1952-L110 Shorty.

That's a great idea for the fuse box. Years ago when I was younger and a stereo was important to me I mounted an amp, CD, player, and speakers all behind my seat and routed all the wires through the cavity in the body and through the A pillar. It was very clean looking when completed. I have since gotten rid of all that and the last time I drove my L was using that space to keep my tool box and some spare parts.

I am 71 this year and I still like a good stereo. My project car has A fantastic sound from ALPINE. because of our serious traffic congestion I find that I listen to traffic radio a lot and I don't need great sound for that.

My son wants premium sound in his L110 Shorty so we will be looking for places to fit a few speakers and possibly an amplifier.
Tools. I carried tools in our R120 for two decades and never needed them. I like to have a few basic tools along just in case.
Most of our driving is close to home and an auto club membership helps with the towing.
Thecurvature of the "L" dash is a challenge for installing a modern radio and making it look good. One of the ideas we have been talking about is mounting the stereo head unit behind the glove box door and making the original radio opening into a hidden cup holder behindan original IHC radio delete cover. Under seat drawers, like I made for our non IHC work well.
I carried some tools in one of those sealed military shell boxes and mounted the shell box in a tray behind the left running board. A ratchet strap kept the box in place.
The available space behind the running boards on our Shorty is used up.
The right side has the battery, compressor, air tank and the transmission cooler. The left side has the number one fuel tank, twin fuel filters and an electric fuel pump . The twin filters are for dual tanks. The second tank is between the rear frame rails and out of a 1990 Chevy van. http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/i ... lve/42-159 switches the tanks pickup, return and senders.

Nikki, if you aren't using it for anything else behind the seat is a great place to build a speaker cabinet and mount an amp. I had four 10" speakers mounted in a cabinet behind my seat with a couple of tweeters under the dash it was a pretty nice set up and had good fidelity. My radio was mounted under the dash like a CB would be. It looked a little funky but I kind of liked it.

Thanks for the suggestions. They will all be considered.
I have attached a picture of an under-seat drawer. While this one is not in an IHC, the idea is easily adapted. I like to raise the seat about1.5 inches in the L&R, for my comfort. the lift moves me away from the pedals.
I like to make the replacement glovebox (s) from folded aluminium then TIG weld the seams. I like to use roller drawer slides. If the drawers are shimmed a little tight, if keeps the drawer from sliding open.
On our R120, the glovebox did not have a top but the sides were about 4 inches high. I figured we would have bigger problems if the "R" were in a position where the glovebox was inverted and emptied,
The in-dash-radio was a pull-out-and-take-it-with-you unit. This may explain why it sticks out.
the gauges are Stewart Warner. There are no IHC switches behind the dashboard. the OEM knobs were fitted to the modern switch stems. The triangular space in the kick panels were carpeted to match the floor. This should be a good space for speakers.
Depending on the available under-dash space, the cowl vent may get a power-drive like our 40 Ford.

As usual, awesome!
Nikki, you should teach a class on adapting BMW and other goodies to your truck.

I am. This is the class, if you like. Attendance is not required, there will not be an exam. The only test is the one a person puts on themselves. Junk yards, AKA auto recyclers, are full of great engineering and having a "good Look" is free. Take lots of pictures and buy something.

The gauges in the R120 dashboard picture are Stewart Warner. I thought this was the best option in the mid 1990s. I ran the original gauges on 12 volts for about two years. The gauges started to fail at night. I was on my way home from Alberta and passing the Banff exit, 500 miles from home.
In 2016 there are many options for gauges. I like the AUTOMETER http://www.autometer.com/gauges/designer-black.html

My lucky day.
I just paid $250cad for a bunch of NOS IHC sheet metal for the "R" pickup trucks. This includes 2 front fenders, 1 hood, 1 gril, several inner fender aprons and a bunch of miscellaneous bits and pieces.
The sheet metal has no visible rust. There is some storage rash from 60 years of shuffling around a warehouse.
There is a 240 engine available. I may take the engine so I can design a TEC5 adapter kit to fit it. Why the TEC5? Because I was told it cannot be done. Thanks for the challenge.

nice find! Something like that would have come in handy...rather than hours and hours of body work on beat up stuff

I understand what you are saying.
The Old IHC parts found me. I must have a reputation. I will add it all to what we have and use the best for my son's L110 Shorty then my Orrville crewcab project next. The ORVILLE will be my last project. I am running out of time. It is an old age thingee.