OldIHC

https://youtu.be/piPq01w1YHo
This is my 4bta. Everything , including the injection is new on this engine. https://youtu.be/_U5M6eIQpZk
https://youtu.be/nUiDQd2NZpU

I finally got it over to the garage to start taking it apart. Removed the rear bumper, running boards, fuel tank, rear fenders, and bed. Going to work on the bed first so I rolled the truck back out for now.



Frame is pretty clean. Too bad I won't be using it. One thing to note is the dakota has way more kick up in the back than the IH (dakota is in the background) which will be an issue later. Most folks raise the bed floor but since I plan on using this as a truck, I really don't want to do that. Going to have to get the cab and bed on the dakota frame and just see how much of an issue is actually is.



Front of the bed. Ew.

Bottom of the bed. I was curious how this was put together/how easy it would be to raise the floor if I had to. Wow did they spot weld the crap out of this thing.

The repair for the front of the box was easy. I used my MILLER plasma and a straight edge to cut the offending metal away. The same plasma machine and straight edge cut off a piece of 16 gauge steel and I butt-welded it to the original bulk-head and then to the lower front of the box.
A good start is to take the box out for metal cleaning so it is easier to see what you will be dealing with. I use, http://www.osairstrip.ca/ Try to avoid sand blasting. You may start a rusting problem that cannot be stopped.
That box looks really good and may be one of the best I have seen.

I have the exact same repair to perform on my box.....but you might get to yours before i do. should be one of the easier repairs that i have done on my truck. Although, I'm not sure, does the front actually attach to the floor itself? I dont think it does, but i am trying to decide if i should do that.

Keep posting pics!....thanks!

The bulkhead, aka, front is/was spot welded to the lower front cross support bar of the box. The rusted rag that was left on this cross support bar was ground off. I prefer a WALTER flap grinding disc. https://www.walter.com/en_CA
The WALTER is the most expensive and they last many times longer than any of the other brands. I suggest that you buy 40 grit for the heavy cuts and then reduce to a finer grit. Unlike the others, WALTER cuts much cooler.
In the parts book picture, the #20 panel, (bulkhead) is spot-welded to the %19 sill.

This seems like something I need in my life, any idea where to get one? (the book where you snagged the picture from)



I was about out of cut off and flap wheels so I ordered a pile of them from Roark Supply for this project. 30 flap wheels in 40,80, and 120 plus 50 cut off wheels.

Welded a patch in to the front of the bed. Not done yet, but getting there.



Also removed the backing plate from the spare tire carrier since I won't be putting it back on. They must have paid IH employees by the spot weld on these trucks. Geez. Also note the cracks around the upper mount. There is another at the lower front mount.

You have more than enough welding on the bottom of the patch. water will go to that area and you may want to leave a place for it to run out.
On my fix in that area, I punched 3/8" holes in the patch panel and welded the panel to the cross beam through the holes. I used .023 wire with a 75-25% shield gas. The welder is a MILLER-Matic 200.
Our Canadian trucks have and INTERNATIONAL stamped into the front bulkhead.

Yea, I wasn't planning on welding across the bottom any more. Just need to go across the top and catch spots I missed. If I was going for an original look I would have spot welded the patch. For what I'm putting together this is fine.


I have a Millermatic 210 mig and a Dynasty 200 tig w/water cooler. Plus a 375 plasma. Team blue is well represented in my garage