C0E6.jpeg
Crating wheels
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 1028

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:20 am

Location: Melbourne Australia

Post Sun Jan 10, 2021 1:34 am

Re: 1917 model F

Tim

Great effort my wheels are out to be rebuilt also.

I took all the old rubber off first and had the new rubber installed. Wheels will be rebuilt with new steel inner band and the completed outer rimswith rubber will be pressed onto them.

Trevor Davis
Attachments
50673302_799734477047286_1098146146003451904_n cropped.jpg
New rubber installed
20180707_170827_resized_1.jpg
Wheels undercoated to be sent for re rubberring
20150303_144106.jpg
removing the old rubber. Found the best way was to heat up inside of rim with oxy/acy this made it easier to get the old stuff off. If you live rural the best way is to build a fire on the inside and let it melt away the old "Bakerlight type product"
http://www.vihtr.com
Veteran International Harvester Truck Registry
https://www.facebook.com/groups/316122235181405/
International Harvester Trucks Pre 1940

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Sun Jan 10, 2021 10:28 am

Re: 1917 model F

Thanks slospeed.

I hesitated to do much disassembly on the wheels and never realized there was an inner steel band on the rim. It is a mystery to me how those heavy tires (rubber on steel) can hold fast to the wood felloes. I understand the shrink fit of a thin buggy tire/rim, but these truck tires are massive.

Your rims are looking good. I like the painting jig. Thanks for your photos.

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Sun Jan 17, 2021 2:24 pm

Re: 1917 model F

Transmission installed:

The transmission work was pretty straightforward. Most of the work was cleaning and inspecting. Second gear had some minor chipping on the teeth. I’ll be careful with that gear when operating. I turned a new bronze bushing for the external shift slide bar (see photo below).

I found the design of the bearing end caps to be a bit complicated. The shafts are mounted in tapered roller bearings (Timken). This requires the end-play be adjustable. Rather than using shims to set shaft end-play, the designers went with a threaded arrangement. The threaded end cap assembly exerts pressure on the bearing cup (outer race) effectively moving the cup axially within the end cap. Once preload is set, it is retained by a notched ring and lock plate. The factory peened the retainer ring to the adjusting nut, however, I added a few small spot welds for better security.

I hope this makes some sense. I was scratching my head trying to understand the end-caps. During disassembly, what looked like a single machined part was actually an assembly of two. Maybe this will help someone.
Attachments
02A5DB8B-0C55-44E6-8C04-418B8636402E.jpeg
New bushing installed on shift slide-bar
20213D71-4B0F-4732-8DB0-52812279D441.jpeg
Spot welds on retainer ring
26A3A64E-8BC6-4E38-B013-4549EC310B0D.jpeg
Clean case and fresh coat of Glyptal
E4872AD9-E38E-4EBD-8584-820C4661694F.jpeg
Transmission installed

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Tue Feb 23, 2021 11:29 pm

Re: 1917 model F

Clutch and throughout bearing work:

One more machining operation should complete the clutch pack reconditioning. I’ll need to bore out the housing a bit to accommodate the larger race cup. The original throughout bearing was unserviceable and I was unable to find a replacement of the same dimensions. I’m going with a Timken JM612949 tapered roller.

I also got busy on the lathe and turned out a new button for the hand brake and choke knob. And a week of relatively warm weather allowed me to get some paint on some remaining parts.
Attachments
D037FD4C-E9A9-4224-9C7D-CFB2135D856D.jpeg
Miscellaneous clutch and transmission ready for final assembly
1788C723-4EA9-49A3-9C57-3ACF32BE2703.jpeg
Getting clutch housing set up for boring bar operation

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Wed Mar 03, 2021 9:24 pm

Re: 1917 model F

Clutch and transmission installed:

The main clutch is installed. The clutch failure might have been the reason the vehicle was parked 65 years ago. The throughout bearing was destroyed and one of the three big springs was broken. All is well now and I’m pleased with the function.

Power now flows through the transmission to the u-joint on the output shaft. The transmission is functioning normally and shifts easily. Standard 3 speeds forward and one reverse. Hand brake function is restored and the foot brake (service brake) is connected. “All steel from the pedal to the wheel” - no hydraulics.
Attachments
7AA3FA99-23D6-4EDE-9FD9-9CBF26ADFC49.jpeg
Brake bands after relining
544F49CD-861D-43DF-AEDE-465892E664DC.jpeg
Power flow through the transmission
01686F37-67FE-496E-8FC0-2A85757DB533.jpeg
Progress 03Mar2021

Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

Posts: 39

Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:49 am

Location: Placerville, CA

Post Fri Mar 12, 2021 11:31 pm

Re: 1917 model F

Getting the clutch repaired and installed was another milestone. Second to hearing the engine running just a few months ago. Here’s a quick video (2 minutes) showing some of the machining and parts required.

The link should work, but if not just search for “1917 International Harvester: Clutch” on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/DBBIw3Fxe0M
Attachments
CBD76010-10A5-473C-92B3-106761D6D42D.jpeg
Clutch pack
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