ACME Beer Truck

I took some time to mount the "diving board" bracket for the radiator support. It will no doubt need to be shortened before it's all over.
Just for the record, IHC D-2 radiator support to frame bracket bolt spacing is the widest or furthest apart I've seen in this old stuff (Ford, Dodge, GM, IHC). I wonder what their reasoning was...
Also, I bobbed the front frame horn stubs and capped them. No critters gonna live in my frame!

While the radiator is out, time for some bodywork and black paint where it belongs on the bottom of fenders, inner fenders. The grille has some obvious issues. I will attend to those. You can grade my progress. I am no body man. However, I'm fearless.
Also, I will try my hand at "patina-ing" the fenders and grille. The grille will be two-tone as the original truck was.

About 15 minutes with a wooden stick that looks like a big paint stirrer and a dead-blow hammer.

About an hour or so. Oh, the humanity!
Used an eight pound sledge hammer against a 2x4 on the bottom section.

Time for a siesta. It's hot! Entering our third week of scorchers. Breaking records elsewhere?
Just JULY for us...

Smog

Have been watching this build with interest and I must say you are a persistent bloke. Your regulations must not be as tight as ours as we would not get away with half sorry 75% of the changes you have done as all modifications require a engineers certificate to enable registration.

Our local dmv/rego department have just found some problems with a company supplying roadworthy certificates so the have picked 40 vehicles the place has done over the last 5 years and the owners of those vehicles have to take them down for re inspection and if they have been modified since and not engineered they are going to be in big $$$$ trouble.

Trevor

Trevor, I just can't imagine what you go through.
This is CA. Four wheels and an engine is about all you really need. Seats, fenders, windshield all optional. This may be changing, I don't know.
Hot bed of hotrodding for the World is and was just south of me in Los Angeles.
Could not have happened with the stringent rules you have.
I honestly believe my approach is the cheapest and most direct for ending up with a REALLY good, DRIVEABLE, practical everyday vehicle. I'm still waay under $2000 and hope to stay there for the complete build. I only started this disaster in May. Things are moving along WELL.
Asian /American hybrids just don't sit well with some folks. For those of us that work on cars for a living, Toyota Trucks are just unmatched in longevity and usefulness. Soon I will have a Toyota Truck clothed in D series International Beer Truck sheetmetal.
Thank you for following along in my adventures!

Dropped off the 76 year old D-2 radiator at Miller's Radiator in Reedley, CA. Always good for a laugh.
Paul Miller, the owner usually has a few barbs for grown men playing with toys. In this case, ME!
I explained how I wanted a pressure neck on top and Japanese 1 3/8"outlets. In addition, these foreign outlets would be moved to the extreme right top hose and extreme left bottom hose.
I then told my ex-boss Paul I'd be back after lunch to get it! Very funny!
He'll call me when it's done. I suspect a week or two. Great guy!

Got brave enough last night to hazard a guess on engine location and welded a short bead on the top of the trans crossmember and the engine mounts at the frame.
I have a shim of doubled thick plastic acting as a spacer between the oil pan and the modified engine crossmember. If I remove it now it should leave a reasonable space so the oil pan isn't slapping the crossmember.

Smog

I know you are trying your hardest on this but when I see something like the pictures above you just posted I need to say something.


What I see in the pictures is dangerous it might hold it in place but has no penetration to it at all and on a criticality area as engine mounts need to be properly welded.

Trevor