Rusty Driver
Posts: 195
Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm
Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express
The remainder of the wiring used on the truck was the standard plastic covered wiring purchased at any local parts store or online. Fortunately, where I work we have long lengths of wiring that are included in some of the add-on electrical options we install. I used a number of these lengths in making the needed wiring for the truck. I use crimp type wire ends, but additionally solder and use shrink wrap tubing to complete the ends. ALWAYS slip the heat shrink tubing onto the stripped end of your wiring BEFORE you solder on a wiring connector (ask me how I know this, LOL). Keep it far enough away from the heat so it does not shrink up before its time (another learned lesson). Let the solder cool, then slip the heat shrink over the connection and apply heat to shrink Liquid electrical tape also comes in handy in some places, especially if you have 2 wires joined and there is a gap between the 2. I just fill the gap with a little liquid tape to seal.
To keep many of the wires from hanging loose or needing a bunch of wire hold down clamps (which can look poor), I used 1/4" metal brake line tubing to run some of the wiring through. It protects the wiring from any rubbing or sharp edges that may wear through the wiring over time, and looks neater. I cut the flared ends & fitting off first. Ream out the hole a bit as a brake tube cutter will leave a burr on the inside of the line and depending on the size of the casing on the wire, can cause it to hang up. Next cut the tubing to length, if needed, and then slipped the wiring through the brake line. It should go through smoothly. Any kinks in the wiring can become a problem, so make sure the wire is straight. If I needed to bend-to-fit any of the brake lines, I used a brake line bending tool and did this after running the wiring through the brake line, other wise the wiring will not pass through any bends. If I needed an extra length or 2 of the brake line, I would cut a short length of rubber gas/vacuum hose having the same inside diameter of the outside of the brake tubing and use this as a means to connect the 2 pieces of brake tubing together. Then bend any areas as needed. Then when done and wiring length determined, strip the ends, add the heat shrink tubing first, then wiring connector end and solder - keeping the shrink tubing far enough away from the heat so it does not shrink. Let cool then slide heat shrink over the soldered connections and draw the heat shrink down with a little heat/flame. Then I use either a formed metal wire clamp to secure the brake tubing neatly down or even a zip-tie can work.
Where I had multiple wires that were to be joined together to a common power wire, such as the 4 marker lights of the rear brake lights, I cut each wire length so they terminated at the same point together and then used a round eyelet crimp end on each end of the wire, soldered & heat shrink. I then joined then all together along with the power wire with a small machine screw/nut passing through the eyelets and tightened them down. Then cover the union generously with the liquid electrical tape to protect or use electrical tape, or both, to protect from grounding out and moisture.
I found it difficult to pass my wiring from the rear lights of the truck along the inside of the frame rail. There are holes in the frame crossmembers which were easy enough and I used rubber grommets to protect the wiring, but when I got near the transmission and gas tank area, it got tight and was near impossible to snake wiring through let alone protect it from future rubbing - and I did not want to pull the gas tank. I used a length of PCV pipe that was stiff enough that I could pass it along the frame rail and by the transmission up to the floor area where it came out near the battery. I cut it to length so it was only used where needed. Then it was possible to feed the wiring through the pipe and right up to the floor area and in close proximity of my fuse box for later hook-up. Fastened the pipe down and my problem in feeding wire through this tight area was solved.
I added a fuse block at the left side drivers kick panel area as all the wires for the truck lighting ran on the left side. I add the fuse block to protect the electrical circuits as part of the add-on wiring system I was making for the truck. The factory wiring did not incorporate a fuse box and this made it easier to add electrical upgrades and protect it with fuses should anything short out.
I used an 8-place push-in style fuse block. The power source was taken straight off the starter solenoid lug by running an 8 gauge wire from the lug, along the firewall, and to the fuse block. This provides a separate 12-volt power source isolated from the factory wiring harness so as not to overload it and to protect it from shorting out or burning up any wiring. This means that the fuse box is always energized even with the ignition key off as the starter solenoid lug is directly connected to the positive terminal on the battery. To eliminate the chance of an electrical issue in any part of either the factory type replacement wiring or my add-on wiring, I added a master shut-off switch that disconnects all power from the battery.
I also added a junction block/strip directly above the fuse box which made it much easier to connect wires in series, for example the turn signals. The turn signal indicator only requires 1 power wire for activation which is hooked to the fuse block for its power. But, I had to connect in series the left rear/left front turn signal light, right rear/right front turn signal light, and emergency flasher function. The junction block makes this easy to accomplish, and it also allows easier testing, diagnosis, and isolation if an electrical problem arises.