1956 S-102 Build


The place to put your L, R and S "Build Off" story.

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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:14 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

KSever wrote:This is what I found when I put in the number on the side of the front disk brake rotor used by the kit "1984-1985 Ford Mustang L or GT
V8 - 5.0L vin F 302ci - TBI GAS OHV". Found this on the OReilly Auto Parts website.



Nice bit of detective work there!

I'm working on my own disc brake conversion as we speak. I suspect they use the 1/8" spacer just to get away from the larger factory diameter of the hub snout adjacent to the disc mounting surface. I'm currently working with a 12" rotor from a crown Vic. I chucked a hub up in the lathe to get that fillet to the proper dimensions to A) allow the rotor to seat on the flange and B) locate the rotor on the hub- no slop. I may end up machining the hub snout some more so that I could make a "hub-centric" ring to locate the wheels whatever they may be.
'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Fri Dec 29, 2017 10:32 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Haven’t updated this post for a while and I also see I lost all my photobucket pictures, not good. Been working installing my new tilt steering column and the T98 transmission. Need to cut out area that the column passes through the firewall and patch back in with sheet metal to mount the bottom column mount. Sure like the tilt and the new look.
Attachments
D7F6B112-8295-4DA4-8529-1B5713205B3D.jpeg
1AFF9DBB-305A-49CE-80F1-A5D4896B51B1.jpeg
75CFEB45-F4FD-4E30-8439-15B19ABFE42B.jpeg
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:43 am

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Looking snazzy!
'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 160

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:19 pm

Location: Salem, Orygun

Post Tue Jan 02, 2018 4:31 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Very nice column and wheel, Kris. What was your source for these goodies?

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Tue Jan 09, 2018 10:10 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Chicojohn wrote:Very nice column and wheel, Kris. What was your source for these goodies?


John, I got the column and steering wheel through speedway, they have a eBay site too with some special deals. Column has tilt, blinkers and hazard switch. I believe I got the 32” column. I would have to look at my receipt to be sure.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 160

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:19 pm

Location: Salem, Orygun

Post Wed Jan 10, 2018 3:44 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

John, I got the column and steering wheel through speedway, they have a eBay site too with some special deals. Column has tilt, blinkers and hazard switch. I believe I got the 32” column. I would have to look at my receipt to be sure.[/quote]

:D

Rookie
Rookie

Posts: 15

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 10:52 pm

Location: New Zealand

Post Sun Feb 02, 2020 10:52 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

VWJake wrote:
KSever wrote:This is what I found when I put in the number on the side of the front disk brake rotor used by the kit "1984-1985 Ford Mustang L or GT
V8 - 5.0L vin F 302ci - TBI GAS OHV". Found this on the OReilly Auto Parts website.



Nice bit of detective work there!

I'm working on my own disc brake conversion as we speak. I suspect they use the 1/8" spacer just to get away from the larger factory diameter of the hub snout adjacent to the disc mounting surface. I'm currently working with a 12" rotor from a crown Vic. I chucked a hub up in the lathe to get that fillet to the proper dimensions to A) allow the rotor to seat on the flange and B) locate the rotor on the hub- no slop. I may end up machining the hub snout some more so that I could make a "hub-centric" ring to locate the wheels whatever they may be.


So grateful for this thread and the information available in it. I am in New Zealand. I bought a set of front disc brakes from TSM. One rotor (while very tight) went on okay with a press. The other cracked because it was too tight. So I was pleased to find the reference here to the part number on the rim of the rotor, which shows up (here) as Lincoln Mk vii, and Mustang. So I should be able to buy another rotor here cheaper than going back to TSM. (It might need a little honing for the ID). Their instructions were also a bit whacko on fitting the product. They sent a new set of studs, but say to use the old ones if possible. The callipers are clearly GMC and pretty common too. Could have saved some coin if I had realised that.

I was also interested in the discussion as to where the spacers should go. I see where "KSever" believes they should go on the studs BEFORE the rotor is fitted. This is not what we thought and my mechanic and I argued about it. I said 'before' and he said 'after' (between the rotor and the wheel). So I emailed TSM and they said 'after', but added that it doesnt really matter. Personally I would rather they went behind the rotor. Dont want them in the way/falling off every time I take the wheel off and on. They are there to take up the space created by the non-threaded base of the studs. TSM called it the stud 'shoulder'. Any comments.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:20 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Grabel wrote:
I was also interested in the discussion as to where the spacers should go. I see where "KSever" believes they should go on the studs BEFORE the rotor is fitted. This is not what we thought and my mechanic and I argued about it. I said 'before' and he said 'after' (between the rotor and the wheel). So I emailed TSM and they said 'after', but added that it doesnt really matter. Personally I would rather they went behind the rotor. Dont want them in the way/falling off every time I take the wheel off and on. They are there to take up the space created by the non-threaded base of the studs. TSM called it the stud 'shoulder'. Any comments.


Actually, the spacer is used to center the rotor in the caliper. The spacer goes on before the rotor goes on. You'll find out when the wheel dont turn after you tighten down your lug nuts. It does matter where they go. TSM and I worked on different size shims a couple times, I had one of the first sets they made for the S pick up.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240

Rookie
Rookie

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Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 10:52 pm

Location: New Zealand

Post Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:44 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

That is very helpful.

Thank you very much.

Regards.

Rookie
Rookie

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Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 10:52 pm

Location: New Zealand

Post Tue Feb 25, 2020 7:57 pm

Re: 1956 S-102 Build

Just an update on fitting the TSM disc brakes to my Australian assembled S110.

Firstly the rotors were too tight on the stubs. One rotor was broken when my mechanic tried to press it on. I purchased another Ford rotor of the same number which was identical. We found that it needed just over 1.5mm ground out of the centre to allow it to fit over the stub. We also found that the wheel studs were 'only just' long enough to accommodate my Cragar wheels as well as the supplied spacer. We also found that the spacer had to go outside the rotors to successfully suit the callipers; which is at variance to KSevers experience. As I still have drum brakes on the rear we need to fit a proportioning valve to ensure enough grunt on the front discs. I have posted this because there may be others in Australia and New Zealand considering doing this upgrade to discs. There are certainly differences in the Australian assembled trucks to the USA built models including in the front suspension/steering/wheels assembly. I had also fitted a Toyota HiLux power steering unit with a shorter pitman arm in mine some years ago. That was a very simple change using a steel wedge to get the correct angle.
Another major difference in Aust assembled S110s is the cab. IHC vehicles in the 1950s were assembled in a Dodge/Chrysler/Fargo facility in Australia and some of the parts used were applied to all, including IH. While all the front panels are identical to US models the cab itself is entirely different. They used a Dodge/Fargo 'pilothouse' cab. It had split rear windows and different doors, door windows and windscreen. There is a joint near the top of the pillars on both sides of the windscreen too. So US made window rubbers are of no use to us.
All Australian IH pickup trucks were fitted with disc brakes from 1959 onward. I have had it suggested to me that the front ends from 59/60 models would bolt straight into my S110 but havent been able to find one, sadly.

So for Downunder IHC afficionados these are some of the things to watch out for in your rebuilds. :t3901;
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