1928 Six Speed Special


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Post Mon Aug 25, 2014 7:01 pm

1928 Six Speed Special

Well now that i got her home, im not exactly sure whats next!! First thing i need to know is what the levers are for on the steering wheel. One i believe is throttle and the other is for advancing the spark. Not sure how/when to advance the spark? Any ideas? I am going to try and throw some non-ethanol gas with lead additive in it and see what happens. The truck has been sitting for 20 years in a barn. turns over good and things all look good. Any extra information would be greatly appreciated!!!
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Mon Aug 25, 2014 8:31 pm

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

Please drain the old oil and put fresh 15/40 in to replace it. It is very likely that the engine could be destroyed if it is started and run on old oil. If you are able to restrain yourself long enough, it would be a really good idea to take the oil pan off the engine and clean it out. There could be lots of sludge in the bottom. I absolutely love this truck.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Mon Aug 25, 2014 10:17 pm

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

Please as nikkinutshop says just hang 5 for at least 24 hours and we will get you the information about starting it. You can do more damage by not waiting. I am not at home till later if you send me a PM with your email address I will send you some things that will help.
Trevor
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Yard Art
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Post Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:54 am

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

The spark lever is pushed up when you start the truck. After it starts then you pull it down to advance the timing.

There is a big debate on whether to use detergent oil or non detergent in antique vehicles. If it had non detergent in it you don't want to put detergent on top of non detergent. Stick with non detergent until you have a chance to drop the pan and get all the sludge out. then you can switch to detergent oil. Dont be afraid to start it. Jim

Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:11 am

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

Please tell us your reason (s) for recommending one type of oil over another.
There should be no debate where there is understanding. The use of the word detergent is misleading if it makes you think about soap.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Artificial intelligence is no match for real stupidity....
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Aug 26, 2014 7:50 am

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

NNS

This is what is recommended for my 1927 Inter. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... roducts=72

Trevor
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International Harvester Trucks Pre 1940

Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Aug 26, 2014 1:52 pm

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

The problem with sludge build-up is it can block an oil pickup at the oil pump. It is reasonable to assume that much of the sludge that may have been coating the inside of the block will have had enough time to slip into the pan. It was common to neglect vehicle service in the early years. It just might be possible that persons may have had less understanding of lubrication 90 years ago.
I worked for a very large company and it was the company policy to offer training in all things that were somehow related to making vehicle service better and better understood. I, and a few others were sent to an EXXON oil and lubrication class/seminar for a few days. The first part of the training was given by a petroleum engineer who tried to dispel as many myths as he could. I spent two hours on the internet last night. All of the things we were told about were still there.
Something that I discovered was that oil continues to evolve to accommodate the latest and greatest engines. Another little something that has happened is each new oil has improved on the one it replaced and the newer technology was designed to work with the preceding generations of engines and oils it replaced
We were told that a zinc additive should be used on the first break in oil and it will not be necessary to continue to use it with or after the first oil-change.
Contrary to what is commonly held to be true, is this. The old style of by-pass oil filters were doing a fairly good job up until they plugged up tight. It was common for these old oil pumps to have a bypass to prevent over-pressure then and the same is true of a modern engine. Just because an engine has a "full-flow" oil filter does not guarantee that all of the oil will go through the filter on each pass. The volume of oil can be so great that a filter cannot filter it all and oil must "by-pass". Somewhere in the system, most likely in the pump, and often and also in the filter, there will be a by-pass valve. It is easily possible for a good condition oil pump to make enough pressure to compromise (blow up) a spin-on filter.
The petroleum engineer told us that the use of the word "detergent" has caused a lot of confusion, outside of the laboratory. It is not soap. The detergent is in fact an additive that will try and hold small particulate in the oil rather than allowing it to settle out in the pan. I think this is a good thing in combination with regular service. He went on to say that the particulate that is being targeted by the additive is microscopic and very unlikely to cause damage to any rotating surface. The engineer also pointed out that these additives do not last forever. Changing the oil removes the contaminated oil and particulate. Modern oils have additives that control corrosion and are able to change from a cold start to a hot run situation, all in one oil. It is MAGIHC.
I appreciate the old style of by-pass filter because it works not too badly. These filters were designed as an add-on to an existing engine design and did a fairly good job of filtering and did not require the manufacturer to redesign the engine to accommodate a different filter system.
While we are on this subject of filtering oil and full-flow versus by-pass, I should mention that I redesigned the oil system in the 1947 Ford Flathead V8,. in our 1940 Ford. This was to allow for a full flow remote oil filter. The new MALLORY oil pump does not feed the engine directly as it was designed to do. The gallery inside the oil pump body where the shaft from the cam to the pumping gears has been blocked by a bronze bushing. 99% of the oil is blocked from being pushed that way. I machined a new plate for the bottom of the oil pump and drilled and tapped the plate for an ORB fitting. This fitting had to be positioned precisely inline with the original oil gallery passage. the oil goes out the bottom of the pump, through AEROQUIP braded hose to a bulk-head fitting in the oilpan and then on to a remote filter. From the filter, the oil returns to the engine via more AEROQUIP hose and enters the back of the engine block, with another ORB fitting, directly into the original Ford Flathead oil distribution gallery.
It works. Now, I have the option of adding a remote engine oil cooler, if it becomes necessary. The question that I get asked is, "Was this expensive to do?" "Less for me and too much for you", is my answer. I do not do work for anyone other than MAGIHC MIKE and I don't charge him. If anyone wants a number, I am guessing it could top four digits and more if I do not feel like doing it which is 99% of the time.
Attachments
40 ford plumbing.jpg
two of these line are for the filter
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Artificial intelligence is no match for real stupidity....

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Post Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:56 pm

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

UPDATE:
I changed the oil in the motor, cleaned the spark plugs, shined up the points and threw some fresh gas in the cylinders along with a new battery.......and it didnt even turn over twice and it was running after 22 years of sitting in the barn. Now it wont stay running. Can someone explain to me how the vaccum system works? I can keep the engine running by squirting gas into the carb but cant get it to pull the fuel through. Im getting closer to driving her on the road!!!!

THanks for the help so far!!!
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:31 am

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

By "vacuum system" are you referring to a vacuum tank that sets higher than the carb and pulls fuel up from the fuel tank? If so think of a toilet flush tank. The vacuum pulls the fuel up into the tank and the float shuts it off once full. Gravity flows the fuel back down into the carb. Pin holes from rust or dried out gaskets will prevent the vacuum from building up and pulling the fuel uphill. MM
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:25 pm

Re: 1928 Six Speed Special

I remember back on the old site was some diagrams on how it all worked and lots of talk about different ones.

28sss. ? Did you get the emails OK

Trevor
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International Harvester Trucks Pre 1940
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