1948 KB5 Railway Express


The place to put your K or KB "Build Off" story.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:37 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

In trying to keep the truck more on an original theme, a reproduction cloth covered wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring based in North Kingston, Rhode Island, was ordered. The wiring included Part #2728 - Dash, Engine, & Headlight Harness, Part #2730 Headlight Bucket Wires, Part #2731 Parking Light Bucket Wires, and Part#JB4 4 Position Junction Block used for the headlights & parking lights.
The remainder of the wiring used on the truck was the standard plastic covered wiring purchased at any local parts store or online. Fortunately, where I work we have long lengths of wiring that are included in some of the add-on electrical options we install. I used a number of these lengths in making the needed wiring for the truck. I use crimp type wire ends, but additionally solder and use shrink wrap tubing to complete the ends. ALWAYS slip the heat shrink tubing onto the stripped end of your wiring BEFORE you solder on a wiring connector (ask me how I know this, LOL). Keep it far enough away from the heat so it does not shrink up before its time (another learned lesson). Let the solder cool, then slip the heat shrink over the connection and apply heat to shrink Liquid electrical tape also comes in handy in some places, especially if you have 2 wires joined and there is a gap between the 2. I just fill the gap with a little liquid tape to seal.
To keep many of the wires from hanging loose or needing a bunch of wire hold down clamps (which can look poor), I used 1/4" metal brake line tubing to run some of the wiring through. It protects the wiring from any rubbing or sharp edges that may wear through the wiring over time, and looks neater. I cut the flared ends & fitting off first. Ream out the hole a bit as a brake tube cutter will leave a burr on the inside of the line and depending on the size of the casing on the wire, can cause it to hang up. Next cut the tubing to length, if needed, and then slipped the wiring through the brake line. It should go through smoothly. Any kinks in the wiring can become a problem, so make sure the wire is straight. If I needed to bend-to-fit any of the brake lines, I used a brake line bending tool and did this after running the wiring through the brake line, other wise the wiring will not pass through any bends. If I needed an extra length or 2 of the brake line, I would cut a short length of rubber gas/vacuum hose having the same inside diameter of the outside of the brake tubing and use this as a means to connect the 2 pieces of brake tubing together. Then bend any areas as needed. Then when done and wiring length determined, strip the ends, add the heat shrink tubing first, then wiring connector end and solder - keeping the shrink tubing far enough away from the heat so it does not shrink. Let cool then slide heat shrink over the soldered connections and draw the heat shrink down with a little heat/flame. Then I use either a formed metal wire clamp to secure the brake tubing neatly down or even a zip-tie can work.
Where I had multiple wires that were to be joined together to a common power wire, such as the 4 marker lights of the rear brake lights, I cut each wire length so they terminated at the same point together and then used a round eyelet crimp end on each end of the wire, soldered & heat shrink. I then joined then all together along with the power wire with a small machine screw/nut passing through the eyelets and tightened them down. Then cover the union generously with the liquid electrical tape to protect or use electrical tape, or both, to protect from grounding out and moisture.
I found it difficult to pass my wiring from the rear lights of the truck along the inside of the frame rail. There are holes in the frame crossmembers which were easy enough and I used rubber grommets to protect the wiring, but when I got near the transmission and gas tank area, it got tight and was near impossible to snake wiring through let alone protect it from future rubbing - and I did not want to pull the gas tank. I used a length of PCV pipe that was stiff enough that I could pass it along the frame rail and by the transmission up to the floor area where it came out near the battery. I cut it to length so it was only used where needed. Then it was possible to feed the wiring through the pipe and right up to the floor area and in close proximity of my fuse box for later hook-up. Fastened the pipe down and my problem in feeding wire through this tight area was solved.

I added a fuse block at the left side drivers kick panel area as all the wires for the truck lighting ran on the left side. I add the fuse block to protect the electrical circuits as part of the add-on wiring system I was making for the truck. The factory wiring did not incorporate a fuse box and this made it easier to add electrical upgrades and protect it with fuses should anything short out.
I used an 8-place push-in style fuse block. The power source was taken straight off the starter solenoid lug by running an 8 gauge wire from the lug, along the firewall, and to the fuse block. This provides a separate 12-volt power source isolated from the factory wiring harness so as not to overload it and to protect it from shorting out or burning up any wiring. This means that the fuse box is always energized even with the ignition key off as the starter solenoid lug is directly connected to the positive terminal on the battery. To eliminate the chance of an electrical issue in any part of either the factory type replacement wiring or my add-on wiring, I added a master shut-off switch that disconnects all power from the battery.
I also added a junction block/strip directly above the fuse box which made it much easier to connect wires in series, for example the turn signals. The turn signal indicator only requires 1 power wire for activation which is hooked to the fuse block for its power. But, I had to connect in series the left rear/left front turn signal light, right rear/right front turn signal light, and emergency flasher function. The junction block makes this easy to accomplish, and it also allows easier testing, diagnosis, and isolation if an electrical problem arises.
Attachments
01   Red power wire o fuse block.JPG
02  Fuse block & Junction block.jpg
03  Box light wiring & brake tubing.JPG
04  Cut-off Switch - adj.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:40 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

I wanted to add interior lighting. The truck had some form of interior light, but all that remained was a switch behind and above the drivers seat with a few strands of original cloth covered wiring attached. I got these LED interior light panels from a job at work. I made my brackets to install them, installed a new switch, and wired them up. Fairly straight forward and simply.
Attachments
01  KB5 Interior Lighting.JPG
02  KB5 Interior Lighting.JPG
03  KB5 Interior Lights.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:46 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Decided to pull the nose off to work on it and to better get access to the engine bay. I originally did not expect to do this, but as I got more into the truck and all the repairs & work it needed, this just made it easier. Also found rust & rot on the cab hidden behind the fenders. The nose comes off in 1 piece. My brother, the owner of the truck, flew in for a visit and I put him to work helping me unbolt the nose and lift it off. I have more pics to follow when I get into the sheet metal repairs.
Attachments
01  Nose Removed.jpg
02  Left Side Panel Rot.jpg
03  Right Side Panel Rot.jpg

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:51 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Lower Radiator Heater Hose w/Aluminum Radiator

After pulling the nose off, I reinstalled the radiator and support so I could fabricate a new lower hose. I also wanted to replace the top hose and eventually heater hoses.

I had to buy 2 different molded hoses to make the lower radiator hose, NAPA 8092 and NAPA 8818. To join them together, I purchased a stainless steel exhaust reducer off Ebay, 1 3/4" ID x 2" OD x 4 3/4" L
NAPA 8092 hose was used to supply the tight curve fitted onto the lower radiator outlet. It has a spring inside the hose to keep the hose from collapsing. I had to trim this down once the hose was cut shorter. The radiator outlet end was cut to tuck it in as tight as possible so the curvature would not hit the inner fender - this was trial & error. Once trimmed, the upper end where the joint was to be was cut down. Leave it a little long as it will be cut down as needed to fit with the upper hose section.
NAPA 8818 hose was used for the slight elbow bend needed to direct the hose down toward and meet with the modified lower hose. The end was trimmed at the water pump side first and then fitted on so it positioned the hose at an angle needed to join the hose to the lower hose section.
Each hose was then carefully trimmed where they meet in the middle (the joint)so they would line up with each other and not lose the needed contours of each hose. They were rotated as needed so they would better line up as the cuts were completed. Hose 8818 cut down measured 4 3/4" long with the water pump end measuring 2 1/2" from the end of the cut hose to the center of the slight down bend in the hose. Remember which end is which. Hose 8092 could not be measured for length because of it contour but it measured 3 3/4" from the radiator outlet end to the inside of the tight bend at its center. The joint end measured just under 3" from the end to the inside of the tight bend at its center.
The stainless steel reducer was then cut down on the ends. Approximately 1 1/8" was trimmed off the 1 3/4" end and 1 1/2" inches were trimmed off the 2" end. The final length of the reducer was approximately 2". The small end was too large for the water pump hose section to slide over. 8 cuts evenly spaced apart were cut about 5/16" deep with a die grinder/cut-off wheel on the small end in order to collapse the end in slightly with a hammer. Gently close up the small end until it will fit snugly into the water pump hose on the end where the 2 hoses will join. To install the reducer for its final placement, stick the rubber hose in a bowl of hot water to soften. Put dish soap on the stainless steel reducer. Then slide the hose over the stainless steel reducer up to the step where it gets larger.
Install the curved lower hose section onto the radiator outlet end and rotate as needed to line up with the water pump outlet. Then install the upper hose section over the water pump end. Slip the stainless steel reducer end into the curved lower hose section. Rotate the upper hose to line up with the lower hose. Rotate each as needed so the 2 hoses join together in a near straight alignment at the joint. There should be no binding anywhere. If the hoses do not fit easily together or onto either water outlet, trim as needed to make them work. If either hose is a little short, the 2" end of the adapter fits easily into the hose and you can lengthen it by leaving more of the reducer exposed, but enough to clamp with the hose clamp. I had a good fit and the 2 hoses butted up so little is seen of the reducer.
Once the hoses fit without binding or awkward angles, hose clamp only the joint together. On my truck, the lower hose section was slightly hitting the radiator support edge. So I marked the area that I wanted to trim down for clearance so the hose would not be pressed up against the support and wear through. I removed the hose and trimmed the area. Once trimmed, reinstall the hose and add your hose clamps. The radiator is now ready for filling.
Attachments
01  Lower Hose.JPG
02  Lower Hose.JPG
03  Lower Hose.JPG
04  Lower Hose.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:54 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

TURN SIGNALS

The turn signal set-up on the truck as delivered appeared to be the period original item. It was a 6-volt system with cloth covered wires. It only had the left & right turn function and had an illuminated indicator to let the user know it was flashing. The square black box was a wiring junction for connecting up your turn lights.
I purchased a turn signal set-up from Speedway Motors used on hot rods and the like which is secured to the steering column with a bracket. It has the 4-way emergency flasher function and a light illuminates the left, right, or emergency function. It was chrome plated, which got black paint to appear more as original. I also had to fabricate a mounting bracket to place it in its original position.
Pretty much straight forward in how to hook up the wires. The signal indicator comes with directions and a wiring diagram that is easy to follow. I incorporated those lights I wanted to us as part of my turn signal and emergency flasher indicators. I did not use the rear brake lights as part of the emergency flasher circuit, but instead, wired in the parking light function of all 4-rear lights as seen in my wiring diagram. Each rear light has 2 wires using the double filament 1157 bulbs. The outer lights are turn signal/marker lights while the inside lights are brake/marker lights, thus the 4 marker lights work as emergency flasher lights.
The 2 front marker lights that that were installed on the truck have been converted to become the right/left turn signals with the marker light feature removed. The original bulbs were a small round globe glass type to fit the light. The inside housing was slightly modified so as to fit the larger and brighter 1156 single contact amber bulbs to enhance the already amber glass lens. These were much brighter than the smaller bulbs. I soldered a wire from the bulb socket to the housing so it would ground through the truck body instead of running the ground wire out through the light and grounding it somewhere inside the truck body. I then ran the single power wire from the light through a piece of rubber tubing to neaten things up and then through the body to the inside. Soldered a length of wire to the light's power wire and ran it to the juction block to make its connection with the add-on 12-Volt turn signal selector.
Attachments
01  Original Turn Signal Selector.jpg
02  6-Volt Selector.jpg
03  12-Volt Turn Signal Selector.jpg
04  Rt Front Turn Signal.JPG
05 Rt Front - Illuminated.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:59 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Heater

The heater that was installed in the truck as received, was not a typical original "barn door" type International heater. It was an Arvin era brand heater with built-in fan and no provision for windshield heat and was most likely installed when the body conversion was done. It did not work.
Pics #1 - 4. An original International "barn door" heater said to be off a KB5 was purchased on Ebay.
Pics #5 & 6. Since it was a 6-volt system, a 12-volt conversion was done. Used a CCW rotation 12-volt replacement motor # 51-151 from Mill Supply, Inc. which needed no modifications. The heater was disassembled, cleaned, and painted - leaving the housing original and weathered. The KB5 box truck has no provisions for windshield heat by design, so the reverse motor feature was not needed. The fan blade only needed to operate in one direction to blow air through the heater core & barn doors.
Pic #7. There were holes in the firewall already drilled for the original heater core tubes and attachment points. I inserted an aluminum plate to block and plug the holes in the firewall used by the previous heater core set-up. I painted the firewall and the plate and then installed the heater. Bolted right in with no issues.
Pic #8 & 9. I decided at this time to add a water filter using WIX #24019 from Summit Racing and WIX water filter #24070. My thinking is that with a block this old, it would help keep the system clean and capture any loose or floating bits. I painted the aluminum housing green, purchased the needed water hose nipples, and length of hose. Cut and attached the hoses. No leaks.
Used an original type switch that was already installed for the heater blower motor and wired it up to the fuse box. Works great. Should never need the heater, but it is there none the less.
Attachments
01  KB5 Heater.JPG
02  KB5 Heater.JPG
03 KB5 Heater.JPG
04  KB5 Heater.JPG
05  Heater Parts.JPG
06 Heater Assembled.JPG
07  Heater Installed.JPG
08  Water Filter.JPG
09  Water Filter.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:04 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Drivers Seat Replacement

The original seat may have worked back in the day with a short skinny man driving it, but if you are tall or heavy set, it does not work at all. I am tall and so is my brother. The seat slide adjustment & track was a slot cut in the base with a stud on each side secured by a wing nut.
The seat was very difficult to get into with the document box next to it. It was removed. The gas filler is found under the bottom seat panel which has to be pulled and removed to add gas. It has a metal frame base that attaches it to the floor and which the bottom cushion and back cushion fit into - with both being poorly recovered on the plywood backings. The seat assembly was removed.
Did some measuring and found a seat from Tractor Supply that was about the same size. I then had to make a base to attach the seat and then attach to the floor and still allow access to the gas filler.
Went to my local Pull-A-Part and got a set of seat tracks from a 1993 Ford Ranger so as to make the seat adjustable. Fitted these to the seat with fabricated brackets. Then I fabricated & welded up some floor mounts to position the seat at the height I wanted it and so I could bolt everything together. Next I added a pair of door hinges to the front of the seat attachment so it would tilt forward to provide access to the gas filler neck. I used a bolt at the rear of the seat tracks that locate into a holes drilled in the floor mounts that secures the seat when it is dropped down into seating position.
I wanted to neaten up the base and make it look a little closer to the original base. I used aluminum sheet I got from work and cut to size & painted. Used small angle brackets & round head screws/nuts to attach everything together to form a "box" which was then secured to the floor.
Seat is now more comfortable, slides on a track for adjustability, and tilts forward to access the gas filler neck.
However, it was still difficult and a tight fit to get under the steering wheel. So I decided to reposition the steering column upward for more clearance.
Attachments
01  KB5.jpg
02  KB5.jpg
03  KB5 New  Seat.JPG
04  Seat.jpg
05  Seat.jpg
06  Seat.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:08 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Steering Column Adjustment

The angle of the steering column causes the steering wheel to be low and puts it right into the lap of the driver. It is a job to get into the seat and squeeze under the steering wheel. More room was needed.
To relocate the steering wheel higher up in position required rotating the steering column upward. The bracket that holds the steering column to the dash had to be removed and shortened, but shortening the bracket has to be done after the steering column is repositioned.
With the steering column bracket removed, the column is free to move. I removed the steering arm from the steering box. I removed the 2 top bolts that hold the steering box and loosened the bottom bolt which I used to pivot the steering box. I used my die grinder and carbide bit to elongate the holes I removed the bolts from. The holes are elongated with an arc in mind as you are going to rotate the steering box slightly to the left and using the remaining bolt as your pivot point. A little rotation at the box will be magnified at the steering wheel end of things.
I slotted the frame holes to get the steering column closer to the dash panel. It was not much, maybe 1/2". When done, I was able to insert one of the original bolts into the steering box and the other hole was not quite a match. I used a smaller sized fine thread Grade 8 bolt & nut from Tractor supply that went through the hole and through the bolt ear on the steering box. Tightened all the bolts down.
When reinstalling the steering arm to the steering box, you want to make sure the steering box is "centered" in its travel when turning left or right, or lock to lock Your front tires must be straight ahead, not turned left or right. I turned the steering wheel which was still in the position it was before I pulled the steering arm off and with both front tires being straight. I found that the steering box was not centered. The wheel turned 2 turns from center to lock going right and 1 turn from center to lock going left - or 3 turns total. The steering box center is 1/2 of the total number of turns it takes to go from all the way left to all the way right. Total turns were 3, so 1/2 of that is 1 1/2 turns which puts the steering box at its center of travel. NOTE: If the spokes of your steering wheel are not correct, disregard this as you are centering the steering box travel and not the steering wheel. This is done after by removing the steering wheel and repositioning it. I got the steering box centered by turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and then turning it back 1 1/2 turns to find center. If it is on center, it should then turn from that point, 1 1/2 turns to the left and stop - which it did. So turn it back to center again, 1 1/2 turns, and the steering box is now at the center of its travel. Then I reattached the steering arm and painted everything.
Next was to cut down and weld together the steering column bracket that holds the steering column to the lower dash. I cut the bracket in 2 pieces using my die grinder and cut-off wheel. I then overlapped the 2 pieces and marked how much I needed to shorten the bracket. I left extra for a little overlap as I wanted this to weld on and provide some extra strength due to the overlap. I test fit my bracket prior to welding to get the size correct. Then welded it up, painted, and reattached the bracket to the column and lower dash.
The steering wheel is now raised higher in its position and it makes it much easier to get into the drivers seat.
Attachments
01  Steering Box.JPG
02  Steering box.JPG
03  Steering box - adj.JPG
04  Sterring box.JPG
05  Original Column Support.jpg
06  Shortened Column Support.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:12 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Cowl & Cowl Vent

PHOTOS 1-4
Under the dash/firewall was rusty. There is a shelf created by the firewall and probably got rust from vent being open or not sealing well. Ripped off all firewall insulation as it only traps water/moisture.
You can see how rusty the vent is. Locked up so it would not open. Pulled it all apart to release it and get it out for re-work.
Sanded the shelf area and firewall down by hand with sandpaper to know off the loose stuff. Then applied some POR-15 I had to encapsulate the rust. Stuff works best with rust than clean metal.

PHOTOS 5-7
POR-15 dried for the week and I painted over with the green to seal everything. Should last my lifetime.

PHOTOS 8-10
Used my electrolysis bucket to remove all the heavy rust from the vent lid - took a couple days soaking. Was in tough shape, but got the rust off and painted with Rustoleum Rust encapsulator which works good. Then I painted the under side with the bedliner spray followed by a satin shade of red and tried a yellow on the top side. Cleaned up all the pins that held it together, new springs which I had, new cotter pins which I had, and reassembled. Used a sticky tape type door seal from Home Depot which was nice and soft so it compresses to seal the vent when shut. Used additional 3M gasket adhesive to further keep it stuck. Works good now!
Attachments
01  Firewall rust.jpg
02  Firewall Rust.jpg
03  Firewall rust.jpg
04  Vent rust.jpg
05  Firewall POR-15.jpg
06  Firewall painted.jpg
07  Firewall painted.jpg
08  Vent painted.jpg
09  Vent open.jpg
10  Vent closed.jpg

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:15 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Glove Box

There was no glove box insert, just a badly beat up glove box door. Rather than purchase an aftermarket glove box insert, I found that a plastic tool box at my local Dollar Tree store had the needed outside dimensions to fit the glove box door opening.
Removed the lid and fitted and trimmed the box to fit perfectly onto the dash. I used the factory attachment screw locations.
I added a USB/cigarette plug-in stand alone adapter to the box to make it more modern friendly for electronic devices. Wired it up to the fuse block.
I had to straighten the glove box door as someone had pried it open and bent it. Added a new key lock switch from Home Depot and an era period pull knob not shown in this photo. Works perfectly.
Attachments
01  $1 Tool Box.JPG
02  USB Port Added.JPG
03  Installed Tool Box & USB Port.JPG
04  Glove Box Door & Key Lock.JPG
05  Key Lock & Pull Knob.JPG
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