OldIHC

Brighad...this is a case where you should either rebuild the generator yourself or have someone do it...but stay stock?
I've had luck bolting on a "generator" pulley on alternators and staying with stock belt. The electrical conversion is easy...the tension part of the installation is easy to make.
Why two grooves?

The air pump is gear driven, it bolts right into the transmission and there's a lever on the pump to engage it when needed.

The generator works but it doesn't give enough juice to the battery when its just running, thought it would be best to install an alternator and leave the generator in place to run the water pump. The generator is gear driven, the first belt is for the fan and the second would drive the alternator.

Ohhh...my B-3 is like that...gear driven generator. I get it.

Well , back at it.
The machinist has had his work cut out for him, I've been keeping him busy.
Replaced the brass bushings and honed out and installed a steel bushing in the front axel. Not bad for a 92 year old truck. I just pushed the King pins out with ease, only one side had wear in the axel. Had all the bushings replaced, weren't too bad overall.
I reused the King pins with a fancy little bearing and two shims for the lower and one of the old brass plates fit nicely for a shim on the upper. Now the front end is on bearings, not sitting on 4 brass plates with grease between. Should make for better steering and less strain on the steering box.
Front Spindles at King Pin-
1 Bearing by Koyo- T711855311 Lube code 125 per side
2 Shims by Koyo- T711579711 Lube code 125 per side
This replaces the Brass lube shims, reduces stress on the steering box.

The lower bushing in the steering box was eaten up and tore a fair bit of material of the end of the steering shaft. Needs to build up and turn the end of the shaft as well as a new brass bushing.
The steering arm was in good shape, he just touched up the pins and put new bushings in.
The springs in the steering shaft were broken, he installed shorter springs and made spacers to suit. Now there is less play in the steering, should be easier to control.

The drive shaft ends were oblong, he built them up and turned them to suit the U-joint. Had to cut off the Yoke to turn the ends, then he re-welded the Yoke and balanced the shaft. Luckily i had parts from the wreck, i was able to build two good u-joint sets.

Currently rebuilding the water pump, the shaft and bushing was still excellent, just need a new squishy compression material at end of shaft to seal. Says its an easy job, just needs the right material.

The rear passenger’s axle shaft had a big piece of steel missing on the spindle, luckily the shaft in my wreck had the same axel. Simple swap.
The rear bearings for the outer shaft were 1/8th narrower, had the machinist make shims to suit.

Had the brake bands blasted, re-painted and re-lined.

The machinist repaired the outer ring and made new sprockets for the interior of my window regulators, good for another 92 years.

Installed the rebuilt rear end. Just need to set the balance pin into position.

Sandblasted some panels and the Frame. I put POR15 on the panels to prevent rust in the future.

Do you have the stock rims on the S26 truck? I am looking at an S26 project but the outer rims are shot. From looking at your pictures it looks like you have a locking ring on the front rim but not the rear. Would be interested to know what you are running for rims. Also can you tell me what size tires are on your truck? Thank You.

There stock rims on the truck, the compression ring is on front and back. I will check later on the Tire size and post it for you.

The tire size is 6.00 - 20 Silvertown Goodrich