1956 S-102 Build


The place to put your L, R and S "Build Off" story.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 458

Joined: Mon May 18, 2015 12:43 pm

Post Wed Mar 22, 2017 6:21 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

It would seem likely they used some standard rotors from some source and used the spacer to make it all align.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 130

Joined: Fri May 30, 2014 7:49 am

Post Sun Apr 02, 2017 8:54 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Kris, What master cylinder did you use that will mate up to the ihc pedals? Also are you using a shroud on your radiator? I have several extras...

Terrell
Columbia, Mo.

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Rookie

Posts: 23

Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 5:24 am

Post Mon Apr 03, 2017 12:39 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

I've spent 90 quality minutes reviewing the thread again, and printed a bunch of stuff from your photobucket account (the wiper change-over). You have documented this thing very well indeed, and made it possible to see what something SHOULD look like versus what it DOES look like. For this small service alone, you should be made a Knight of the realm, were that possible in the US...maybe move to Canada and try for it there?? :)
Anyway, this whole thing is looking great, and it'll be great to see it actually in use!

Thanks again for photographing everything so thoroughly!

Mike

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Post Mon Apr 03, 2017 1:19 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Regarding the ujoint angles for your axle/transmission, there will something different for each vehicle, though something the same wheelbase will probably be very similar. As implied during the great Q/A on this about midway thru the thread, the science has been known for a couple hundred years, and applied convincingly well on motorized vehicles for the last 100 or so: Tack the pads in place until you can get it at the final ride height, and set it after that has been decided.
The whole issue has to do with internal (to the ujoint) acceleration/deceleration at the top and bottom of the ujoint's rotation
as it rotates in use. There has to be some difference between top and bottom to allow the needle bearings in the joint cups to roll. Otherwise you get unusually high (or odd) wear of the joint and, often, vibration at odd speeds. A few degrees makes a huge difference. And sometimes the factory gets it wrong, if there are multiple carrier bearings involved in the driveline. If the driveline is dead straight, you'll have problems, and if the angles are outside where the joint can operate, there'll problems as well. If you've ever noted brinnelling in the joint cups, it's probably because there's not enough difference in angle between the trans (or carrier bearing) and the rear axle companion flange. The rollers just sit in place and vibrate, but don't roll. Occasionally you won't notice a thing until the yoke's joint cups have been worn thru and the yoke requires replacement. Think: those very long, 3 or 4 carrier bearing drivelines in school buses. The carrier bearings all have shims to get the angles right.
My 127" 4x4 will be different than your 118(?)" 4x2, both because it's longer, but also because it's taller overall as well as having an intermediate driveshaft between trans and transfer case. It probably weighs more as well and has taller tires. All these things figure into the final decision about where to set it.
There won't be a LOT of difference, but YOUR settings would probably be enough to cause some driveline issues with MY truck.

The point here is, each case will be slightly different and should be decided by someone familiar with getting it right. My 1st choice locally for advice would Inland Truck Parts, as they do drivelines for stretched frame OTR trucks and hotrod cars, both of which can be sensitive to getting it wrong. YMMV, as always!

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 160

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:19 pm

Location: Salem, Orygun

Post Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:46 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

As long as we're handing out 'atta boy' for KS, Freckles should get one too. Nice, understandable explanation of driveline basics for novice builders(like myself). Lots of good info and pics in the KS thread.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:31 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Terrell,
I'm using a remote master cylinder and am having to make a mount for it to go with the IH peddles. The master cylinder will fit in the same area down below next to the frame but the dual reservoir tanks will mount on the firewall. Seems to be a better idea than trying to fill a brake fluid tank mounted under the cab.
Also, I am not using a fan shroud because I don't plan on using the stock fan on my aluminum radiator, planning on going with my dual electric fans and they come with their own shrouds. Wish I was closer to you now as I see your getting rid of a few more parts I could use but I have since moved from Missouri to Arizona.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:36 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Freckles,
Thanks for the kind words about my build, I am taking my time on this truck and I always have to take a lot of pictures because sometimes I don't get back to this project in a timely manner. Yes, I forget how it all came apart and have to look back on my own pictures for reference. Lol To date I somewhere around 1200 pictures on my photobucket and not counting what I haven't uploaded yet from my phone. Someday I'll get these uploaded too.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:44 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

restoKB1 wrote:It would seem likely they used some standard rotors from some source and used the spacer to make it all align.


I figured out at one time what rotors they used, I'll have to look back at my notes. They will not tell you either, I asked them which rotors they used for their kit and all they said was a special order and I would have to buy them from them if I needed replacements. Yea, not thinking so. I did a lot of research after that statement because there is a stock number on the edge of the rotor and I found what they used. I just wanted to know for future reference when I have to replace my rotors since a lot of my parts are from different vehicles such as my 2000 Ford rear end with disk brakes. I'll look back and post what I found.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 8936

Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm

Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Sat Apr 15, 2017 12:11 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

https://www.iedls.com/#Power_Train

This link has all of the information for proper driveline set-up. No BS, just the good stuff.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Sat Apr 15, 2017 6:15 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

This is what I found when I put in the number on the side of the front disk brake rotor used by the kit "1984-1985 Ford Mustang L or GT
V8 - 5.0L vin F 302ci - TBI GAS OHV". Found this on the OReilly Auto Parts website.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240
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