39 IHC D-15 Oil Change Questions

Hi Guys,

As I stated earlier in my first post, I will be asking alot of dumb questions as I try to get the D15 started. I have a Binder Book on order but do not have it yet. I'm a little embarrassed to ask these but here goes. I have drained the oil and peeled the the oil filter out and have a ordered a case of oil filters. NAPA wanted $20 bucks for one and I was able to find a case for $7 a piece here locally. $84 for 12 which I figured wasnt bad. I figure I will use a few trying to get it cleaned out and then have extra ones. Where do I add the oil back in. I thought one of the two black knob things on top of the motor might be the oil cap but they are on there pretty good. So, I am thinking the oil dipstick tube to add the oil back in? The research I have done on the oil to use is Non Detergent 30W. Is that correct? I see some at Walmart, is that okay to use? The last question I have is a farmer buddy told me to put a bit of diesel gas in the oil pan and bump the starter a couple of times to build up the pressure to push the diesel into the motor and then shut off and it would help drain the sludge out of the motor and pan. I am not so sure that is safe to do. I dont want to ruin anything. Thoughts? Thanks Ed

Hi Guys,

As I stated earlier in my first post, I will be asking alot of dumb questions as I try to get the D15 started. I have a Binder Book on order but do not have it yet. I'm a little embarrassed to ask these but here goes. I have drained the oil and peeled the the oil filter out and have a ordered a case of oil filters. NAPA wanted $20 bucks for one and I was able to find a case for $7 a piece here locally. $84 for 12 which I figured wasnt bad.Locate an oil pan gasket, and pull the oil pan and clean it out thoroughly, there should be a lot of sludge in it. You do not want it to recirculate in the engine I figure I will use a few trying to get it cleaned out and then have extra ones. Where do I add the oil back in. I thought one of the two black knob things on top of the motor might be the oil cap but they are on there pretty good. So, I am thinking the oil dipstick tube to add the oil back in? The research I have done on the oil to use is Non Detergent 30W. You should not have to worry about the 30 wt oil, just use a multi grade to "clean/flush" the engine(my opinion) Is that correct? I see some at Walmart, is that okay to use? The last question I have is a farmer buddy told me to put a bit of diesel gas in the oil pan and bump the starter a couple of times to build up the pressure to push the diesel into the motor and then shut off and it would help drain the sludge out of the motor and pan. I am not so sure that is safe to do.I have used this method before, but, it should not be necessary, or desirable if you have cleaned out your oil pan first. MY OPINION ONLY: unless you are going to totally take the engine apart and hot tank it, you will rarely get all the build up inside the internal passages out. Just do some oil/filter changes (on a short cycle) and move on with life. As has been stated before, today's oils are formulated differently than oils in the distant past. FOR ME I would use the cheapest oil to do my "run and flushes" with, then once you are ready to move on with life, use a preferred brand that you want I dont want to ruin anything. Thoughts? Thanks Ed

Again, These are my thoughts only and I have been know to be out in left field sometimes

The only good advice you have had, so far, is to remove the oil pan and clean it really well inside and out. DO NOT DO THE DIESEL FLUSH!!!! Diesel fuel has next to no ability to lubricant and the risk of damage to bearings is very high from this stupid advice.
DETERGENT Listed in oil does not mean soap and a detergent oil will not clean any better than non detergent oil. The detergent designation says that this oil will resistant sludge build up. If you need to know more, Google it.
If this were my engine, I would add the correct amount of 15-40 to the engine after the clean oil pan is installed along with a new filter. I would change oil and filter again after 500 or so miles then follow the manufacturer guide.
Modern oil is so much better in every way than what was available when your Binder was new. Automobile oil has evolved to accommodate the needs of modern engines and emissions. Not all modern oils offer the best choice, but any of them have been designed to work with the oil of yesterday. 15/40 offers the best coverage of the needs your old engine.
Enjoy.

This would get more responses in the right section.

I for one do not advocate using diesel or any other "additive" not formulated for use in an engines lubrication system. These can have detrimental effect's causing more damage than good. In actuality,using anything to "clean" an older engine without first dropping the pan and removing the probable sludge is not a good idea for many reasons.
My uncle was a mechanic for 40+ yrs.,who worked on gas & diesel engines,even steam locomotives always used Rislone. I use it and never found any product that did a better job.
http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/2- ... ment-100qr

Here's a link to a site & forum that has anything and everything you could (and should) want to know about oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... p?ubb=cfrm

When your truck was built,there was no such thing as "detergent" oil nor multi-viscosity oil either. Detergent is a misnomer,basically they don't really "clean" a thing,they contain additives that suspend a myriad of "unwanted particles" in the oil and carry it to the filter. With non detergent,oil particles that don't get filtered eventually settle,either in the oil pan or someplace else and over time as more particles accumulate (sludge) a blockage can develop.

The climate a person lives in,type of engine and planned usage are more significant as to the grade/type of oil one uses,then to what was used back in the era an older vehicle was built.
My POV only.

If for some reason a pan gasket is not easily obtainable here's an alternative.
http://www.henkelna.com/product-search- ... 7927604225

IH used this in the late 70's for the MV8 engine pan gasket and later the 6.9L diesel,there was no pre made gasket made.A tube of this came in the lower engine gasket set as well.

Gaskets in a tube. It works not too bad when the surfaces are super clean. I'm not familiar with the oil pan, on your engine, but the mating surface should be flat. Later pan flanges, like SBC and others often because wavey from the pan bolts being over tightened.
A word of caution with the gasket in a tube, less is better. If you get a bunch of the liquid gasket inside the pan, it can and will plug the oil pickup screen.
When the block is very clean and the pan flange is flat, a 1/32" layer is adequate.
BTW, look at the Oil pump pickup screen and clean it.
Those old bypass oil filters worked not too bad, and 100% better than nothing.

Thanks guys for the responses and advice. I will not do the diesel flush as I didnt think it was a good idea either. I will look for an oil pan gasket and go that route. Does anyone know where I can get this? Napa? Yes, after I hit submit I noticed I was in the wrong area to post. Thanks to whomever moved this to the correct spot.

Olsen Gaskets should have the gasket
http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/
I like to break the bolts loose with a ratchet then use an small impact wrench to spin the bolts out. Leave one bolt in at the front and rear then hold the pan up while you take the last 2 out. Clean the sludge out and switch to detergent oil. Jim