OldIHC

MACGIVER, looks like you're coming right along! I like your body work skills on the bed. Looks great! My bed is so rough, I think I'm going to rebuild it from scratch. If I tried to restore it, I'd need about 5 gallons of filler and a ton of patch welding, so I think I'll start with new metal. Besides, I have some ideas I want to incorporate into the bed and tailgate. I don't remember seeing your tailgate?
Keep up the excellent work. Do you have a completion date? You look close.
Bob

Thanks Bob. I 'll be watching for your bed to take shape. No timetable, but I would like to "git 'er done" by spring. Working on my gate now, it's a challenge for sure, took lots of hits over the years. After that, the bed floor, wheels and tires, and a couple of pcs of trim should be about it.

MACGIVER-
Would you tell me please, did you have to adjust the height of your hood? If so, how did you do so? Also, did your truck rear fenders have an L shaped piece that draws them tight at the very rear and bottom? I have a 1948 KB2 Panel that has a hood height issue, ( Uniformly too tall at the cowl ) and has the little L shaped draw bars on the rear fenders, which could stand to be replaced.

Actually, I had the opposite problem with the hood, too low across the cowl. If I remember correctly the hinges have no adjustment built into them, there is a locating dimple that pretty much locates the hinge in one spot. I suppose you could slightly elongate the holes to buy some adjustment, but what I did was pull up on the center line joint area of the hood which raised the ride height if you will of the hood when closed. Keep in mind doing that pulls in the sides so you have to then play with that then too. You, of course would have to do the opposite of what I did. As far as the rear braces, I'm not sure panel fenders are the same as pick-ups so the braces may be different. I'd bet Bedrockjon would know. Mine were U-shaped, two bolts to frame, two carriage bolts to fender. There was a thread on here a while back questioning how they were mounted, some good pic's if that helps. The hood fit was a compromise for me, not really perfect anywhere, but then that was the "norm" back then.

Thank you MAC', sounds like the rear fenders are attached differently, I appreciate your time taken to reply.

Except for painting the rims, all the bodywork is finally behind me. The gate was a lot of work for sure, but overall it came out better that I expected and I'll take it. Starting to look like a pick-up again. I sewed up some chain protectors and got the gate mounted up.

Just beautiful!

Thanks Bob, gonna start on making some rear fender splash guards next, we'll see how that goes.

Thought I would try my hand at making a set of fender guards . There's alot going on in that little piece of metal so I decided to go out and invest in an English wheel, something I always wanted to try. Picked out an old stainless kick panel from a commercial door that was laying around and after making a cardboard pattern, I cut it out using a 4" grinder with a wheel designed for stainless steel. There was a definite learning curve using the English wheel, U-tube was a big help. After many trips back and forth to the fender I was able to come up with the proper shape. I copied IH's design to attach the guard to the fender. Sanded the face up through the numbers, 80 -180-320-600-1000-1500-2000, then hit the buffing wheel. Finished the edges with a soft rubber edge guard from Restoration Specialties.

I'm not impressed...I'm super duper impressed...a first timer using stainless on an english wheel! Wow.
Like you, I've always wanted to try one out but haven't had a project that required one yet. I did get a bead roller and I have used it a few times on my project.
Mac, that is awesome! Beautiful work and I've come to expect nothing less from you.
When can you come over and help me finish mine?
Bob