'55 R-122 rehab


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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 8937

Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm

Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:25 pm

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Incoherent ramblings, that is certainly not you. Hang in there.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 343

Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2014 11:57 pm

Location: Plano, TX

Post Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:55 pm

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

ah man, i am bummed for you too. I do hope you are able to easily get the issue solved and get back to it. It's just too cool of a project to kick to the curb. fingers crossed for some non-catastrophic news from the machine shop. Even if from a far, you've at least got some fellas here that are rooting for you.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 160

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:19 pm

Location: Salem, Orygun

Post Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:45 pm

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Sorry to read about this. I've followed your build since I discovered the forum a couple of years ago. I hope you're able to regroup and go forward with your build.
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Mon Dec 18, 2017 6:05 am

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Crank, reluctor, and rotor phasing "as ran". Looks like its actually about 1* BTDC. The blue mark painted on the body of the dist. is the location of the #1 electrode in the cap.
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#6 piston damage
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I for one have always wondered about the timing marks on the bell housing of my SD. The photo in my service manual was grainy at best and there was no real description anywhere that I could find so coupling that curiosity and my wanting to document all forensic evidence that I can think of to prevent this type of failure in the future for anyone else I made a degree wheel out of a beverage carton, a "printable degree wheel" (google that for any number of different ones to save/print), a piece of safety wire, a damaged front crank pulley, a dial indicator w/ mag base, and few magnets.

After printing the wheel as large as I could on an 8-1/2x11 piece of paper I 3m spray glued it to a large flat piece of cardboard saved from a beer case. I needed a way to attach the wheel to the crank and still be able to rotate the crank. The kits have a fancy do-dad that slips over the crank snout. it is secured to the crank w a set screw. It is shouldered on the outer dia. and threaded to accept a degree wheel followed by a threaded collar to secure the wheel. Lastly it has a square drive broached into the end to accept you breaker bar. I could make something like that, but for a single application I didn't see the need. I had a chipped crank pulley laying around so I basically "faced off" the pulley and was left with the hub and a flange. I created a registering ring for the degree wheel by tracing the flange on a piece of beverage carton and cutting out the center. After lining up the hub on the printed face of the wheel and tracing its diameter. I set the radius on a compass pierced through the center point of the degree wheel and then transfered the layout for the flange on the back of the wheel. This gave me a location for my centering ring. A little more spray glue and my wheel was ready. Once the flanged hub is mounted to the engine the degree wheel was located on the flange and 2 magnets were used to secure the wheel to the flange. I sandwiched a piece of safety wire under a motor mount nut/washer and bent it down in front of the wheel for a pointer. This was the simplest and least expensive option for me.

i set the dial indicator on the #1 piston and found the highest point of the stroke to zero out the indicator at. I rotated the crank while watching the indicator and stopped when I had measured .020" change. I noted the measurement on the degree wheel and then rotated the crank in the opposite direction and stopped at .020" measured beyond .000. after noting the value on the degree wheel I saw the crank had traveled 14*. Then rotating the engine back towards TDC I watched the degree wheel and stopped after I had traveled 7*. Low and behold the ball was basically dead center over the 2nd rib (right edge of the blue mark in my photos). Run the crank back 2* indicated on the wheel and the ball was split in half by the left side of the blue mark (1st rib).

As measured 0* TDC- Ball is centered over right hand rib.
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As measured 2* BTDC- note the ball is centered over the left hand rib.
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'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Mon Dec 18, 2017 6:22 am

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

BTW- chip tuner suggested that I had hooked the vac advance back up and that was the cause of my pinging... Knowing that the ECM would be responsible for all spark control I only re-used 1 piece of the vac adv plate system. That's the plate that clamps the dist. body. 1 bolt and lock washer to secure the plate to the block and it was all done. No holes to drill, no fabrication, just bolt it down and go. You can just make out the bolt in the 4th "As ran" pic.
'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:12 am

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Here's something a little "meatier" (IMO) for you guys with more experience than I.

I think I see major HG failure here. To me it looks like combustion gas mixing between basically all cylinders. Anyone with more experience care to educate me/us?

Copper side is head side. Cylinder pics are from #1 to #6.

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'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:53 am

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Something else I’m kicking around... since this block was cracked when a bought it I had the #6 bore sleeved. There’s an SD220 FS a few hrs from me. Said to be free, but not running. I’m pondering making an offer on the shortblock to reassemble with the 240 crank/etc. Might be a better starting point...
'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 741

Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:58 am

Location: Central IL

Post Mon Dec 18, 2017 8:19 am

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

cornbinder89 wrote:Sorry to hear of your troubles, please share what happened if you can bare too, it will help all of us to learn. Was it an overspeed problem or a detonation failure? Most detonation problems can hole or crack pistons in short order if highly loaded (it is why Saab developed their APC system for the turbo 900) but it sounds like your failure was more severe. I for one have been reading this build, and would like to learn from experience. With the effects across almost if not all cylinders tends to rule out poor fuel mixing.



I apologize for not addressing your question directly. I believe all of the damage stemmed from detonation. I don’t believe I have ever rev’d this engine over 3200-3300rpms. Sounds wayyyyy too busy (to me) over 3k for me to be comfortable going much further. I believe the air/fuel was mixing fine.

As a side note- A quick review of the last log shows coolant temps in the head to be typically around the high 170s low 180s with a high of 191.4*f when the truck was idling after the major damage occurred during the high speed data logging. It cooled down quickly (was only 190 or above for about 40sec.) and stayed mid 180s or less the entire return trip.
'55 IH R-122- BG265 w/TBI fuel injection
'64 Porsche 356 C
'68 and '73 BMW 2002s
‘14 VW Passat SE TSI
3 Vintage Sears garden tractors ('66-'74)

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 160

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 5:19 pm

Location: Salem, Orygun

Post Tue Dec 19, 2017 12:15 pm

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Jake, I think your failure here is the machine work. That scuffing on the #6 piston is caused by either the piston sliding on the wrist pin or an improperly installed sleeve that does not allow the piston to travel without contacting the sleeve. Another possibility is the piston was oversized for the sleeve or vice-versa. You mentioned the #6 was resleeved and that there was evidence of wrist pin damage on a couple of other Pistons. Trying to repair and use a cracked block is always risky.

The head gasket is a little dirty but there's no burn through between the cylinders. Not a real suspect for the cause of the trouble. Just my .02 cents worth based on what I've seen over the years.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:29 pm

Re: '55 R-122 rehab

Pictures of the gaskets can be hard to read in 2 dim's. Look for any etching of the fire-ring that surrounds the bore. If it was leaking it will etch the gasket in short order.
I tend to agree with machining being the problem. It looks like #6 expanded and started to sieze/ scuff in the bore. Check end gap on rings as well as piston to bore clearance.
I have pulled apart diesels that had sat for many years than started and ran hard, where the rings had seized in the piston and when the piston expanded, there was no where for the ring to go, the piston looked just like yours did, where there was scuffing of the piston trunk 90 deg to the pin.
BTW I really like you distributor work, that is one neat electronic ign set-up.
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