My L110 Rebuild

Having recently completed my L and now driving it, I can relate to the decisions you now face. (See my "Project 51 L 110" in this build up topic) I went the SBC route. You could go Ford, Hemi, or what ever pleases you. If you're going that route, please note there will be clearance issues with the steering column and left exhaust header when installing a V8. Therefore, I decided early on that the column would go away and that led to the installation of the Fatman Fabrications Stage V front end. Stage V is the top end of their offering, but nothing says you couldn't go with the basic version. Fatman makes these front ends specifically designed for this era of International trucks and advertises that in their literature. But back to my main point. What ever YOU decide, it'll have a cost associated with it and can become a runaway snowball. You've already said you want to convert to disc brakes. Excellent up-grade choice. Your budget will determine what you end up doing. If you are looking at making the least number of changes to the truck, but making some up-grades, I'd suggest finding an inline 6 (Chevy, Ford, Mopar, etc.). And as has been suggested even today's 4 cylinders produce more horsepower and torque than the SD220. The drive train from a Dakota, Ranger, S10 or whatever are possibilities. And as Nikki has suggested heavily, diesel engines are currently a popular option. All will have their costs and set of complications to solve.
I don't know what the availability is for finding another SD220 block or complete engine. Some areas are better at producing them than others. Obviously, that would be the simplest solution to your current situation, but it will be a low RPM engine and can be modernized only so much. Others on this forum have added turbos to gain more get up and go. What it all boils down to is what do you want to end up with and how much you are willing to spend. The guys on this forum, both current and former, have done just about every version of the changes you are now facing and somebody(s) will be able to offer advise as you are confronted with a new dilemma. Make a plan and work toward that goal. You'll get a lot of satisfaction with each completed step and when the day comes you've reached that goal, you will be smiling from ear to ear and that will be one of the best days.

If you can live with a different brand engine under the hood, please consider using a small block Chevy. I know, I know, nobody likes them, but the SBC sure works well and it fits. I do not use the SBC because I like Diesel power, in particular, Cummins, but I am more than willing to admit that Chevy is a good choice and very affordable. Don't let the mindless crowd shame you into keeping it all original with a bunch of BS. I am willing to bet that many of the NO SBC peanut gallery have nothing going on in their shops, but they sure like to hand out advice funded with your money. The cost of rebuilding an Old IHC engine will be many times as high as a new SBC crate engine. Then there is the availability of parts and getting into a more modern engine that does not leak oil and mark its place like a dog. a SBC will give much better fuel economy and reliability. If you are sitting at home and out of cash because an Old Binder engine is killing your build-up funds, think of the fun you are missing. OH, did I say that your Binder rebuilt engine will be gutless and so slow.

I know I'm opening a can of worms here but why does everyone go with a Chevy engine? Yes they are cheap, easy to fit and reliable... However they make way less torque and HP then Ford or Dodge small blocks, true you can buy parts to hop them up cheaper but you would still spend a fair amount to out perform a bone stock 360 Mopar with a simple 4 barrel setup.... The 360 is actually a very compact engine for it's size and power... Also there is the old saying about SBC's, "if there isn't oil under it, there isn't oil in it."

I'm going with the Ford engine as I'm aiming for good fuel economy, I know from experience I can hit low to mid 20mpg's with a 351W where as a SBC or Mopar would be down around 18mpg (that's imperial gals. BTW), since I plan on driving it a lot the savings in fuel will make up for the added trouble of fitting the 351W.

As for 6 cylinders, I love the Mopar Slant six, that one stands out for me but for sure they were are all decent engines regardless of brand.

Steer clear of those Chevy 5 bangers, heard a lot of negative about them, they don't last... Same the newer Mopar Hemi's are brutal junk (found out first hand).

Good for you, make your engine choice on what is easier for you to believe. Do yourself a favor and check for oilpan design for axle clearance. If you change to V8 the old steering column will contact the engine. Take a look at a Jeep six.
It has been my experience with vehicles, there are very few changes that don't start a chain of events that must be dealt with. There is always a cooperative dance of parts. You can upset that balance all too easily if you don't have a carefully made plan.
I think that you could have made a better effort to take more off of the frame before the sand blasting. Now it will have to come off for cleaning and rebuilding anyway because the sand gets into everything and if left there, it will grind the parts. When the bits and pieces come off, now, there will be places behind each part that may need metal cleaning. I hope that you are using an etching primer or all of the time and money spent, so far, will be wasted. The surface of the all metal areas will oxidise right under the primer.

If he really wants a sd220 I have a complete running one with tranny , Pm me or give me a call 419-two 5 zero-1418 and yes it moves slow and maybne gets up to 55 but its original.. Good luck with your endevears.
I am trying to stuff a BBF 390 in mine which as eveyone has noted everything snowballs... but that is half the fun..

HE SAID: but that is half the fun I agree with you. Every time I finish a project and it is time to drive it, I feel some loss. I think that it is the challenge of the build that I like the most. Driving is driving, for me, mostly. BUT!! I have owned a few exotic cars and I have to admit that driving an old truck tops the experience.

Adding more fuel to the fire..consider the "go with the flow" builder (me) who tries too hard to incorporate any old engine that's handy into the project at hand.
I've used sbc in a IHC D-2 only because I had a Chevy "truck" front motor mount that bolted right where the old flathead went.
Yes, steering is a challenge and YES a domino effect of events sometimes occurs (funny right now) because of the ego of stuffing a non-IHC in the engine bay.
The Jeep straight six is an amazing engine that I've always wanted to try in an old IHC.
I put a BB Chrysler in a '41 Dodge pickup that required a 6" firewall recess, remounting the oil filter, lots of crossmember surgery.
I have a IHC C-1 that I've grafted a 96 Firebird front clip onto along with a RWD version of the "everywhere" Buick 3.8 V-6. This version of the "3800" has a balance shaft above the camshaft--smooth!
I took a IHC D-30 and put it on '68 IHC axles, 304 IHC V-8 and Borg Warner automatic. It fit and ran great! No steering mods!
I bought a mostly straight K-1 IHC pickup that a farmer had put in a late 60s Ford 351W/auto. The installer cut the motor mount crossmember out of the car and welded it into the K-1. The little I've driven this beast tells me it will be a road burner...and...the stock Ross steering box clears just fine.
Finally, a 2000 Nissan Frontier frame swap under a D-2 pickup. Just an easy, fast, fun swap. 4cyl Nissan manual trans. Takes about 3 or 4 months of weekends and evenings.
These Japanese swaps make absolutely wonderful everyday drivers. IFS, disc brakes, power steering, fuel injection, etc. quiet, too!
Good luck with your project!

Finally, a 2000 Nissan Frontier frame swap under a D-2 pickup. Just an easy, fast, fun swap. 4cyl Nissan manual trans. Takes about 3 or 4 months of weekends and evenings.
These Japanese swaps make absolutely wonderful everyday drivers. IFS, disc brakes, power steering, fuel injection, etc. quiet, too!
Good luck with your project!

Would love to see pics of that swap! I'm building a '88 Nissan Hardbody right now for my dad, it was my grandfather's truck.

Any engine can have sleeves installed to bring it back to orignal bore IF THE BLOCK is not damaged. These are a type of dry sleeve where the block is bored oversize, then the dry sleeve pressed in place. The block must be sound for this to be done. The OP's engine has the bore damage and if you tried to sleeve it it would leak and fail. The block must be sound and tight before dry sleeves can be installed. They can not repair freeze damage.
For the type of dry liner were talking about here, they are sold by inside bore and often come in more then one thickness, but only one leinth and must be cut to leinth after they are installed. More or less a generic part, not to be confused with the type of dry liner fitted to the BLD or RD series, which are custom made for the engine and can be fitted without machineing.

I snoozed thru the part of his cylinder wall is cracked, agreed his engine is toast,,,,,,,well there is always JB-weld,,,,,,,,,JUST KIDDING

I snoozed thru the part of his cylinder wall is cracked, agreed his engine is toast,,,,,,,well there is always JB-weld,,,,,,,,,JUST KIDDING

I call it "age enhanced" reading, when I miss or see somthing that isn't there. The older I get, the more it happens. Oh well!

If I had to put an SBC under the hood of any of my vehicles I'd sell them all and walk. That is how strongly I feel about them. My present build is the '53 R130 with the N/A Navistar and 5 speed. (When I'm able to work on it rather than other people's vehicles) As for insulting an American icon such as the venerable International truck line with a jap engine is wrong in so many ways... I feel the japanese lost the scrimmage called WW2 BUT won the real war!