1952 L-110 restoration


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Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:12 pm

Post Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:14 am

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

I wish I would have known about a disc brake conversion before I rebuilt these drum brakes but they turned out nice.
The king pins were very worn out. They were a massive pain in ass to get out. If I were to do it again I would have just removed the front axle and put them in a press. I used an air hammer to pound them out. The MOOG 8390B kit was a perfect fit. I had to have the machine shop ream the bushings.
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Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

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Post Mon Aug 26, 2019 2:52 pm

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

I pulled the forward floorboard out and it’s quite rusty. I also cut the driver side floor out as it was very rusted. The forward cab cross member is pretty much gone. At least the channel inside the channel. I think the passenger side is okay. Has anyone repaired this channel with success?

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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Mon Aug 26, 2019 3:15 pm

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

The single piece of front floor-board from the factory does not have to be made in one piece.
I do not have pictures, but I have made that part in three pieces, left, center and right side. If you are able, you might be able to cut off the rusted rag and replace that part, ONLY.
I have a pending 1953 "R" crewcab that will be having much more floor modification than you are facing. The crewcab does not have a rust problem. My situation is of my own making. I am converting a three door cab into a four door. I am using an original IHC floor stamping, I will be cutting and modifying.
I think you are well on your way to a great build. It takes time and some money. Don't buy a cheap welder. I recommend a MILLER 140 wire feed for sheetmetal. My friend sold his 140 on Craigslist. Make sure you are able to test the welder before laying down the cash. The guy who did the body and paint on my Ford used a Miller 140 he bought off a tool truck. His 140 is red and twice the cost of blue.
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I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
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Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

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Location: Plano, TX

Post Mon Aug 26, 2019 3:38 pm

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

I had to do some surgery on my toe board as well. It's not too bad to put that back together. One suggestion i will make though is to make it a bit wider and taller at first. The warping that i got almost make it to where i couldn't drill a new hole and get it to reach the bolt holes (you can always shave it down). Does that makes sense? Yours is worse off than mine was, but same kind of repairs.

As far as that cross member....i didn't have to do that. But, you might do your best to only cut out what you need to and patch in new steel rather than trying to cut it all out and replacing the whole chunk (unless you have a doner piece?) That is some pretty thick stuff, some pitting isn't probably a big deal. It's lasted this long! Or, does it make sense to just cut the whole thing out and fab up a new cross member with some thick piece of tube steel. Depending on your motor/transmission choice.....you might just be better off doing that anyways? Your tranny tunnel may just end up being something fabbed anyways, so no need to try and recreate that entire floor exactly how it was unless you are trying to go back to stock everything.

You have options though. If you do disconnect any of the cross members, make sure you brace up the frame with something. Bolted to cab, it probably shouldn't move, but better safe than sorry with a bent frame that moved even slightly.
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Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:12 pm

Post Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:48 am

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

Nikkinutshop- thanks for the three piece idea that kinda makes it seem a little easier.
I have a good wire feed mig and a nice tig setup that I use for aircraft welding but airplanes are easy. Everything done by the book so you never have to just figure it out like the autos. This being my first old pickup It’s hard to not overthink it. That crew cab will be so unique. I can’t wait to see that.

Bsievers1616- good idea to add some extra. I was going to just copy what I chopped out as a template I would hate to be short.
I am keeping it original. At least that’s the plan if the engine shop ever fixes my crank and block. I think piece mealing the cab cross member is going to be my best bet. And you right about the strength. With as rusty as the floor was it was no easy task getting it out.
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Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:12 pm

Post Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:53 pm

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

Free motor day!!! I just picked up a free SD240 that ran well when removed for a hot rod build. It was sitting on the pan so it’s pretty well crushed. Stored indoors. The engine shop hasn’t touched my SD220 in three months so this worked out well.
I see the front engine mount is different and it has some sort of bell housing adapter the 220 doesn’t have. Anything else that I’m going to have issues with adapting this?
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Thu Sep 19, 2019 7:50 pm

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

Basic block casting is the same, so all the old style parts should bolt on.
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:49 pm

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

You have an interesting combination in that new engine - Silver Diamond block, but Black Diamond oil pan and cylinder head (tilt valve). It isn't really a bellhousing adapter, that's the front half of the newer style bellhousing. The front mount from your old SD and the bellhousing from the SD should bolt up just fine.
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Pile of Parts
Pile of Parts

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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2019 11:12 pm

Post Mon Sep 23, 2019 12:06 am

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

PaulH wrote:You have an interesting combination in that new engine - Silver Diamond block, but Black Diamond oil pan and cylinder head (tilt valve). It isn't really a bellhousing adapter, that's the front half of the newer style bellhousing. The front mount from your old SD and the bellhousing from the SD should bolt up just fine.


Interesting... You are right. It is a tilt valve and the oil pan is quite a bit different then my SD220.
What’s really puzzling are the pistons. I inspected the pistons and valves with a borescope. The pistons are flat top. I thought the tilt valve had to have stepped pistons?
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:55 am

Post Mon Sep 23, 2019 6:42 am

Re: 1952 L-110 restoration

What's the serial number on the block?

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