The Mater build...


The place to put your L, R and S "Build Off" story.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 142

Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am

Post Tue Oct 13, 2015 10:31 pm

Re: The Mater build...

There was some interest in how the axles were adapted to the stock IHC springs. Note the shims on the sides of the spring pack, the lack of the caster shim (that makes this an interesting truck to drive at speed), and the steering bits. The one with the spring lying on its side, I couldn't rotate. Sorry. That makes the shims more clear. The steering is instructive: note how heavily built the mount is.
And now enjoy!
Attachments
PA100014.JPG
steering mount
PA100012.JPG
note the lack of caster shim...
PA100010.JPG
spring shims
Mike

I'm from the top half of the bottom third...and you?

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 142

Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am

Post Sat Nov 14, 2015 3:28 am

Re: The Mater build...

So...It's been a couple weeks, and I have some time to catch back up.
When I pulled the 264, the first hookup was tail-heavy. I hadn't drained the block 'cuz I didn't want it freezing while the changeover to whatever replacement that I could find was in progress. So I wasn't surprised when bright green antifreeze spilled out of the back water jacket ports. Okay, cool...So I re-hook and get slightly nose-heavy, and dirty green antifreeze spills out the front ports. This is something I've not seen before :t1812: , and I file it away while I finally get the old broke engine out and on the ground.
Having cogitated on the thing a while, I realized that the connection from the block to the heater is right next to #5, the one that went to that great piston heaven in the sky. I think I had a huge airlock in the rear of the engine, because of the heater hose routing. It was routed up to and zip-tied to, the air cleaner on the firewall. I think the engine heated up in the rear cylinders and didn't get sufficient coolant flow thru the head. And...POOF! there goes a hard working, unassuming, innocent piston. All because I overlooked an obvious boo-boo in hose routing :t0117: .
I guess the lesson here would be to keep obvious high spots out of the coolant lines. And if there's no way to keep a high spot from happening, add a bleed tap that can be 'burped' from time to time. Speedway, Jeg's and Summit all have them.
So then: thus endeth the latest installment, until I can get some pictures of my 'new' Chevy 250's mounts posted. There's been some major head scratching on that front, and a couple false starts, to boot.
Mike

I'm from the top half of the bottom third...and you?

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:58 pm

Re: The Mater build...

I would doubt that the heater hose position had anything to do with the a very old piston coming to the end of service life. Your engine longevity and performance would not be changed if there was no cab heater installed. While the cab heater does take heat from the coolant, it is not a significant amount. Presuming that the water pump is working as it should, there should be coolant circulation regardless of where the heater hose is routed.
Leaving coolant in the block will not improve the freezing situation over and engine that is dry inside. A dry and empty engine cooing system while getting cold enough to freeze water, will not be damaged by the temperature if the block cooling galleries are empty.
John Edward of Costa Mesa R&D has a fantastic video on piston history and development. https://youtu.be/nfPlZgKJSmA
His You Tube channel is a very good subscribe.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 142

Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am

Post Wed Dec 02, 2015 11:53 pm

Re: The Mater build...

Well then...After a couple weeks of nasty weather and bad timing, and some misadventure involving the world's worst Thanksgiving dinner, I'm back on track. I hope. :t0117:
The Chevy 250 has been set in place and waiting for mounts for about a month, during which time I've tried to resolve issues with welders, and the above travails. I am after all, working in the Big Sky Garage...nuthin' but a board fence and a tarp between me and the great outdoors. Weather WILL have its way from time to time...especially in eastern Montana...
Anyway, after some failed attempts to put together some mounts between storms, with scraps of steel I have around the workbench, I gave up and ordered the bits I need from Chassis Engineering, of West Branch IA. Total cost with shipping is USD 176.00, but they'll go together easily and get the job forwarded some. And it looks like by the time they get here, I'll have decent weather for a couple days. Maybe I can get the 250 tied down and get on with this. The tranny (SM465) still needs an inspection and new gaskets. Maybe bearings, but we'll see...one thing at a time. The intermediate driveshaft was thought to be a looming issue, but the 'shaft out of my Dad's '64 will be a direct fit. It's longer than the '56's by about 4" but all it'll take is new u-joints. The tranny came out of a swap my brother did involving a 454 into the '64.
After the engine/tranny combo is in place the next big stumbling block will be the clutch linkage, followed closely by the transfer case shift lever mounting. I'd love to put in a hydraulic clutch linkage, but the Finanzministerium (aka 'Better Half') is a bit reluctant to part with another 250 bucks if she doesn't have to. I think I can make the rod linkage work.
I'm toying with the idea of trading transfer cases. I've 2 besides the one in the '56: the one from my Dad's '64, and one from a '69 I had and parted out about 15 years ago. The '64's was rebuilt about a year before the engine swap happened. All of them look to be identical except for the shift linkages. But for now, the truck has to get back into service. I can swap the transfers any time...like maybe next summer.
Anyhow, that's where the project lies for now.
Mike

I'm from the top half of the bottom third...and you?

Site Admin
Site Admin

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Location: Nampa, Idaho

Post Sun Dec 06, 2015 12:05 pm

Re: The Mater build...

Sounds like you are making progress. Keep up the good work.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 142

Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am

Post Fri Dec 18, 2015 11:07 am

Re: The Mater build...

Well then...where to begin... :m03104:
I lost my weather window when CE sent the wrong frame adapters. I was charged for the 8" drop crossmember but received the weld-on ears, about 5" long. When I called about it the day after I got the shipment, CE's rep said there were none of the 8" drop in stock and it would take at least a day to get it made and shipped. They didn't want the wrong ears back...more to ship than they're worth, I guess. The engine side adapters fit well and the pads will be great, but the engine is still held in place with gravity (which fortunately never fails...)and good luck. But the weather with which Montana is (mostly) unjustly identified, changed and brought 4" snow and nasty ice buildup on the roads. However, when it became obvious the plans had come completely undone, I got a tarp and some short straps and covered up what I had, pending the next break in the weather. The pending work was covered a couple days before the weather hit, and the crossmember I ordered was delivered a couple days after the weather hit...Ain't it grand, how everything just goes completely to pieces sometimes? At least it'll be ready for the next window.
And, since I didn't take holiday pay for all the holidays I worked, I'll get 64 extra hours' pay on my next check. End of the fiscal year, don'cha know. :yay: Clear the books for the next round of yearly work/pay cycles. Maybe I'll be able to erect a shelter of sorts to get some protection from the weather. Anyway, that's where Mater is for now. Still twixt Heaven and Hell, as it were...
Mike

I'm from the top half of the bottom third...and you?

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 8936

Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm

Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Sat Dec 19, 2015 9:34 am

Re: The Mater build...

The material used to make the steering box mount may be heavy enough, but the welding is crap and needs redoing. Welding over corrosion is never a good thing.
The weld looks like the amperage was too low.
A bracket that will be subjected to repeated stress loading should have as few joints as possible. Welding should be the full length of any joint .
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 142

Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am

Post Sun Dec 20, 2015 3:16 pm

Re: The Mater build...

Thanks for the input on the steering gear mount bracket. I hadn't looked seriously at it, so I appreciate the critical look. While the rest of the rebuild is marinating, I'll pull the bracket and have one of the certified weldors here at the plant re-do the seams after it gets a good degreasing.
All of the criticism is justified.
Mike

I'm from the top half of the bottom third...and you?

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 8936

Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm

Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Sun Dec 20, 2015 3:39 pm

Re: The Mater build...

I would feel bad if you and the truck were damaged and my not saying something may have contributed.
If you have access to a blast cabinet,clean it up really well first.
Use only NEW grade 8 fasteners with fine threads. Hardened flat washers and Stover nuts are best. Nylock nuts are not as good and not recommended.
Use a torque wrench on all finally tightening of fasteners. Google for the correct numbers.
For better appearance, have all of the fasteners face the same way.
If all else fails, check out Paul Hogan's Welders Series. This guy makes wonderful stuff and might even do custom work. He is Canadian. Our dollar is at $0.70 USD and this gives an American shopper a 30% discount while buying Made in North America.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 142

Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:30 am

Post Mon Dec 21, 2015 3:05 pm

Re: The Mater build...

Where to start...Hmmm...
Well then: The last few days dealing with a layer of ice under 2" of melting snow has me thinking a Detroit Locker or (whatever the electric is called these days) E-locker might be a good thing to add to Mater along the way. After the thing's back on the road and proven, of course.
The truck I drive for my rounds as a power plant operator, is a 2011 Ford F250 4x4. Whoever spec'ed these trucks did some thinking. They're XL versions, but all the F250's have the E-locker as well as 4 wheel drive. In other words, everything possible that could be done, has been done to get us unstuck, or keep us from getting stuck in the first place. Barring bald stupidity, of course... :shock: That could never happen, right??
With the recent snow/get the roads all packed to ice/thaw/snow cycle we've had here in Southeast Montana, some of the roads/trails that we use are really treacherously slick. The E-locker has gotten me going several times when the unlocked diff has let me down. And maybe I'm spoiled now, but it sure is nice to twist a knob on the dash and suddenly be able to drive out of a snotty slick spot.
That convenience would be a good thing, but I also have experience (I really admire and respect the things that happen in a diff when the side gears are locked together!) with Detroits, that argues that the extra complexity of electricity (or air, as in ARB) is silly when everything else on the truck is basically bare-bones truck. You have what you need, and what The Law requires, but not a lot else. Not even a radio.
So, how thinketh the Forum? Detroit or E-locker or leave it alone?
Mike

I'm from the top half of the bottom third...and you?
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