OldIHC

A couple of days ago,I started the KB3,and gave it a quick walk-around. I noticed the PTO was engaged,when I glanced between the cab and box area. (The pump doesn't make any noise)! I pulled the lever,and the box raised less than halfway,(below the belt-line of the cab). Here's a video of adding more hydraulic fluid,truck start,and raising the hoist. brake lines all appear to be new,since they have most of the protective coating intact https://youtu.be/T7_9nysrG_Y

Bill,
This link worked better for me-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7_9nysrG_Y

Dean

Bill, Check your PM's I Pm'd you twice!

Great U-tube , nice to see your truck in action . I have been admiring your good fortune , and look forward to the progress , that is one nice truck !

Thanks for the kind words,M.M.! now the generating system charges,but I found a fuel pump leak. Found one on E-bay,rebuilt to withstand ethanol! I should have it road worthy very soon! Stay tuned!

I received my package from "Vintage Auto Garage",today! They sell a "Block" voltage reducer,for guys like me that converted 6 volt to 12 volt. instead of using individual "Runtz" reducers for each gauge, this "Block" has terminals for up to three gauges,as well as a fused circuit. they also sell a kit for the heater switch,(Looks like a heavy-duty "Runtz",encased in a metal heat-sink,and hardware to mount). Hopefully,I'll have the gauges/heater switch installed this week-end!! I'll make a video,of the install,for anyone interested. Thanks! VintageAutoGarage.com Telephone:1-800-516-4461

i have the "block" installed,and all gauges,(except fuel), work correctly. the fuel gauge needs a ground wire installed,so maybe that will fix the problem. I started it up,and actually DROVE it for the first time,Saturday! First time experience with straight-cut gears! "She" ground a little,shifting from 2nd,to 3rd,even double-clutching! I just had it on a gravel back road,but I can tell that 50 M.P.H.,will be "Pushing"' it. That's why the speedo is in RED numbers from 50,and above! Even though it could use a tune-up,it climbed a 5% 1/4-mile grade,and even increased speed,in 2nd gear! I'm about ready to get "Her" insured,after I change out the gear oil,in the trans.,and rear-end! I plan on installing turn signals,but keeping the single tail-light. Since my truck has a "Box",I plan on using the corner rear marker lights as tail/turn signals,and convert the front 'Running lights", to double-filament,as well. This way,I can retain the original look,and be SAFE,(I HOPE),as well. Need to find a garage,too,to keep "Her" out of the weather! THANKS!!

Dear Bill,

Great looking K3. I've got a 1945 K6 I was given by my father before he sold his farm. It's in a LOT worse shape than your K3, and right now I'm trying to get it running, stopping and getting the lights to work. I'm making progress on the dump bed lights, but have a ground issue somewhere. My bed lights pulse when I turn on the Guide 6004 turning signal switch. But at this point, as long as I can get my right rear turning signal to work, I don't mind the pulsations.

My gas gauge also doesn't work. The tank is under the seat on the K6 and the sender unit looks like the yours from your adding hydrallic fluid video. The unit was loose on the gas tank....and the 70 year old float was flooded. I got another but the gauge is still not working. Is the tank grounded? ( I would think so) If so, is it a strap or just by being bolted to the cab? Also, does the sender unit need to be "sealed" on top of the tank for the gauge in the dash to work?

I'd appreciate any suggestions you may have!
Many thanks,
Bruce Swank K6

Gas gauges are tricky buggers! That's why i posted my question on the forum,too. I had a 1955 Chevy 2-ton,and bought a complete wiring harness from American Autowire. I had a new tank,and sending unit installed prior to the harness installation. There were no real clear instructions on how to connect the gauge,so I "guessed",and wired it backwards. FRIED the gauge! No smoke show,or anything like that,it just would not register. I couldn't find another N.O.S. gauge,so I sold it "AS-Is". now to really complicate matters,I switched my KB3,fron 6-volt Pos. ground,to 12V Neg. ground. I get more arguments from guys telling me that I don't need to/Do need to switch the wires,since the grounds are different. It Stands To reason,that if you switch your grounds,you don't need to switch your wires,since they still make a complete circuit.You will need to install a "Runtz" reducer,to keep the voltage low enough not to FRY your gauge.( Only applicable if switching from 6Vneg. Grd.,to 12V Pos. Grd.) With that said,I BELIEVE that the wire from the "Sender" to the Dash,is "Ground". The base of the "Sender' should also be grounded,using one of the screws holding it in place. If your battery is under the driver's side floor,the BEST Ground would be from the "Sender",to the "Pos" post of your battery,(if yours is 6V Pos. Ground). Ground is ground,no matter if it's 6V,12V,Pos.,or Neg. Hope I'm not getting you too confused! I haven't got around to trying to fix my gas gauge yet,but if I find anything else out to help you,I'll let you know.

Dear Bill,

Thanks so much for your input. I think it will help with my problem. The only thing is that although the sender unit has small screws for the gas unit, it is not screwed to the gas tank at all. Looks like it was only held in place by something like JB Weld! Should I "drill" a hole in the top of the tank/ sender unit hole to "ground" it?

Thanks,
Bruce