'55 R-122 rehab

Great advice! I'll wander over to the Pete dealer (closest truck shop that I know of) one of these days and see what they've got.

I built my own engine stand and rotisserie used HALDEX slack adjusters for controlled movement in the engine stand and rotisserie. Since it is very unlikely that I will be doing any engine work I converted the engine stand to a transmission holder that bolts to the PTO mount.
These slacks use a 22/1 worm gear ratio. I built a crank to fit. I used a second line socket welded to a shop made crank handle.
Because it is a worm drive, the rotisserie stops moving when the crank stops turning.
It is possible to take a slack adjuster apart and remove the stiff detent mechanism and a bunch of grease. I did not use an "S" cam because none were available in the scrap bin. I welded the slack to the shaft that I had turned to fit.

I thought I read, in your thread, that you are planning to build s crewcab from two Cabs. If this is so, I have lots of pictures of my IHC factory built ORRVILLE crewcab. I might even be persuaded to sell the crewcab, if I do not start feeling better soon.
I put a 6.9 V8 Diesel in my R120. It fit, with a few firewall mods. I gave that truck to a "friend". He has abandoned it in a field. I think it might be available.
I have a new Cummins 5.9/24 valve, a new NVG4500 transmission and an NVG 241dld transfer case. I also bought front and rear DANA 60 disc brake axles. The rear axle is new.
I have an IHC R150 frame in perfect condition. It is long enough to accommodate a crewcab and an 8 foot box.

Nikki!
I reread your crewcab build thread the other day and have been meaning to reach out to you in hopes you might have, or might be willing to take more pics of your cab. The roof skin and B pillars are the areas of primary concern. I saw on of your pics of the top of the B pillar from the inside. It looked like a piece of 2x or 3x flat bar to join the door apertures together. I was wondering if the roof skin was just an additional sheet connecting the front and rear roof sections together, or if it is a complete custom made skin.

Thanks,
Jake

Progress update:
I placed an order today for a new turbo, new injectors, and a tuner. The injectors and turbo are mild upgrades from stock. The tuner is really just to ensure that the new parts play nicely with the base engine.

I managed to get the SV392 freed up last week. Lots of ATF/Kroil and a 3' bar on the crank pulley got things moving again after a few days. Parts for it aren't terribly expensive, so I ordered a starter, points, condenser, cap/rotor, plugs/wires, and a fuel pump. With the starter installed I cranked the engine for a few minutes to clean the bores. ATF mist blew everywhere. I pulled the valve covers to make sure all rockers were rocking. Intake on 8 wasn't. Turns out the pushrod was bent. A little time at the press and it's straight enough to test the engine. I pulled the distributor just far enough to re clock it with #8 pointing straight out the front of the engine. I pulled the stuck Holley 4bbl and took it inside. I got both sets of butterflies freed up and imagine my surprise when I put fuel in the front bowl and realized the pump jets were pumping. While the carb was off for giggles I shot a bit of ether down the intake after I fitted the new ignition parts and the starter. It stumbled on several cylinders. Happy about that I pressed on with the carb. That's back on the engine now and I'm just waiting for a warmer day to go out and mess with it. I also confirmed the trans has all 6 gears. I haven't confirmed the ratios yet, but since the output drum speed seemed to increase by appropriate amounts as I shifted into each gear (I think I remember correctly that 3 and 4 are both at the back of the pattern on the T-34 only). I think I may actually have a T-34 OD trans with dual PTOs- crazy.

BD220 in the S is still stuck pretty tight. I can get the crank pulley to rock about 1 or 2 degrees. I'm not giving up yet. Several cylinders seem to be holding oil while others have drained. I made a tool. We'll see if it works. I cut the porcelin from a spark plug and welded in a metal slug. I center drilled the slug and tapped it 1/8-27 and installed a grease zerk. I'm thinking to pick a sealed cylinder, fill it with atf and use a grease zerk saver or a grease gun rated for oil to "press" the piston. It'd be fun to make this one run too. Time will tell if it does anything or not.

I started cleaning out the cab and aired up the tires otherwise. Rear drums are still stuck but progress is progress.

3 different manufacturers. Ford made one of the styles

If I remember, approximately, there is a formed section welded in between the two high points of two cabs.
The form (rounded) section is straight from the front cab section to the back section and curved left to right. I have invested hundreds of hours in trying to come up with a less complicated solution for a crewcab for this model. As it is, some slack-jaw used a heavy object to bash in the back of the cab, just above the rear window. A suggestion was made, "This was to make room for a safety bar install."
The factory build is more complicated than a simple description can adequately describe.
The floor has a formed and welded in section. My cab is a three door. This was done to give more stability to the cab for mining and forestry rough driving. The door behind the driver is welded in. The roll-up window works.
I have had thoughts of converting the cab to a 4 door. This may as difficult as adding hinges and a door catch system, I have many sets. This crewcab arrived with both door styles. The later doors had taller side openings. The body lines of both door styles match. I wonder if the later "S" doors might fit?????????
One of the must do situations, on this crewcab, is to repair the damage above the rear window. I have a few rear cab sections with the twindows. At first look, this appears easy enough. The cab is double wall enclosed at the back. However the fix is done, the cab will have to be taken apart, and rewelded. This is where I think a two window change, as a cab section, will make the repair a little easier, not easy. If I get far enough for paint, I will have a Tremclad (Rustoleum) plain colour.

I always appreciate your insight Nikki. Thank you

Not much progress. I've been hung up working on a '70 Chevy C/10 and a 1922 Paige lately. That and the weather has been harsh around here: single digit temps on either side of 0F. Windchills -negative double digits F most days. The S is outside so I've done little more than look at it periodically lately.

I did clean up some casting flashings on the 6.0 block and just ordered a new cam for it. The tuner, the 155 c.c. injectors, and some other small stuff arrived the other day. New turbo is to arrive tomorrow. Hoping to start assembly of the shortblock next week. The 392 laying on the back of my new-to-me S 4x4 is ready to be fired up later this week between the raindrops/sleet. still only a few degrees of rotation from the BD220 in the S.

Jake - I have a complete chassis and running engine SD220, trans, etc. that we are not using in our L110 project.
It is located in Orange County, Ca. a bit of a drive from central Illinois!
Interested? Meet you half way?

I like the direction you are going with this build!

Dean