1948 KBS 6

My BLD's have those "loops" for the plug wires. I would guess they are stock.

I started it and it's runnin nice .... BD 308 bored to 40 over and balanced .

Congratulations don't you just love it when they roar to life and purr.
Bill

Thanks WMB , yes it is very nice . I wanted to say for the record that I'm using a "start up oil " 10w30 per the builders recommendation , it has zinc in it which as he says "is good for everything " . On the old site there had been several conversations about what weight oil to use and I had decided on 20w50 Castrol , with this new motor I'm getting over 80lbs on start up and after it warms up 45lbs at idle and 60lbs at higher rpm's , the high pressure had me a little concerned but it is getting more within range the more I run and tune it , I put a mechanical gauge from my super A on the motor just to make sure .

Ditto on the congrats Manic. It sure looks good so far and knowin that it runs as good as it looks does go a long way. I too am a fan of castrol oils and use it in all of my motors. I also use Comp Cams break-in additive at every oil change to keep the zinc levels up. Looking forward to watching your progress.

Wow! Your truck is looking great. Thanks for the info on Parts of the Past, I will give them a call. I have already learned alot by reading some of your posts. Many questions I had were answered in the threads.

Here is a picture of the rear brakes in my truck . They were on it when I GOT IT , I think the drum is original , the backing plate has been changed . I had to get parts to rebuild them and it seems that they were used on a 1963 ford school bus . they are easy to adjust and stop pretty good from what I remember . I ran stainless lines everywhere , used a flare tool from eastwood [expensive but the result was worth it ] had a few drips but used a flare nut wrench to tighten them up , also wanted to say that using anti-sieze on the fittings helped to make it easier to tighten them to a point that the drips stopped . I think that it will be easier to work with them in the future . I use anti -sieze and lock washers on everything I can .

The rear brakes appear to be the same used in the L,R.S series. Check Jared's S-160 build thread.It's an early Wagner system,used by many makes of the era.

The brakes look awfully "clean", did you put anti-seize on any of the places where the parts "move"? The adjuster screws in the support brackets are one place that should have a liberal coating and be free of paint. The screws and support are dis-similar metals and will eventually corrode,so a little PM now can stop a headache later.

On the adjusters , oh yea anti-sieze , on the other parts that move like the bolt and washer in the center of the shoe , I used a light coating of marine grease . there are these posts that are shaped like a bishop in a chess set for lack of a better description , that go thru the shoe and that is what the springs hook on , a little grease at the contact points there to . Finding these pins is what helped ID the brakes roughly .

I take it by post's you mean the short carriage bolts with the castle nuts and cotter pins? F19309 is the Wagner pn for a pair of them with nuts btw.

I forgot another important place for anti-seize,the removable anchor pins in the support that a spring goes on. Very important they "float" in the eye.