OldIHC

Just wanted to point this out, for no particular reason:

SUBARU spelled backwards is U R A BUS.

Freedom!



**** that thing is big. Tape measure says it should fit




I need to pick up a trans (manual) then I can start mocking it up in the truck.

Finally got the other projects booted out and the IH is back in!

Picked up a trans last week finally. T45 from a 2000 mustang.



Shoved the engine/trans in. Ford 5.4 DOHC/32 valve w/ Australian Falcon Boss intake.



Had to do some cutting on the firewall, but that was expected.



Since a lot of the floor just bolts in, I only had to cut a little bit on the firewall for now. Shifter ended up about 4" behind the original opening.



Wow, that fit in there perfect.



Now the problems

Oil filter wants to occupy the same area as the steering shaft



Both manifolds are resting on the control arms. Steering shaft is going to have some tight angles on it to get around this manifold.




The guys swapping this engine in to mustangs use the Cobra manifolds a lot of the time and I think at least the drivers side is tucked in a little tighter. Going to study pics and see how much tighter it actually is. A used pair of them would probably be about $100.

This is probably where the engine is going to end up. Waiting on a set of headers before I make things permanent.

Also hung the front sheet metal back on to see how I was looking for room. The answer is plenty



Lots of room in front for the radiator/fans and a/c condenser. I WILL have a/c haha.

One problem with this intake manifold is the throttle body that bolts right on is drive by wire. I've been doing a bunch of reading on this and apparently nobody has found a cable throttle body that just bolts on. Sigh. The most common solution that folks are doing is welding a new flange on for the standard oval throttle body found on various fords.


I hesitated a bit before this. Oh this is expensive, oh what am I doing, oh god SLICE .... ok the hard part is done now :laughing:

New flange welded on (forgot to take a pic of it before).



Another issue is the DBW cars just use the throttle body/ecu for controlling idle, so I had to add a normal IAC valve too.

I had a brain fart and welded it on 180* out. No big deal except the connector points straight in to the firewall. Fortunately I can just get a different valve that has the connector pointing up instead of out the side. I'll need to run a hose from the nipple over to the intake before the throttle body.




Kind of want to make a clear plenum for this, seems a shame to hide this sexyness

Headers came in. Not as huge of an improvement as I was hoping on the drivers side. At least it isn't sitting on the control arm anymore. Worst case I can probably cut and reweld the #1 primary to come up at more of an angle before it turns to the rear.

I can fit both headers in without having to lift the engine or anything stupid like that. I need to get new hardware as the original nuts rusted to the studs. Fortunately every single one of them screwed out and I don't have to drill/tap any of them






Pass side, although clearance wasn't bad on this side with the manifold.

My test wheel showed up today. 18x8. Unmodified, it would need a 4" spacer to fit correctly




Little bit of grinding and lot of BFH action and the center is out of the rim. This rim if from a 2015 police interceptor Taurus and this center stamping is 1/4" steel





I flipped the center and now have a custom back spaced wheel. I still need to true it and reweld the center in place. Plus a new valve stem hole. Then sand blasted and repaint it.



*edit*

Stuck it on the rear to see how it looked.



*double edit*

Pulled a spring off the front to see how it fit at full stuff. I think I can deal with this

So what back space are you going with? Like has been said, lots of wheels out there to fit the 5 bolt pattern, just having the clearance from face of drum or bolt surface to truck to clear and not rub, That is the RUB!

It is very shallow, somewhere around 2.5" of BS. It fits the rear very nicely but the front looks like it may need to come in about 1/2-3/4". Unfortunately I can't move the hoop in any more than it is now because of how it is designed.

I need to pull a front spring out and cycle the suspension before I go any further on it.

This is impressive. I am reminded of how I felt when did the surgery on an R120 to install a 6.9 V8 Diesel. I like those Ford modular engines.