New for me 1924 IHC truck

The L7378 will be a casting number the chassis number should be about half way between the front and front axle.

The only reason i am saying it may have had an engine transplant is that all the early/mid 20;s engines are side valve.

Sorry i still have not had time to put pictures up as it is my busy time for work at the moment.

Trevor

Penrod. I think that your truck is a model 43. This model was made from 1924-1927.
Did you find that number on the top of the left frame rail close to the radiator ? A total of 1,945 model 43 trucks were made in 1924 with s.n. from 501 to 2445. The motor in the heavier trucks was an over head valve motor. I hope that you are having fun with your new truck. Jim G

It might be a model 43. The original owner has found the title but I haven't seen it yet. The number I found "L1318" is on the left frame rail close to the radiator. Maybe it is number 1318 in the mix of 501-2445. I'm working on putting new tires on the front now. Motor does turn over and all the valve move. I'm sure the starter, generator and mag need some help. I have not tried to get the trans out of gear yet.

I finally got the old title and it is a 1924 model #43. I'm still working on the truck. Anyone have any parts for these? Like radiator guard, fenders, hood/sides? What kind of spark plugs does this take? The plugs were out of the truck when I got it. It is still stuck in gear so more work there. Almost ready to put one new tire on the front.

The engine is the same as the McCormick-Deering 10-20 farm tractor with the exception of accessories such as manifold, carburetor, fan, crank pulley, generator, magneto and starter. Clutch internal parts are the same as the EARLY 10-20 tractor with the multiple disc clutch.
Yours has the early style "round' governor housing and open throttle linkage, whereas my 1927 74-C has the newer "square" style governor housing and enclosed linkage.

It was very common for trucks of the era to be ordered with pneumatic tires in front and the solid rubber tires in the rear. Customers just weren't sure that the "newfangled air tires" could carry the load. A lot of these were converted to pneumatic tires later after the pneumatic tires had proved to be durable.

Also my truck and on others of this model line that I have seen the data/serial number plate is on the inside of the firewall directly in front of where the steering shaft goes down through the floor .
Bill

Penrod. I believe the spark plugs are 7/8 thread. You can get online or from NAPA I like Autolite 3076. Take the shifter out of the top of the transmission. Pull it straight up. Hopefully the "stuck" is in the rods that move back and forth in the top of the transmission. They are not in oil and get rust on them. Put a rag under the rods to keep the rust out of trans and clean up the slider rods. When they move put it in neutral and put the cover back on.

Speed truck Bill Good to hear from you.

Jim

Thanks Jim I got those plugs from NAPA and they appear to be correct.

I did get the starter, generator and mag off. They all need lots of work and the mag mount and starter cone has been broke in the past. Not sure what to do with the end of the generator. That material is swelled pretty bad there.

I have looked everywhere for a serial number plate and nothing to be seen. I can only find a stamping up front on the left side of frame. The cab was built by a company in Cincinnati.

I haven't tried fooling with the shifter yet. I assume I would have to take the floor boards up to get access.

Due to the pot metal swelling at the end of the generator you may need to find a relacement. Try an old starter generator repair place. Use a little light oil on the mag bearings like 3 in 1 oil. Take the floor boad over the transmission off and the top cover off the trans. The shifter forks slide on rods, the rods get rusty. Your s.n. is probably L1318 indicating the frame was the same as the earlier model L truck, Jim

I got the transmission moving finally. The rods were rusty up in the bellhousing. I have the valves ground and head it complete. I think I am going to put rings in it since it is already this far apart and clean out the oil pan. Should remove the trans and work on the clutch. It appears to be the same clutch as a Farmall regular. I have one new tire on the mounted on the front so slow progress is being made. I need to take some more pics.