Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread


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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue May 19, 2020 12:45 pm

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

Sounds like a great plan! I'll be looking forward to updates, and lots of pictures.

Dean
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Post Tue May 19, 2020 3:31 pm

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

Did you ever do anything with the tailgate information you requested and I sent to you?
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
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Post Tue May 19, 2020 6:13 pm

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

nikkinutshop wrote:Did you ever do anything with the tailgate information you requested and I sent to you?


Not yet. Working out the tailgate before I get the truck rolling seems to me to be putting the cart before the horse. But I plan to use it.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Wed May 20, 2020 8:05 am

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

Buzzman, your plan of action sounds somewhat like what I went through. Your parts and pieces are not the same parts and pieces I used and that’s not a bad thing. The one step I’d like to suggest is to locate the centerline of your axles and scribe them on the frame so that once the originals are gone, you know exactly where they were for reference in putting the new pieces in. When I say scribe them, I mean to not use chalk or any other marking device that could get smudged or wiped off. Use some sharp scribing device to leave more or less permanent indications on the frame.

Good to see you getting going on your build.
L110 owner since 1974, finally rebuilt 2014.

Yard Art
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Post Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:44 pm

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

Very good advice on permanently mark the centerlines. Stop me if this is well known: Having the c-l let's you do a "string alignment" technique that is very simple and pretty accurate. Set up two lines parallel to the c-l outside the track width and then can measure for equal distance. Use the suspension mounting points as the work points. Need a plumb bob and a chalk line to snap. So a leaf spring forward mount has a c-l to the forward mount on the other side, as does the rear. Plumb bob to the floor, find centers L to R via the floor, mark and then use the p-b to find the spot to mark on the chassis. If there is no cross member directly above, do F and R c-l, snap chalk the c-l F to R so there is a continuous line under the truck and then transfer up. A truer method than doing a measurement across the frame rails. Racers did this for decades and now laser stuff got cheap, but it's the same process. Also good for checking toe with another twist added.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Jun 06, 2020 8:19 am

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

Vintagehistoric. If you’ve used that method before and it works, then go for it. It’s all relative to what kind of accuracy you’re looking for. As long as the frame is square and the mounting points are at factory positions all should be OK. Remember, though, this is an old vehicle. Are you certain the frame is still factory square, has it ever been involved in a frame “tweaking” accident. How many times has it been driven over a curb or bolder. The one thing I always had to remember as an industrial designer is that what works in theory needs to be tempered with the realities of application. And yes, the factory that built your truck dealt with allowable tolerances. When I first started as a piping designer, in 1974, my job mentor told me that, “we make drawings to 1/16” tolerance, the pipe fitter measures and marks with chalk and cuts with a torch.” What he was trying to tell me was do the best you can, as accurately as you can, but expect some cumulative errors are going to creep in. I think you should know there could be some cumulative errors installed on your truck. (That’s why alignment shims were invented.)
Last edited by WEW51L110 on Sat Jun 06, 2020 8:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
L110 owner since 1974, finally rebuilt 2014.

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Post Sat Jun 06, 2020 8:25 am

Re: Buzzman's '52 L-112 Build Thread

WEW51L110 wrote:Vintagehistoric. If you’ve used that method before and it works, then go for it. It’s all relative to what kind of accuracy you’re looking for. As long as the frame is square and the mounting points are at factory positions all should be OK. Remember, though, this is an old vehicle. Are you certain the frame is still factory square, has it ever been involved in a frame “tweaking” accident. How many times has it been driven over a curb or bolder. The one thing I always had to remember as an industrial designer is that what works in theory needs to be tempered with the realities of application. And yes, the factory that built your truck dealt with allowable tolerances. When I first started as a piping designer, in 1974, my job mentor told me that, “we make drawings to 1/16” tolerance, the pipe fitter measures and marks with chalk and cuts with a torch.” What he was trying to tell me was do the best you can, as accurately as you can, but expect some cumulative errors are going to creep in. I think you should know there could be some cumulative errors installed on your truck.

Ha Ha, When I was delivering mobile boilers to a customer that used them yearly to meet a peak demand. They always wanted me to place the boiler/trailer combo in the exact same position so they didn't have to make new pipe. How the heck you are going to get a overlength/ over width, trailer/ boiler combo that weights over 88K to within a 1/16" tolerance was just no going to happen. Every year we would have the same talk, it always ended with steam pipe is cheap, get over it!
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