'55 R-122 rehab

I'll be honest Kevin I'm not sure if it's a close or wide ratio box. The casting on the top cover is "T19-148". The steel tag is missing. The unit is in pieces on my bench right now. I need to spend some time looking at it. I'll assume based on the counter shaft tooth counts (16/27/36/43) that it's got the 6.x:1 first gear. In the last several years this was the first T19 box within a reasonable drive that was meant for an IH. I'm just excited to have syncros. I still need to determine if the trans brake housing/brackets from my T9 will bolt up to this tranny. If not then I've got some more pennies to save (8.8" axle/ custom P brake cables/etc) before I can move forward.

Sounds like the wide ratio, syncros are nice to drive

Jake did you get a T-19A/close ratio, or a T-19/wide ratio, BTW, nice work on the truck.
I recall on my T-19A, I had to use the T-98 clutch sleeve thing where the throw out bearing rides on. The T-19A sleeve was slightly larger at the hole in the bell housing at the mating surface.

I believe the trans is referred to as a wide ratio unit. Ratios are as follows: 6.21 1st, 3.09 2nd, 1.68 3rd, 1:1 4th, 6.98 rev. The trans was in pretty rough shape after I got it stripped down and cleaned up. I replaced the Reverse idler gear along with reverse gear on the main shaft. The entire 1/2 syncro assembly needed to be replaced because the dogs on the 2nd gear side of the ring were rounded over. New input and output bearings, new small parts kit, and a replacement reverse lock-out spring were replaced as well. The countershaft cluster gear is a bit rough as well. Several of the gears have pitted teeth. I'm going to take a chance and run the trans as-is for a while. If it starts self-destructing I will look for another replacement. Originally I was going to install the driveshaft drum brake to allow me to take smaller steps during some of my future upgrades. Turns out the 1st rear bearing carrier I bought isn't machined for the speedo drive and the 2nd one I bought isn't machined for the shaft support bearing retainer ring. "The juice isn't worth the squeeze" for me to get either of these housings to work so I'm waiting on installing the T-19 'til I have a 3:73 LSD Explorer rear axle (that I hope to getting from a local pick-n-pull this weekend) ready to install as well. I pulled the input bearing carrier off of a spare IH T-9 I had in the garage. The method of oil control between the retainer and the input shaft is a reverse corkscrew machined into the inner bore of the housing. I guess the idea is that the oil would naturally walk back into the trans as the shaft rotated. The newer retainers have a modern spring tensioned rubber oil seal. Another issue I found with the T-9 retainer is that it too is not machined for the snap ring retained input shaft bearing. While it wouldn't be a big deal to machine the retainer to clear the new bearing and snap ring there simply isn't enough casting to make room for the modern oil control seal. Scanning through pics of the T-9 build that is currently in the truck I see that it has an updated input bearing retainer. I will swap that one to the T-19 when time comes.

Along with adding the driveline and brake upgrades I will be adding EFI to the SD240 that is in the truck. I'll be using GM TBI injection parts from Astro vans and others. The ecu will have to be custom tuned to play nice with the IH I-6 but I suspect it will result in a much nicer daily driver. Once the driveline and Injection are sorted I'll be going for modern HVAC system. It was a major challenge keeping the windows defogged this winter with the old heater alone. While the insulation in the roof makes driving the truck in the summer more tolerable there really is nothing quite like feeling a blast of cold air on a hot summers day.

More updates to come. There will be a lot of mock-ups as I use this truck most days for my business and I need to keep the down time for the conversions to a minimum.

Thank you for the update, It sounds like very ambitious work.

Having things like a spare front axle, fuel tank, intake/exhaust manifolds, ign dist, and other parts will allow me to fab parts/test fit things ahead of the swaps. I'm very excited to see where this ends up.

I'm a bit apprehensive about what I'm embarking on. I've always enjoyed the simplicity of the truck as it sits. It will take careful consideration on my part to update the truck without regrets. That being said I think the mag wheels and lower stance are off the table.

You may want to check Craigslist for a set of alloy wheels if and when you decide to use them. I would suggest going for 17" or larger for maximum clearance. I have purchased several sets of alloy wheels on CL, some for keeping and more for resale. Your bolt pattern is 5 X 4.5 inches or 5 X 114.3mm. This bolt pattern is common on Old IHC, Ford, older Dodge cars and more than a few imports. If you are into buying North American anything, do not worry. The biggest alloy wheel factories are in the USA and Canada and they supply worldwide.
I have the 5 X4.5" bolt pattern on my nonIHC and I was able to buy BBS wheels to fit that pattern. Some of these wheels were free and for a NOS set I paid $100usd. Depending on the wheel, some of these wheels can be very light. The BBS wheels on my non-IHC weigh in at about 8 pounds each.
This is a simple way to get some splash for very little cash.

Along with adding the driveline and brake upgrades I will be adding EFI to the SD240 that is in the truck. I'll be using GM TBI injection parts from Astro vans and others. The ecu will have to be custom tuned to play nice with the IH I-6 but I suspect it will result in a much nicer daily driver.

I'll be watching intently as the EFI progresses. This is something I'd like to do in the future.

Dean

You may want to check Craigslist for a set of alloy wheels if and when you decide to use them. I would suggest going for 17" or larger for maximum clearance. I have purchased several sets of alloy wheels on CL, some for keeping and more for resale. Your bolt pattern is 5 X 4.5 inches or 5 X 114.3mm. This bolt pattern is common on Old IHC, Ford, older Dodge cars and more than a few imports. If you are into buying North American anything, do not worry. The biggest alloy wheel factories are in the USA and Canada and they supply worldwide.
I have the 5 X4.5" bolt pattern on my nonIHC and I was able to buy BBS wheels to fit that pattern. Some of these wheels were free and for a NOS set I paid $100usd. Depending on the wheel, some of these wheels can be very light. The BBS wheels on my non-IHC weigh in at about 8 pounds each.
This is a simple way to get some splash for very little cash.

I've always loved BBS basketweaves. I used to put 2pc RMs on all of my late '80s VWs.

My unwillingness to do major mods (double A-arm fronts/ notch and flipped rear) to the suspension right now will likely keep me from upgrading my wheel and tire package. I picked out a pretty slick wheel a while back but I feel that in order for it to look right the body really should be 1 to 2 stories lower than it currently is.

I need to find a new online picture hosting site as picasa is no more. Once I get that squared away I will be back to documenting all of my upgrades the way I used too- way too many details and lots of pics. Haha

If you're thinking of switching a T19 for the T9, and want the transmission mounted parking brake, it seems like the easiest approach would be to use parts from a T98. There's a pretty good write-up on what has to be done at

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/inde ... tro.80043/

If you're thinking of switching a T19 for the T9, and want the transmission mounted parking brake, it seems like the easiest approach would be to use parts from a T98. There's a pretty good write-up on what has to be done at

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/inde ... tro.80043/

Great write-up. Originally I was going to use the driveline brake as a temporary parking brake to break the swap down in to a few smaller pieces. As it doesn't hold the truck well on our steep driveway anyway and I don't want to spend more money on a "temporary" solution I will just take a little more time planning out the connections between the IH hand brake lever and the Ford rear wheel brakes. No biggie, just a bit more time under the truck at swap time.