ACME Beer Truck

Lots of newer cars and trucks have a tube like this behind the dash. It carries wire harnesses and provides strength to certain assemblies.
It won't readily fit in a D pickup I don't think.
I'm going to cut off the bracket that bolts to the steering column. Hopefully it will make my life easier as I install the column.
BTW it's about muffler pipe rigidity. Don't see how it strengthens the cab itself very much.

The pinion or input angle for the rack and pinion steering is basically straight up and maybe a bit to the left.
The steering column exit through the firewall can't be too low or it won't work.
As it is I may have to insert another u joint somewhere in the steering shaft.

My tape measure says the brake booster, clutch master and steering shaft can all live together on the firewall. We'll see.
I can't easily move the clutch master any more to the left.
It's as far left as it will go without removing the inner kick panel.
The brake booster is about 9" in diameter. A tight fit.

My mind boggles when I try to wrap it around your project. This is definitely something way out of my comfort zone. I know you understand what you are doing, so I'm sure you will be successful.
This is my first up - skirt with a Toyota. Nice looking stuff under the sheet metal. It takes me about 2.8 seconds to remember that Toyota is made in USA. I think you do nice work under interesting circumstances.
How do you like your Snap On welder? The body and paint guy who did our Ford has a Snap On welder he uses for light gauge sheet metal. He likes it.

Nikki, the Snap-On welder of course is awesome. I need welding lessons.
If I'm successful this weekend, I'll have operating Toyota-engineered and designed brakes, steering and clutch operation...
ALL in less than a week's spare time!
This is the beauty of a frame swap.
On a "straight-up" "hot rod" project (I love 'em) it can take YEARS for the average home garage car builder to get brakes and steering working. And THEN they're usually a mismatched set from several vehicles.
On a frame swap, using one donor vehicle (in my case '95 Tacoma) ensures electronics, steering, brakes, etc all match and cooperate.
Should make for a nice-running old, old International.
As far as my building capabilities, I'm a "MASH" unit compared to your "Walter Reed Army Hospital"
talents.
I am, indeed, working on things "in the field". Ha!

Good job SG. You make the frame swap look easy because you know what you are doing. I'm sure that there must be an advanced skill set required.
What will you put on the back? Box? Deck?. Boler Camper? Vintage Airstream?

I only use components from one vehicle as much as is possible. Like your project, the engineering is done for me and I just connect the bits and pieces. My posting my son’s L build is to show that an old frame can continue to serve well under upgraded circumstances. We are both showing that there are the options.
Like a journey, there are many steps to any build up. I don't want to get stuck in the "keep it all original " mud. Original may not be an option now and I don't see it getting better any time soon. I am old enough to have driven some of these trucks when they were current. Ford and GM could run circles around them, lasted longer and rode much better.

Clutch master and brake master/booster/ pedal hangers/ pedals all installed. No need to disconnect brake lines or bleed hydraulic lines.
It remains to be seen if steering shaft will have room.
Pedal travel may be an issue.
In that case, I'll pie-cut pedal arms to move pedals closer to driver and provide more travel.

Yes, Nikki, more than one way to make a useful, pretty, driveable old truck.
I'm doing it the way that fits me the best. Inexpensive and fast.
I enjoy a nice restoration also when I see one.
You're fabrication skills (and thinking skills) are amazing! Probably MUCH more in line with what this forum likes overall.
I like to tip the boat a little!
My "beer truck" will have a home-made flatbed for now. Got it out in the back.
And BTW, I only have about $1100 in this truck so far. That includes the tow truck ride home for the D-35.

Just so you don't think I ever screw up, it turns out that my original locations for the clutch master and brake master were not OK.
I had to remove a 6" x6" section of left kick panel near the firewall and move the clutch master left about an inch. This allowed the brake master to fit with booster.
However, on closer inspection, there is not sufficient room for the steering shaft to exit the firewall and connect with the R&P input so that the ujoint at the R&P input is within its working angle.
The only way I can see to remedy this is to raise the position of the brake booster/ master about 3 inches.
Then the exit angle of the steering shaft will live happily with the R&P input.
On the Tacoma the firewall is much closer to the R&P so that is how Toyota did it. Steering just lines up better.
It might be possible on future builds to look into tilting the R&P back a few degrees...
Anyway, raising the brake master will require lengthening of the brake pedal arm so that the brake pedal lines up with the clutch pedal.
I can do that.
I have not addressed the possible pedal travel issues yet.
If and when I lengthen the brake pedal arm, I will pie-cut both brake and clutch pedal arms to give me the necessary travel in order to engage the clutch and stop the truck.
All part of a day's work on a frame swap!
I still have Monday off to accomplish this.

Patching the mistake. I'll grind it flat and paint it white.