1948 KB5 Railway Express


The place to put your K or KB "Build Off" story.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Mar 05, 2023 9:36 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Red Rims

Had some good weather so I repainted the KB rims in a Rustoleum red to match the red rims used by REA trucks. Washed the rims down with "Totally Awesome" cleaner available locally, followed with a water rinse, blow dried them with my compressor/air gun, hand sanded with 80 grit, and then brush painted. Driver's side done and passenger side is next.
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 5187

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Mon Mar 06, 2023 8:27 am

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Nice, I have 6 of my own to do, did one already. My K-7 came so original, it still had it's spare! Disk wheels are pain to get into all the nooks and crannies to paint. I am a "spokes-person" myself, and my other trucks all have demounable rims, which are much easier to clean and paint.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Tue Mar 07, 2023 7:33 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

I didn't do anything fancy with these as I simply did not want to put the time having the tires/tubes dismounted, then sandblasting, priming, and then painting. Not a restoration or show truck, just refurbish - a good 25 footer quality.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Tue Mar 07, 2023 7:40 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Passenger Fender Part 1


The repairs on the passenger fender are done just like the driver side, so not all the specific details are mentioned here, this is the streamlined version.

Pic #1 - As seen before, after I had the outside of the fenders/hood sandblasted I painted a coat of POR-15 to protect and keep from rusting until I could get to each piece.

Pic #2 - This fender was actually worse than the driver side. Here I sandblasted the rear-bottom area of the fender getting it ready for repairs.

Pic #3 - This is the front-bottom of the fender.

Pic #4 - My choice is to use a screen backing behind the rusted hole and fill it with the fiberglass bondo. I wanted a smooth/solid surface for my patch attachment.

Pic #5 - Cut a flat metal strip to form for my patch, laid it onto position, and then drilled my holes to Cleco it to the fender. Allow the metal to overhang the fender so the edges can be folder over the fender on the sides and underneath. I used my torches to heat the metal at the edges to make them pliable ad used a body hammer to roll the medal and conform to the fender.

Pic #6 - After shaping my patch, I removed it to grind both sides clean. Then I applied my layer of JB Weld on the fender, placed the patch on top, and secured it with the Cleco's and clamps to let it dry.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Tue Mar 07, 2023 7:46 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Passenger Fender Part 2



Pic #7 - Cleco's and clamps removed and the excess JB ground off. I used a large drill to drill each of the Cleco holes to create a shallow depth taper for the fiberglass bondo to grab to and not pull through.

Pic #8 - Fiberglass bondo applied, sanded/shaped, and epoxy spot putty applied and sanded. It is ready for primer.

Pic #9 - Primer'd and ready to go. Just have to back-drill my 2 holes in the lower fender for attachment to the truck's fender mount.

Pic #10 - Lower front area repaired and in primer.

Pic #11 - Winter had taken hold and I threw a primer coat on the fender to protect it until warmer weather.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Tue Mar 07, 2023 7:54 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Passenger Fender Part 3

Pic #12 - Warm weather has arrived and I sanded off the primer/POR-15 leaving my earlier repairs alone. Here you can see how the POR-15 highlights all the dings and dents in the fender - city deliveries seem to beat up fenders.

Pic #13 - Here is the rear section of the fender - more dents.

Pic #14 - I used my hammer/body dolly to knock many of the dents smoother so less bondo is used for filling. The fenders won't be perfect, but not going for a 100 point restoration either. First application of the fiberglass bondo. Let it cure and the sand to cotour the shape. I run my open hand over the repaired areas to feel the highs/lows in the fiberglass as I sand. I use a body shop long sanding board and sand in several directions to get the repairs to follow the fender contour - too much sanding in one place ca leave a "hollow" or "dip" instead of a rounder shape that follows the fender. Flat panels are much easier to do, curved panels can be difficult.

Pic #15 - Sanded the first application of bondo and then come back to fill/build up any low spots and sand these down smooth.

Pic #16 - Finished sanding the fiberglass bondo and ready for a coating of epoxy spot putty.

Pic #17 - The epoxy spot putty was applied over all the fiberglass bondo and then gets sanded with a finer grit leaving a smooth finish ready for primer. I then stripped the remainder of the POR-15 on the back half of the fender. The lip that the hood sets down on was badly pitted, but not rotted through. I put a layer of fiberglass bondo on it and smoothed it out. I also filled in the fender seam with fiberglass bondo and sanded instead of using a calking application as I did on the driver side.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Tue Mar 07, 2023 8:02 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Passenger Fender Part 4


Here is the end results. The passenger fender is now in primer. I'll set it aside with the other fender and hood. Next up will be the challenge of saving the grille shell. It is the worst of the lot and will take some doing, but I am up for the job. When all are done, my plan is to sand/rough-up the primer on all the panels and spray a final coat of epoxy primer to seal the pieces and leave a good base to lay down a final cover coat of Hunter Green. So getting closer to completion.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sat Apr 01, 2023 9:16 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Grille Repairs - Part 1


The grille panel is in poor shape with much rust, holes, and pitting. Several of the grille ribs are rusted away and broken free. Previous owner made a few poor repairs to keep the ribs intact, but most of the grille ribs are beyond repair. Sandblasting them would have destroyed them due to their weakness and I did not want to use what I had only to have the grille/ribs deteriorate further. So a little background on my plan to repair the grille.

I decided that the ribs had to be replaced with new metal. My idea was to have a left and right panel, 18 Ga., fabricated. Using a laser cutter, a computer program could be made with the needed dimensions and then input those into the laser cutter and the laser would make the cuts in the metal to create the 16 ribs, and also cut out the smaller holes in each rib for the stainless steel trim attachment pins. Then each panel could be roll formed to the shape/contour of the grille, and I would weld tabs to each panel in its center and bolt the 2 halves together. I planned on coring the grille center section by cutting the rotted ribs free from the sides, top, and bottom of the main grille panel and weld the new laser cut panels onto the main grille section. Seemed like a sound plan.

Brought the grille section, my drawings showing the size of the panels needed, all the size & spacing dimensions of the ribs, the holes in the ribs for the trim,and where I had intended to weld the panels to the grille shell. I even marked the grille shell with a Sharpie showing where the outer panel would be welded onto each side. I then had 2 sheets of information with all the detailed dimensions which clearly noted that this was to be a left & right panel replacement. Dropped all my items at the fabrication shop last October 2021 and spoke with the man in charge and explained what I wanted - he understood. Said they were very busy and backed up with work, so I told him no rush as winter was here and I can't work outside on the truck, so use it as a fill in job.

I had to call the shop in late June 2022 and reminded them about my parts. They said 2 weeks. Did not hear from them after a month. Called again and was told 2 weeks and they would call. They called 2 weeks later and said your parts are ready, $142.00 for a collection of roll formed strips of steel. My heart sank when he said strips of steel - I wanted 2 laser cut panels roll formed. I picked up my "strips" and grille and was gracious about it, and it was not worth telling the same guy who I explained what I wanted that he did it wrong and I did not want to find another fabrication shop and wait for months.

Here is "Plan B" which I had also thought about doing, but the laser cut panels would have been much easier on me and far less work.

Pics #1- #2 - Looking at the grille you can see several bad ribs and a previous pop rivet repair made just to keep them together. Plenty of rust between the center where they join.

Pic #3 - This is a box of cut and roll formed 18 Ga. strips. More than I need but I did use most of them. Not sure how the shop figured the number I needed. The ribs strips have a flatter curve on one end than the other to match the factory grille rib shape and stainless trim that goes on top.

Pic #4 - I had to come up with a piece of angled steel to make an attachment point in the center for each of the rib strips. I was not going to use any part of the old rib section as I planned to "core" it out just as I would have using the 2 intended panels. I went to Home Depot and walked the aisles. The metal bin had angled steel, but the gauge was too heavy. Found a shelving track - the kind with slots in it that you insert a shelf bracket to make your shelves. The 68" Utility Track cost $8.98 and is U-shaped. My plan was to cut it right down the slotted track to make 2 smaller 90 degree angle pieces to attach my steel rib strips. In the photo is the shelving track of which I cut down to 24" and then split it down the middle to make 2 separate angled pieces.

Pic #5 - The split half shelving track fits perfect to the grille with the shorter flange going into the center with the wider flange to be used as the attachment point for each steel rib strip.

Pic #6 - I taped the left shelving track angle to the grille where I plan to fit it. I fit and cut one of the rib strips down so that it fit on top of the left side of the grille's rib where it will be attached, with the right end butted up against the angle. I then taped it in place. This will be my "base," or bottom half section, of a 2-piece rib strip used in making the new ribs.

Pics #7- #8 - I then took another steel rib and placed it on top of my "base" rib. It lines up even with the base steel rib at the left side, but then goes over the top of it on the right side and the end is cut at a point about even with the center angle's edge where it will be attached. I taped this in place and then laid a stainless steel trim pieces along the lower edge of steel rib to check the contour and fit. The fit of the trim was good and I now had a working plan.

Pic #9 - I did not want to use any heat to join my 2 steel rib pieces together (the bottom base and top rib) for fear of warping them. A spot welder would have been the perfect solution, but I don't have one and was not going to buy one for this small job. My alternative was to bond them together. I found a product at Home Depot called "Fuse-It Max" by Liquid Nails in a black/gold tube that said bonds metal. So for $11.74, I am game, and also bought 4 of the .98 cent spring clamps. I cleaned & sanded the 2 rib strip surfaces that were to be glued together, applied an even layer of the Fuse-It with my finger, and clamped them together to dry overnight.

Pic #10 - Clamps removed and the 2 pieces glued together to make 1 steel rib. This completed rib would act as my rib template for all the other ribs I made.

Pic #11 - Sadly, most of the roll forming was not consistent nor accurate as some had too much bend, others did not have enough, and a number were close. So my glued steel rib template was used to re-shape the strips as needed. First I had to mark & cut the base rib strip to size by marking a line with a fine point Sharpie then use my die grinder and cut-off wheel to cut the rib to match the template size.

The top strip shows the difference in the roll formed curvature when laid on top of the glued rib template below it. I flipped the rib strip from one side to the other to get the best curvature fit with the glued template rib and then reshaped as needed.

To reshape the rib, pictured is this home made tool I use to shape wire into "S" curves - it worked for the ribs. I placed the rib in the small cut-out you see between the tube and the welded-on flat stock. The flat stock holds the rib in place as you gently push down on the rib to "roll" it over the round stock. The steel rib at the bottom is one I adjusted.

Pic #12 - Photo shows how the tool works. Slip the rib strip in the slot under the flat stock and gently roll/bend it around the tubing as needed to adjust the shape. It takes very little pressure to add more curvature to the flat rib. I add more curvature at the points where you see the steel rib lift off the template and then test fit. Repeat as needed until the adjusted rib lays on top of the template rib without any gaps, or maybe a sliver of a gap. You get the hang of it pretty quick and know how/where to make your bends - takes very little pressure/effort to adjust the rib using this tool so you do not over bend. If you do, just flip your piece over in the tool and gently bend it back a bit. Using your hands/thumbs to do this makes a mess of the bends, but can be done.


Pic #13 - I painted the top rib strip I reshaped in red so you could clearly see how well it came out using my tool. It matches my glued rib template below it. I will do this for 16 bottom ribs for each side (total of 32 ribs), and then measure/cut/reshape my top rib strips. I found that I could glue a 2-piece rib together, lay them on wax paper, and stack 5 together like a sandwich making sure only to glue the 2-piece rib together, and then clamp them all with my clamps. Once cured, I used a file to sand the glue that squeezes out of the 2-piece rib sides and then separated each 2-piece rib from the others. Then I did another 5 ribs until I had all 32 ribs done.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sat Apr 01, 2023 9:28 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Grille Repair - Part 2

Pic #14 - The lower section of the grille was damaged. The metal was rusty and thin with a lot of rust-through holes.

Pic #15 - The first thing was to do a little straightening and aligning of the damage and tack weld the 2 halves together to keep the pieces together and strengthen them.

Pic #16 - Here is the inside of the grille. Not pretty. The areas that were next to or around the ribs were rusty and the metal thinned.

Pic #17 - I used paint stripper to get some of the old paint off. Then I lightly sandblasted the grille just to get it slightly cleaner and expose a lot of the rust. I did not want to sandblast the grille clean as It would take me a lot of time. So after I do my repairs I will take the grille shell to the dustless blaster that I used for the rear doors and have the grille blasted and epoxy primed. I did sandblast to bare metal the areas that the new 2-piece ribs will be attached.

Pic #18 - I sandblasted the lower inner section of the grille and the strip on each side of the grille ribs where repairs will be made.

Pic #19 - Close-up of the sandblasted lower inner section and how flimsy and rotted the metal is.

Pic #20 - #22 - I chose to use a heavy weave fiberglass cloth and fiberglass resin to lay over the lower inner section to strengthen it and fill the rusted out areas. I trimmed the cloth to fit in the lower sections doing the right side and then the left side. I applied the fiberglass resin mix to the blasted metal then set the cloth onto the resin. Then I poured additional resin over the cloth to saturate it so no dry areas were left in the cloth. This takes a little effort to work the resin into the cloth using a plastic bondo spreader. Once the cloth is saturated it is left to harden. Then the left side was done.

Pic #23 - I sandblasted clean a strip area on each side of the grill ribs where the stainless trim attaches. The metal was thin and had several pin hole rust-through places which can be seen to the right of the 7 trim mounting holes. I decided I wanted to add a little more support to this area with a thin strip of metal. The cured left side fiberglass mat can be seen just below this area.

Pic #24 - I got a piece of scrap aluminum pre-painted sheet metal from work that measured 13/16" wide and 4 feet long. The section I needed to repair was 17" long, so the correct size was cut - 13/16" x 17". I clamped the piece on the inside of the grille with the white paint out. Then used a Sharpie to mark/outline the small exposed areas between the grille ribs that I had to trim and remove.

Pic #25 - I used my die grinder and a small tip carbide cutting bit to grind away the aluminum sheet and shape it. Took several fittings and grinding to get it to fit as I wanted. I then sanded the paint off. You can see the aluminum strip set into place on the grill which looks like a big saw-tooth blade.

Pic #26 - With both sides done, I applied my favorite JB Weld to the aluminum and then set it back down on top of the metal grille. I used several clamps to hold the strips in place. The JB Weld along with the aluminum strip will make a hardened sandwich and add strength to the thinned metal and the JB will fill in the pin holes.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sat Apr 01, 2023 9:34 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Grille Repair - Part 3


Next up was installing the new grille ribs.

Pic #27 - In order to get the ribs evenly spaced I made 2 spacer blocks 5/8" wide and screwed onto them the flat aluminum pieces to keep the blocks from dropping through the grille opening. Th photo orientation of the grille set sideways to work on provides a "top" and "bottom" seen in the photos. I used one spacer at the top and one at the bottom of the grille openings.

Pic #28 - With the new ribs spaced apart, the ribs are set on the outer (bottom) section of the grille shell. The top of the rib is located at the grille half centerline. Attachment is done by drilling a 1/8" hole and using a1/8" pop rivet having a short 1/8" shank length. I drilled through the new rib and into the old rib underneath it and then inserted my pop rivet to attach it into place and used the pop rivet gun to affix the rib. Then I moved on to the next rib using my spacer blocks and repeated until done.

Pic #29 - Here are all the new ribs pop rivetted in place. Only the bottoms of each rib were done at this point.

Pic #30 - I fitted and inserted the grille's center angle that I had fabricated from the shelf bracket. This was used as the attachment point for the tops of the new ribs. Using my spacers, I repeated what I did on the bottom - drilled and pop rivetted. Here all the ribs are in place, but this is only a temporary attachment to get the ribs evenly spaced and all my attachment points in place. I will have to disassemble and prep parts to do the final attachment.

Pic #31 - Comparison photo of the left side with its new ribs versus the original right side still to be done. The small oval hole at the bottom of the grille needs a little attention as well. I will make a thin steel plate that copies the shape and install it.
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