1948 KB5 Railway Express


The place to put your K or KB "Build Off" story.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:24 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

1948 KB5 Sun Visor

The original sun visor is made by The Fulton Company of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. The visor was in poor shape and rather than have a new factory style visor made, a replacement was fabricated using a tinted 1/4" thick acrylic sheet ordered from United States Plastic Corporation in Lima, Ohio.

The sun visor was removed from the visor's arm by removing the larger round head clamp screw and square nut, and then grinding down the heads of the 3 rivets that hold the arm's attachment plate to the visor and knocking them through. The sun visor arm was sanded, repainted, and let dry.
Dimensions of the original visor is 16 1/2" long x 6 1/2" tall. This was then transferred to the protective paper covering on the 1/4" sheet using an 18" ruler and pen and the corners of the original visor were used to trace the curve of the corners.

Using a die grinder with cut-off wheel, the 1/4" sheet was cut down following the outside of the pen lines. The corners were trimmed down, but material was left to finish the corners more accurately. Then using a belt sander, the 1/4" sheet was finished on its egde following the pen lines along with the corners shaped to match the pen lines. For a final finish along the sanded edges use a fine grit wet sandpaper to smooth.

A centerline was made on the 1/4" sheet. The sun visor's triangular attachment plate was fitted onto the 1/4" sheet visor and lining up the rivet hole at the base of the attachment plate with the line to center it. Then use a marker/pen to mark the 3 holes of the attachment plate onto the protective paper as these marks will be used to mark where the attachment holes will be drilled. Remove the visor arm from the sheet visor.
Three #6-32 X 1/2" round head screws/nuts are used in place of the rivets that were removed. Carefully drill 3 (three) 9/64" holes using the marker/pen points. Peel away enough paper so it does not get behind the arm's attachment plate, slide attachment plate down over the 1/4" sheet lining up the 3 holes in the 1/4" sheet and affix the 3 #6 screws/nuts. I used the Blue Loctite on the #6 screws.

Reinstall the sun visor assembly to the truck in its original position using the existing screw holes and 2 (two) 1/4" x 3/4" stainless steel round head phillips screws. I also fabricated a thin metal hanger that goes under the arm of the sun visor to keep the sun visor at rest and from moving about. I used a factory drilled hole to attach the hanger. When done, peel away the remaining protective paper.

I also added 2 LED interior lights in the drivers compartment above the visor and aiming down. A toggle switch on the top post turns the lights on and off.
Attachments
01  Visor.JPG
02  Visor.JPG
03  Visorj.JPG
04  Visor.jpg
05   Visor.jpg
06  Visor.jpg
07 Driver interior lights.jpg

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:30 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

The Dash & Wiring

Photo #1 is a refurbed set of dash controls on Ebay used for reference. I refurbed the pull controls that were on my truck. They did not work too well having rust in them. I was able to pull all the cable wires from their casings. I had to straighten a couple kinks so they worked freely, and then I used anti-seize to lube everything up which got them sliding as they should.

Photo #2 - The plastic pull knobs were in sorry shape and one was badly split. I used a small wood screw to pin the badly split control. Then I used a plastic epoxy as needed to repair each control. The names on each front control had faded and were worn down. To refurb them, I ordered pre-laser etched plastic name tags for the front of each control. I ordered then online from MyNameBadges. I went with a custom size of .075" x 3" made in green with the white lettering. I had to trim to fit, then epoxied on, sanded them to blend in with the control shape, and painted the remaining control surface to match the green tags. Took a coupe weeks as it was a slow process. Not the same as the original, but I think they look good. I then installed them into the dash and hooked them up to the engine. The LIGHT control gets installed when the light switch is installed in the dash.

Photo #3 - My brother purchased a refurbished/rebuilt dash gauge cluster to replace the original. Since I had swapped over to a 12V system, I had to reduce voltage going to the 6V gauges. I went with the "Runtz 12v to 6V Voltage Reducers" purchased from Speedway Motors. Each gauge, except the AMP gauge, required a reducer but I only used 2 of them because one of the gauges feeds off the power from another. The AMP gauge connections are reversed when hooked up to account for the change from a positive ground to negative ground system.
The Rhode Island Wiring wiring harness, which includes the dash gauges and switches, engine compartment connections, and nose lighting, was attached to the gauge cluster and the ignition & light switch all at the same time. Each wire is numbered to match the factory wiring diagram, which is included with the harness if you don't have the shop manual. The gauge cluster and switches get installed from the back of the dash so you can easily hook up all the wiring before installation. The wire harness is then fed through the firewall opening and into the engine compartment where the gauge cluster wires attach to the engine.

Photo #4-6 is the gauge cluster installed in the dash, the harness coming through the firewall with a new reproduction firewall grommet installed, and the wires hooked up.

Photo #7 - schematic for the Ignition Switch. It is simply a 12V on/off switch. All 3 posts are connected together, so it does not matter which one has the 12V supply going to it. The other 2 will also be energized with 12V as soon as the key switch is turned on, making all three posts live 12V. As safety precaution, I added a small flush mounted 5/16" green LED light next to the Ignition Switch taking up an existing hole already in the dash. When the key is turned on and power is being supplied, the green light is lit up. So if the engine is not running and you left the key in the "On" position, you will know by the light.

Photo #8 - schematic for the Light Switch. There is a bi-metal strip with points that act to shut off power should there be a short and the light switch heats up. The 12V power supply is connected to #1. On my switch, this feature was locked together cancelling its function. The back of the switch has the letters "R", "S", "H", & "B" as seen in the diagram. I used an Ohm meter to figure out which terminals did what as you pulled the switch. I numbered each connection found on the back of the switch to which your wiring will attach and note its function. I purchased another NOS switch off Ebay, but it was not for the KB5. It has a similar set-up and could be used if needed, but it was from a 1937 Graham.
Attachments
01  KB5 Dash Controls.jpg
02  Pull controls refurbed.jpg
03  Gauges, Light switch, Ignition switch wired up.JPG
04  Dash completed.jpg
05  New Firewall grommet.jpg
06  Wires hooked up.jpg
07  KB5 Ignition Switch.jpg
08  KB5 Light Switch.jpg

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:32 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Horn Button Repair

The horn button did not work when I got the truck. The button in the center of the steering wheel was compressed down and did not "spring" up. I pulled the horn button off by prying it. It was suggested to turn it to release it, but not this one. Someone must have been in here before and either tried to replace parts or installed something wrong. The small tangs on the horn button grab the three blocks you see in the photo. Except when they grab, they pull the button down to its bottom most travel and it acts like it is jammed.
Removed the 3 screws that hold the metal ring and 3 plastic blocks to it. I found if I shimmed under the screws with flat washers, it raised the attachment blocks and the horn button which now had enough travel to spring up and not make continual contact with center pin - which when it does grounds the electrical connection through the pin and completes the ground circuit that then sounds the horn.

Of course trying to snap the horn button back on broke off the edge of one of the brittle plastic blocks. Argh! The delicate fix was to reattach the busted ear by means of drilling a pilot hole into the block and using 2 very small wood screws to pin it into place while joining it with JB Weld. I sanded a little on one of the horn button snaps so I would not have to bang it back into place and break the ear again. I also contoured it so I could this time get 2 horn button tangs attached and then rotate it a little to go into final position and lock. Seemed to work and it all went together with no further issues. Horn now works off the horn button as it should.
I have seen the fix using the tow motor button as a replacement and should there be any further problems, I'll go that route. But so far so good.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:42 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Tachometer

I wanted a tachometer to know what the engine RPM's were. I found a photo showing a tach from an International KB7 and used this as my pattern. I purchased a 12-volt VDO 3 3/8" 0-3000 RPM tach (Part #333-199) seeing the KB5 has been converted over to a 12-volt system. The Green Diamond engine is rated 93HP at a maximum 3,400 RPM which is more than the 3,000 RPM of the VDO tach. I don't foresee the engine being run at or turned up tight to 3,400 RPM on each shift so I went with the available 3,000 RPM tach.
I disassembled the tach per a video found on YouTube, removing the bezel/glass and RPM needle. Then I removed the plastic face plate having the RPM numbers and scale. I contacted CAD Graphics based out of Florida online to make a custom gauge overlay. I emailed a drawing I had made based on the KB7 tach to see if this could be done. The next step was to mail the VDO faceplate to CAD Graphics along with my drawing and specific directions on what features I had to have, ie. the old era font on the lettering, the triangle indicators on the RPM scale, the International logo.

The design was crafted using a CAD-CAM program and several emails were exchanged to get the design where I wanted it. The final design had a white background, but this was changed to a light tan to work with the KB5 gauge cluster background color. The overlay matched exactly the VDO RPM scale so no calibrations would be needed from one scale to the other.

The new overlay was made and installed by CAD Graphics and the faceplate mailed back to me. Cost of the design work, making the overlay and applying it was $50.00 plus shipping.

I then reassembled the new faceplate on the tach body and secured it to its plastic housing using the 3 screws that held it in place. I did not completely assemble it at this time as I had to ensure the placement of the RPM needle was correct. I made up my wiring for the tach hook-up and the backlighting as no wiring comes with the tach. I affixed only one end with connectors leaving the opposite end alone until I could cut to length and then solder on my connectors. I swapped out the 2 filament type bulbs used for lighting with 2 LED tower bulbs. In keepig with the original style cloth cover wiring harness I purchased from Rhode Island Wiring, I got a 10' length of green cloth covered 18 Ga wire that I ran from the coil to the tach and later cut my length as needed.
I tested the backlighting and found a problem. These LED lights were bright, but due to the design of the VDO faceplate, the backlighting was designed to bleed through and illuminated the tach RPM numbers and perimeter scale lines. This shined through the thin overlay and was not what I wanted. I had to remove the 3 screws that attached the tach electronics to the outer housing and pull it apart in order to get the the backside of the plastic faceplate. My thinking was to black out the numbers that were shining through. So I used black model paint and a brush to paint over the numbers only on the back side of the plastic faceplate. I left the RPM scale lines unpainted. This did block the light from shining through the numbers and left the RPM scale lines on the perimeter to back light the RPM scale on the overlay for a lighting effect that worked out well for night lighting.

The RPM needle on the VDO gauge was bulky, had a modern era look, and utilized the built in back lighting which did not match the "antique" era look of the tach face. I had an RPM needle from another tach that had the look I wanted. I had to disassemble the VDO needle and then bond the tach needle I wanted on top of the VDO needle using JB Weld and did some sanding to get it looking correct. Painted the base black and the needle Chevy engine orange.

I tested the tach on the running KB5 engine. Hooked up some temporary wiring to the tach. Energized the tach by supplying power to it and then disconnected as this is said to position the tach movement where the needle can be installed to read "0" on the RPM scale. I pressed the needle onto its pin just snug enough not to fall off, but still loose enough that I could pull it off if the needle was not placed correctly. I used my 1980 Craftsman engine analyzer with its RPM function to match the VDO tach function. I started the engine and the tach came to life. The RPM needle placement was correct and the tach function matched my Craftsman RPM indicator perfectly. Engine was shut down and I gave the RPM needle a final push to seat it completely on its rotating center pin.

I did a final reassembly of the tach installing the glass & chrome bezel. I then located a place on the dash next to the gauge cluster and used a 3 3/8" hole saw to cut my hole. Ran the wires I had previously made to the back of the tach and then cut the opposite ends to the length needed for hooking them up per the instructions. Soldered on my ends and used heat shrink tubing to seal. I used a separate toggle switch connected to the fuse block using a 3 AMP fuse for the back lighting. Inserted the tach into the hole and attached.
Attachments
01  VDO Tachometer #333-199.jpg
02  VDO faceplate.jpg
03  New Overlay.jpg
04  KB5 Tach.JPG
05  KB5 Tach.JPG
06  KB5 Tach.JPG
07  KB5 Tach.JPG

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:49 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Master Cylinder & External Brake Fluid Tank Part 1

The KB5 has a Wagner-Lockheed brake fluid reservoir tank mounted on the firewall. Photo #1 & #2. The top unscrews and has an attached dipstick to indicate the brake fluid level in the reservoir. A connecting line attaches it to a bronze ring having a hole on its inside radius that is sandwiched between the top of the master cylinder and under the master cylinder fill cover. The fill cover is made taller in height to match the bronze ring and has a hole in its outer radius allowing the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder from the firewall mounted reservoir tank. A large copper O-ring is used on top & bottom of the bronze ring to form a seal once the master cylinder fill cover is tightened down. With the large truck brakes, this reservoir tank adds capacity to the master cylinder's reservoir and makes it easy for the driver or mechanic to check and monitor the brake fluid level.

The master cylinder that came with the truck was the wrong one - Photo #3. It was the 777 master cylinder used on the larger trucks and had a bore of 1 3/4". The original KB5 without power brakes calls for a master cylinder with a bore of 1 1/4". Luckily, the original master cylinder, Wagner-Lockheed FE 1686, was still with the truck. It was in rough shape and the piston stuck which I had to remove before sending out for the rebuild. It was sent to Apple Hydraulics in Calverton, NY, to be sleeved and rebuilt. Very fast turn around time on the completed cylinder.

Photo #4 shows the original master cylinder, the firewall mounted brake fluid reservoir tank with its line connecting to the bronze ring.

Photo #5 & #6 show the bronze ring and the hole in the ring which allows the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder's reservoir.

Photo #7 & #8 show the rebuilt original master cylinder and it re-installed to the frame.
The master cylinder pushrod appeared worn at the brake pedal end - the hole was slightly worn where it slips over the 1/2" hardened pin of the brake pedal. The rod also has a slight angle to it going into the master cylinder cup. I decided to replace part of the pushrod using the end that goes into the master cylinder and has the machined nut/threads on it to which the end attaching to the brake pedal screws into and adjusts for length. Each half of the brake pushrod measured 5 1/8" end to end, with the upper section measuring from the center of the brake pin hole to its end as 4 3/4".

Photo #9 shows the original brake pushrod end I replaced with a Grade 8, 4" x 7/16"-20 threaded bolt. I cut the head off with a die grinder/cut-off wheel and had my local fab shop thread the smooth shank to match the already threaded end to create a threaded rod. I purchased a Heim Joint end having a 7/16"-20 thread and 1/2" bore to match the brake pedal pin diameter, and screwed it onto the Grade 8 threaded rod. The lock nut at the base of the rod was installed and then the rod threaded into the lower section having the machined nut. The brake pushrod was installed on the brake pedal pin, adjusted, and lock nut tightened down.

Photo #10 shows the brake pushrod installed and you can see the slight angle of the rod as it angles from the brake pedal pin slightly left towards the master cylinder mounted on the frame bracket & frame. The Heim Joint is designed to allow for angular installations and it's center rotates for a smoother operation that won't wear out like the original end did. You can also see in the photo the 12V brake switch I mounted that the Heim Joint activates rather then the factory type master cylinder pressure type switch found at the brake line fitting at the front right of the master cylinder. I have it installed, but did not connect it to a power supply.
Attachments
01 Brake Fluid Reservoir.JPG
02  Brake Fluid Reservoir.jpg
03  Wrong Master Cyl.JPG
04  Original MC, Brake Fluid Reservoir, Fluid Line & End.jpg
05  The Ring which fits around MC Top.jpg
06  Hole in Ring to Supply MC.jpg
07  Rebuilt Master Cylinder.JPG
08  Master Cyl Installed.JPG
09   Brake Rod.JPG
10  Brake Rod.jpg

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 7:52 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Mater Cylinder Part 2

Photo #11 shows the prepped and painted parts of the firewall mounted brake fluid reservoir - the main body, the reservoir tank top with measured dipstick, and the firewall mounting bracket. Green is not original, but I wanted an International Harvester green to make it stand out a little. I also installed a WARNING: DOT 3 Brake Fluid fill sticker onto the mounting bracket.

Photo #12 shows the reservoir mounted back in place on the firewall.

Photo #13 shows the components I had to use to replace the original line that connects the reservoir to the bronze ring. In trying to remove the corroded line from th bronze ring, I busted part of the threaded end of the bronze ring off, taking with it a chunk that has the hole drilled in it that the brake fluid flows through. The threaded end was cast like a "neck" and was then threaded to receive the end of the rubber brake hose. There was not enough material to add any threads, so I had my machine shop open up the brake fluid hole and tap the threads onto the inside of the broken "neck" so that I could install a a threaded adapter used for oil pressure gauges, Auto Meter part #3280.

The hard line coming from the base of the reservoir tank used a brass adapter mated to a 5/16" copper tube. The copper tube was then fitted with a 5/16" rubber brake hose so it could make the bend going to the top of the master cylinder at the fill cap. I could not find anything in 5/16" to replace these, so I used a 3/8" steel line/end fitted to a flexible length of high pressure brake fluid line (you cannot use hydraulic line used for hydraulic cylinders and the like) which I cut to length. I then used a 3/8" barbed fitting on the other end that screwed into my adapter on the bronze ring. There is no pressure in the line as it is simply a gravity feed reservoir tank, so hose clamps were used to secure the ends. Everything went together perfectly.

Photo #14 & #15 show the hose in place connecting the reservoir tank to the master cylinder reservoir. The close-up shows how the bronze ring mounts atop of the master cylinder. I purchased a large socket to tighten the fill cap as there is little room to swing a wrench and secure it tight enough to crush the copper O-ring seals and prevent leaking.
Attachments
11  Brake Fluid Reservoir Cleaned & Painted.JPG
12  Brake Fluid  Reservoir Mounted.JPG
13  Hose Components for Tank.JPG
14  Hose installed.jpg
15  Attachment to Master Cylinder.jpg

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:39 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

KB5 Front Brakes

Pretty straight forward on the front brake rebuild. I had to buy a large socket for the wheel nuts and a large socket for the front axle bearing lock nut. Previous owner had installed the wrong wheel cylinders. They were automobile cylinders and not the truck cylinders. The Ford F2 truck wheel cylinders are the replacement for the KB5.

Pulled the Budd drums & bearings to expose the brake assembly. It was rusty and parts were frozen stuck. The seller had told my brother that they rebuilt the front brakes. As you can see, doesn't look like it. It does have new rubber brake line hoses.

Pulled everything apart and cleaned & painted. Got everything freed up and moving so the brakes would work as well as the brake shoe adjusters. Used all the old parts as they were OK, not perfect, but they will work. Had to sand inside the drums to get some rust off them.

Put the new wheel cylinders on and then reassembled everything. Repacked the wheel bearings and reused that odd felt wheel bearing grease seal as it looked to be is very good condition.

Put the drum back on and tightened it down. Then adjusted the brake shoes to the drum as the Service Manual tells you to do. Very easy as the shoes ride on a "cam" which you turn to get the correct air gap between the shoe and the drum. There is a small slot in the drum to insert a feeler gauge to dial the shoes in.
I then bled the brakes which was also a test for the master cylinder. I now have front brakes. I am working on the rear brakes which are going very slow at this time.

Front Wheel Cylinders - Step Bore (Larger Bore Goes To Front)

Wagner-Lockheed***************Replacements**************FORD F2 - 1948-1952
KB5*********************************(1956-'57 IHC Truck)********(3/4 Ton Truck)
Step Bore 1 3/8" x 1 1/8"********Step Bore 1 3/8" x 1"*******Step Bore 1 3/8" x 1"
L - #FD5999***********************#FD5997***********************Left -
R - #FD6000**********************#FD5998***********************Right -

1948 KB5 Front Hub Wheel Bearings

Outer Bearing - Timken bearing #1779 - Bore - 0.9375" Width 0.781"
********************Timken race #1729: Outside Dia. - 2.2400" Width - 0.6250 in

Inner Bearing - Timken #26681 - Bore - 1.5625" Width 1.000"
*******************Timken race #26820 - Outside Dia. - 3.1562" Width - 0.8125"
*******************(Compatible Timken bearings that use this race - 26880, 26877, 26878, 26881, 26883, 26886, 26882)

Front Drum - Budd #61584

Brake Shoe Spring - 8 1/4" long, 3/4" Dia. Coil, Hook-to-Coil 2 1/2" each end, Coil Length 3"

Felt Seal on inner bearing - .375" thick, 3.0" OD, 1.56" ID
Attachments
01 KB5 Front Brake.jpg
02  KB5 Front Brake.jpg
03  KB5 Backing Plate.JPG
04  Ford Front Wheel Cyl - fits KB5.jpg
05  Front Brake Shoe.JPG
06  Felt Wheel Seal.JPG
07  KB5 Front Brake.jpg
08  KB5 Front Brake Assembly.JPG
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 743

Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 5:38 pm

Post Mon Aug 12, 2019 5:13 am

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

What a cool truck , and one of the best build threads I've read , dam good job !

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Mon Aug 12, 2019 7:45 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

manicmechanic wrote:What a cool truck , and one of the best build threads I've read , dam good job !



Thanks so much. My brother dropped this off at my house thinking it was "just check a few things and fix anything you think it needs and then I'll have it shipped back up to Rhode Island." I wasn't supposed to be doing all of this, but once I got into it, I kept finding more and more things wrong. So it just snowballed into what you see here. I take a ton of photos to show the before and after as I get each component done and what it takes and the problems I run into. Many parts you just can't go to NAPA and buy off the shelf.

I wanted to wait on posting this build until I got far into it rather than drag it out for the past 2 plus years. I am presently working on the rear "Hi-Tork" braking system, and I gotta say, this is a challenge. Might have been easier to do a late model swap, but I am bent on trying to keep the truck as original as I can when I can.

I still have my challenges ahead, so hope you enjoy and hopefully this documents enough of the truck to help anyone now or in the future who is thinking about tackling such a truck. If the truck body had not been in such a solid condition, ran as good as it does, and had a history to go with it, I would have done a "resto-mod" and put the body on another late model chassis with updated drive train.

Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

Posts: 195

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:22 pm

Post Mon Aug 12, 2019 7:53 pm

Re: 1948 KB5 Railway Express

Emergency Brake Relining.


Photo #1 - The 4-speed transmission, like many older units, has the round drum brake on the back end of it. The locking button on top of the handle was a little stuck and when I checked the brake lining, it was pretty worn down. Got the locking button working real well with a little WD-40 shot down the stick, so the brake lever works as it should.

Read several blogs on the internet on how to reline the brake drum as I have never done this. I did not see any need to send it out for relining as I can handle shooting rivets if need be, although there are plenty of the old rivet tools on Ebay if you wanted to go that route. Others talked of bonding the lining with JB Weld, and still others mentioned brass screws and nuts.

I went with a combination of both JB Weld and brass screws and nuts. Keep in mind that the purpose of the hand brake is just that, a hand brake to use once the truck was at rest. I suppose some drivers used the brake as a supplement in stopping, perhaps with the truck loaded to its limits or going up and down mountains. So I figured my approach would be fine.

Photo #2 & #3 is the original brake band with lining and then the lining removed. I simply ground off the rivets on the back of the band and knocked them through. The lining then fell off. I cleaned up the rust with a wire brush - didn't go too crazy on it.

Photo #4 shows the new brake lining material. The lining came from McMaster-Carr online. The lining can be purchased by the foot, so I measured the old lining and ordered 4 feet of 3/16" thick x 2 1/2" Wide. I did not need 4 feet, but figured I would CYA in case I screwed up and had to redo the job. Once the lining came in, I cut 2 pieces to match the original lining length.

Photo #5 A pot? That's got to be a mistake, right? Since I was going to use JB Weld to bond the lining on the brake band, I needed a pot the same size as the brake drum to secure the brake band/lining to as it cured. Makes sense, right? Pulled a tape measure on a lot of pans and round objects. Finally got the perfect match at Walmart. Tramontina brand 3 Quart Sauce Pan was exactly the same diameter as the brake drum. I removed the handle.

Photo #6. I coated the brake band with JB Weld MarineWeld after reading about all the different types of JB Weld. I then put my cut brake linings in place, wrapped it around my sauce pan, then used the C-clamp to tighten the band around the pan. This does get messy as the clamp pressure oozes the JB Weld out the sides. The linings may even slip around a bit on the JB and you will have to readjust them to get them in their correct position. I may have used just a little to thick of a coating. LOL Don't worry about the excess too much, as once it is cured, you can trim the excess JB off. I let the stuff cure for the week waiting on the next weekend.

Photo #7 is what the new lining looks like after it has been released from its "mold" and the edges cleaned up of JB Weld. Note the JB filled in the rivet holes, no big deal because you will be drilling through these holes.
Photo #8 shows the right angle air drill I bought at Harbor Freight, the wood bit I bought at Home Depot which you can see has a drill stop from Harbor Freight secured around it so the wood bit will only go about 1/2-3/4 way into the new lining. You want a shoulder for the head of the #8 brass screws to sit down onto and tighten/hold the lining onto the brake band with the use of the nut on the back side.

So I first drilled all my rivet holes from the back side where all the JB Weld plugged holes were using a drill bit matching the #8 screws. Rivets used on brake linings have flat heads. The #8 screws are a round slot head. Each screw head was ground flat on my grinder to take out much of the crown. Gotta leave enough material for strength, so you get an eye for how much to grind.

Next up is the angle drill and wood bit. The wood bit is slightly bigger than the screw head because you want the screw head to pull down into the hole you are about to make. If it seems not to pull in correctly, you can grind a little off the edges of the screw head and try again or wiggle the wood bit around - this is not an exact science. With the stop in place on the wood bit, it keeps you from going to deep. The stop didn't fit as well as I wanted, so you can see the masking tape I built up on top of it to keep it from slipping up on the wood bit. Crude, but it all worked out. I drilled all the holes out on the lining side, taking my time and trying to get them straight. Got a couple holes at the wrong angle so had to work the wood bit around to correct it. The main thing is having that shoulder in the lining hole under the screw head so it has something to tighten down upon and hold it to the brake band.

Photo #9 shows my altered #8 brass screws in place and the brass nuts on the back side to draw the screws tight. The trick here is not to over tighten the screws as brass is a little soft and can snap off. Again, you get a feel for it and know when to stop wrenching. Once all the brass screws are in and snugged down, cut off the excess sticking out past the nut. Don't cut the tails off flush with the nuts, but leave a little stick out. Why? I supported the screw heads with a round flat end punch, and then peened over the slight screw stick-out to prevent the nuts from backing off.

Photo #10 shows the finished brake band. Screws are trimmed, peened over, and everything get a coat of black hi-temp paint used for outside grills. Then sand a bevel on each end of the brake lining just as you would see on any brake shoe lining.

Then it is just a matter of reinstalling the relined brake band and following the adjustment procedure found in the Service Manual. Took a number of photos of the emergency brake linkages on the transmission before pulling all the parts off. This always helps when you don't get back to installing the brake band until 3 weeks later. All adjusted up, the emergency brake & lever work like new.
Attachments
01  E-Brake Drum & Linkage.jpg
02  E-Brake Shoe.JPG
03  E-Brake Band.JPG
04  E-Brake Band.JPG
05  E-Brake Band.JPG
06  E-Brake Band.JPG
07  E-Brake Band.JPG
08  E-Brake Band.JPG
09  E-Brake Band.JPG
10  E-Brake Band.JPG
11  KB5 E-Brake Adjustment.JPG
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