Engine swap?????

Anyone know if a 350 will fit a 1950 110 series without much fabrication? Sadly my 6 is bad. Would appriciate any deatails. Thx

You're talking about the mack daddy of all swaps. SBC's will fit into VW Beetles, even. I've seen them on lawnmowers.
Seriously, the 383 stroker (SBC) in my 51 L110, 700R4 tranny, went in like it was supposed to be there. Please note, some changes to the engine bay are necessary. The diagonally positioned braces that hold the stock motor mounts will need to come out. You'll need to box the frame rails from the firewall forward for best results - partly because those braces came out and the engine will now serve as the cross brace unless you install another type of cross brace. The motor mounts I used are from Chassis Engineering and are of the rubber donut style with a center vertical bolt. The CE mounts are extra long so you can trim to the length needed. Position the engine to within an inch of the firewall. No firewall modifications are necessary unless you want to plug up some of the holes IH placed there.
Now then that I've gone down this road a ways, I'll tell you the stock steering column will be a problem unless you plan very carefully. It's not a buzz killer but will be very much noticeable to work around. My truck got a whole new suspension and steering system. I am not totally knowledgeable what all you'll need to do to work around that stock column. Others on this forum, I believe, have mastered this. Just know you will have to deal with it.
Obviously, the radiator will need to be upgraded to handle the bigger engine. Can be done. My builder had one made by a company that specializes in all different kinds of special installations from fork lifts to heavy haulers and earth movers. And it fit within a 1/2" to 1 " of the original position. I suggest an electric fan instead of the mechanical water pump mounted fan. Clearance there will be tight.
What I have noticed since putting my truck on the road with an engine swapped into a truck that wasn't designed for it: Air flow through the engine bay is critical. The front openings were designed with that 6 as the only option. With the V8 in there, plan some more ways for air to get in and out. I wish I had put some louvers in the inner panels of the front and sides to allow greater air passage. I did have to trim the inner side panels to clear the new suspension and that does help. If I had put some other louvers in them would have been better. Other, more experienced engine swappers, would have already known this. This project was my first shot at it. Experience is a wonderful teacher.
There are a number of people posting on this forum who have installed SBC's, Fords, and various diesels as well as those who have made their original 6's come back to life with overhauls and even adding turbos to 'em. I think you can get opinions about almost anything you want to do and all of us can help in some way with whatever your decision for an engine is. This forum is very much experience driven - some who want the experience, and some who have already experienced it.

Anyone know if a 350 will fit a 1950 110 series without much fabrication?

Short answer is NO! But there are plenty of small IHC sixes out there, if yours is beyond help and they will bolt in. There is also a bolt on turbo kit if you want V-8 power, all with very little or no fab work.
The key words for a v-8 swap being "without much fabrication", many have done it with much fabrication!

Anyone know if a 350 will fit a 1950 110 series without much fabrication?

Short answer is NO! But there are plenty of small IHC sixes out there, if yours is beyond help and they will bolt in. There is also a bolt on turbo kit if you want V-8 power, all with very little or no fab work.
The key words for a v-8 swap being "without much fabrication", many have done it with much fabrication!

I need to stop reading this forum every day. I never even knew these turbo kits existed. I Goggled them and now I want one!

They aren't yet made for the medium six line (BLD-BD 282 308) but I'm sure Keystone could come up with something.

They aren't yet made for the medium six line (BLD-BD 282 308) but I'm sure Keystone could come up with something.

That's probably a good thing. I can save my money for something more sensible. But I'll bet they sound pretty cool!

I bet a 269 would pull quite well with 7PSI boost. Need higher gears in most cases. One of my K-7's with 9.00x 20's and a gin pole bed, tips the scales at over 10K empty, and would benefit from more power. Rolls along fine on the flat, but if it sees a hill in the distance, begins to slow down!

They were touting these on Power Nation on Sunday. Looks like they are designed for Jeeps, but I kind of like 'em and i think i can make they work for my swap

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products ... mount-kit/

WEW51L110, is that kind of what yours look like?

That is similar. Due to patent laws, they're designed differently but looks like they use the same (or similar) cushion set. I tried to capture photos from Chassis Engineering website. And I think I've seen the cushion set offered in the Speedway Motors catalog in case you ever need a replacement. It's a Ford flathead V-8 design. (on re-examining, the cushion sets are not alike - sorry)
Frame adapter: trim the CE frame adapter to the length you need. Looks like the AA unit is a fixed length.
Engine mount: CE engine adapter can be ordered in three different lengths: 17", 19", 22" (same price) to space the cushions apart different dimensions. AA appears to have the adjustability with the multi-hole arrangement on the engine mount.
It's purely a personal preference, but I like the CE design better because once it's installed you don't see all those left over adjustment holes. And with the trim to length of the CE frame adapter, you know the length is exactly what you want and won't come up half of a hole off. I won't say one is better than the other. We all make choices based on our needs and desires. Your choice.

thanks for the info!